engine turns off with no spark

[95stockauto]

Hi I have a '95 5.0 auto with about 140,000 on it and after driving for 15 miles or more the engine will just turn off. After it turns off I don't have any spark, after it cools i have spark and then it will crank up immediately. I have changed the cap, rotor, coil, and wires.
If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate it.

Thanks Mike

 

[Dr Fildo]

Hey Mike. Welcome to the forum...I just joined myself. And it sounds as if we have the same exact problem. I have a '95 auto with 144,000. Damn thing just dies on me. But mine seems to be intermittent. I also changed the cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. Check out my posts...maybe your answer will be there.

I also read recently, either in this forum or another that the stator can go bad, which is a part inside the distributor. There seems to always be a disagreement as to how easy it is to remove and replace. It involves taking the actual distributor apart. I'm pretty handy, but this car is my daily driver, and I have to have it fixed ASAP so I'm just opting to replace the whole distributor. And I have been told by several people to clean the MAF, which seems to work wonders for a lot of folks, but I haven't done that yet.

You should probably clean the MAF first, as it costs very little compared to purchasing a distributor.

I'm going to try to find the other post with this problem and see if they got it licked yet.

 

[95stockauto]

Thanks for the response. I read the replies to your problem and I was thinking that the distributor could be the issue because I definetly lose the spark. On the '93 and earlier 5.0's they had the module on the front of the distributor that would go bad and leave you stranded but my '95 doesn't have that. I wasn't sure if maybe the '94 and'95 maybe had something like that connected away from the distribtor. I don't think that the MAF sensor will have any affect on my issue since the spark isn't there but who knows. I am going to call around today and price a distributor and see how bad it will be, if it isn't very expensive i will probably go ahead and get one.
If it works i will let you know.

 

[Dr Fildo]

I just got a re-manufactured one from NAPA - $116.00 + 54.00 core charge that you get back when you return the old core. I'm going to install it later today. I'll let you know if this kicks the problem.

I doubt the MAF has anything to do with it as well, but I'm cleaning it anyway. I know that I have never cleaned it, and I doubt that anyone else has either. I've owned the car since brandy new.

 

[Addermk2]

your car DOES have the module that the fox 5.0's had... but its on the passenger side fenderwell, under your intake

 

[ryclef331]

SOunds like the stator in the dizzy. BUT yes, it could be the TFI Module as mentioned earlier.

 

[5litrarag]

X2 for the dizzy...

 

[95stockauto]

I always heard that when the TFI modules would go out that they just went bad and wouldn't work again. Does my problem sound more like the TFI or the distributor itself? I priced Advance Auto parts yesterday for a new distributor and they were $88.00 with a $40.00 core. Any have a price on the TFI mod.

 

[Addermk2]

I have noticed that with the SN-95, it seems alot less frequent for the TFI to go bad. Most times that people have the problem you are having, it ends up being the distributor


but the only way to know for sure, is to test everything

 

[ripper]

SOunds like the stator in the dizzy. BUT yes, it could be the TFI Module as mentioned earlier.

Yupper. Ry's got it. My 95 did the same thing and it was the stator. It was WAY easier to just replace the dizzy.

Good luck

 

[95stockauto]

Does the complete distributor need to be changed or can the stator be changed separately?
When setting the timing on a '95 is there anything that needs to be unplugged like on the '93 and earlier 5.0's.
Does anyone have a recomendation on a good quality distributor to get or is a NAPA or Advance auto generic good enough?

 

[ripper]

You can change the stator on the dizzy but its a PIA. I got the dizzy from advanced for like 100 bux. Get the Haynes manual while your there it will tell you how to do it. You need to unplug one port when you time it. I think its 10 degrees.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=302888&PartType=218&PTSet=A

 

[Dr Fildo]

I changed the distributor this saturday. It was pretty easy. I just looked at how the old one looked (placement, and the notch at the bottom of the dizzy in relation to the notch in the mounting hole). Made sure the crank was at TDC (read Haynes manual), loosened and removed the the hold down bolt and plate with an open end wrench (1/2 in.), and swapped in the new one. Timed it by ear. Running great now. I also changed the ignition coil. That took 5 minutes. The guy at NAPA said it sounded like a coil problem. Got one for $22 at NAPA. So I don't know if it was a coil or dizzy problem, but i figured it was worth $22 extra dollars to not be stuck on the side of the road. Piece of mind is priceless. Total cost of the job was $138.00.

At least it hasn't cut out on me again...yet. So I think I got it licked. :thumb:

 

[ripper]

cool im glad its fixed. Get a timin lite though and time it. With gas at 4 bux you dont wanna be runnin rich lol.

 

[x182dan]

I have noticed that with the SN-95, it seems alot less frequent for the TFI to go bad. Most times that people have the problem you are having, it ends up being the distributor


but the only way to know for sure, is to test everything

thats probably because the tfi has better placement on sn95s its not right on the distributor where all the heat is its over on the fender to stay a little cooler.

 

[95stockauto]

I bought a new ditributor today and am going to install it tonight.
It sounds like it will fix the problem based on all of the posts, thanks for the responses.

I do have one more question. What plug do I need to unplug to set the timing.
On the '93 and earlier there was the SPOUT connector. Does the '95 have that tucked away somewhere?