EXHAUST BACKFIRE

[99GreenStang]

Mod motor would not have more performance and it would cost more because all the fancy wiring and computers . I would rather turn some screws and actually see my car work rather than have a computer controlled car that does it for you , yeah I've had trouble with my car but obviosouly just because I had timing wrong other than that no ? I would do it all over again and I can do this swap for the price of the motor nothing else is required ? Everything I bought was just extras basically . You can drop straight in and be running in a week easy if not less . I'm not a efi guy or tune this or tune that , a carb can perform just as well as efi if you have the right tuning and efi can perform well if you have 3 grand to drop on a system and wire look for 2000 wires ... I wouldn't go back from what I did no way or how especially not to a mod motor , there's some of you boys that live by efi and mod motors well not me I'm not trying to argue with ya man I just had a problem I needed some help with ! If ur happy with ur car and I'm happy with mine I'm great bro ! God bless and thanks for all the helps folks ill post up tomorrow and let ya know how she does ! GOD BLESS !

 

[Tekton1377]

Because it's a pain in the ass to do, more money than it's worth, and you would have had far better performance with a mod motor with half the cost? Yeah, that's why.



:dontknow:

I'll take cool factor over cost effectiveness any day lol.

 

[nightfire]

I'll take cool factor over cost effectiveness any day lol.

What "cool factor"? :huh:

 

[99GreenStang]

What cool factor ? Oh just the one that my swap looks better than most any 308 pushrod carb swap in a new edge and uh the fact my gauges still work ? Uh the fact I have a mans car that you can actually get dirty working on rather than a flux capacitor where you press a button . The list goes on and on my friend . An as for the guy who said I'll take cool factor over cost effectiveness any day THATS MY DOG! I can even do this cheaper than a mod motor it's not as much as you would think at all .

 

[Tekton1377]

^ +1

 

[99GreenStang]

Ok well just changed to the new firing order and she backfired like a shotgun . Something I did notice was this on the distributor cap you notice everyone has #1 on the driver side it's basically in line with cylinder 7 ?? My #1 is on the passenger side in line with 1 . The picture they show it meets all the way across to number 1 , do I have this wrong or ?

 

[99GreenStang]

http://www.mre-books.com/shopmanuals/firingorder.html

 

[99GreenStang]

Well uh ha yesterday thanks to my painted balancer and my obsession with green paint on everything lol I kinda timed it on 10 after top dead center so yeah i think that may have something to do with it

 

[99GreenStang]

Well adjusted timing right to 10 BTDC and it ran smother obviosouly , now I'm trying to adjust the 4 corner idle carb I'm making 7-8 lbs of vacuum . Right now Rpms are hanging some but may have that figured out , it's a little sluggish on the start and seemed like it was loading up , I've adjusted the 4 screws all different now it's achieved highest vacuum .. It's still backfiring out of exhaust drivers only , do I have too much timing not enough ? Or ??? I've got 25 degrees advance and I'm running light blue and light silver spring ! Anyone any ideas ! Plz

 

[castine917]

Start tuning with new plugs. Will be easier to read plugs for what is going on now instead of before.

You said custom cam. That doesn't automatically mean H.O. firing order. It still may have been made for old carb order. Do you have a part number, who made cam, have you called them to find out order?

 

[CC'S95GT]

I have to agree.
Backfiring out of the exhaust means the plug is firing when the exhaust vlv is open. I don't understand why it's only doing it after the car is warm or at higher RPM's.

As just said, verify what firing order the cam is (HO or NON HO).
Start from scratch with the timing. Set #1 on TDC, then stab the Dizzy.

 

[99GreenStang]

^correct . Just for those that are lost where I'm at . Timing is 13 degrees initial and 25 degrees advance . So total timing is 38 degrees . I'm making 7-8 lbs vacuum . And cam must be a Normal firing order because it will not run on h.o I switched back to normal and she fired right up . What I did notice today which I believe I found the culprit ! I was removing my distributor cap from my MSD pro billet I was going to change the springs so that I had the fastest rate of advance to try and get quicker revs . Well while I was doing so I decided to inspect the cap and low and behold the carbon button I've heard it referred to ( looking inside the distributor cap the terminal in the middle that coil plugs on ) where it's supposed to protrude ( stick out ) it does not it looks as if it was burnt off completely and that would cause a random misfire or arching ! I looked into some of the issues that can cause this and apparently a bad ground well guess what today I noticed my gauges and adjustable fan going crazy I had installed a quick disconnect ground on my battery and apparently it was just cheap and defective , I switched back to normal terminal and problem with gauges cutting in and out went away . So my conclusion I believe the bad ground had nothing to do with it but can cause this , reason I say this ? I bought the whole ignition system used and I remember my father telling me the cap looked burnt when I first got it ( another one of those I told ya so ) well I did to bother looking at it ( like a idiot ) and I assume the cap was burnt all along most likely from the previous owner . So therefore I believe my problem is a faulty distributor cap causing arching and misfiring and the spark isn't burning the fuel in the cylinder due to misfire and therefore running it down into the exhaust . Does this sound about right ? Also anyone know of a accell cap that will work on the MSD pro billet ? Or have a cheap one laying around ? Don't really have 50 bucks for one right now ! Thanks for all the replies I believe we all about have this problem tackled ! Please give insight fellow members as to what you think of this ! Thanks !

 

[99GreenStang]

Distributor is correct and today verified it's 100% on TDC !

 

[CC'S95GT]

I figured you had already set tghe firing order over and over but sometimes the obvious just needs to be said.

I bad cap can cause a missfire too. We all assumed that was new too.
Can't help you about the accel cap.
there have been people that have had issues with MSD products. so you might be better off with a standard ford dizzy too.

 

[99GreenStang]

Yeah , kinda disappointing that i paid around 500 for my whole MSD setup not long ago at all , I mean which of course it was used but looked to be in good condition . I guess that's the flaw of online buying though at least it's only the cap right now . The problem I'm having is finding the cap it's a 8852 MSD PRO billet distributor . I have always known MSD to be pretty reliable and expensive as well but you are right I've seen people complaining about rust and having to drill holes in caps and all sorts of stuff it's CRAZY! What distributor are you recommending that I switch too ? I know the clear kinda GM HEI style on EBay for around 30 bucks is a good one because I had one In my 72 mustang fastback gt Olympic sprint edition with 351 Cleveland ! Wish I still had that !! But any recommendations ? Or place I can find the MSD CAP? Also while I've got this going I'm looking to upgrade my heads in a month just to gain power and get rid of the special headers with the gt40p and be able to change my spark plugs without having to remove half the car !

 

[CC'S95GT]

I'd just get the MSD cap from Summit or Jegs to match the dizzy you have. Unless you know it bad. which it doesn't sound like at the moment.

RichV is running P heads and normal BBK unequal shorties. There's only 1 plug he has problems with. He put a 90* boot on the wire and modified the spark plug socket for that 1 plug.
I'm going to be puting P heads on soon and going to try to keep my BBK shorties.

Any alumnium heads will be better than the iron heads so depending on you pwr goal, let your wallet be your guide.

 

[99GreenStang]

Well I'm running the p heads with new 600 lift springs , and proform 1.6 roller rockers and titanium locks and retainers and viton seals . I can't complain for a cast iron head . On the #7 plug I'm running all straight msd wires and summit special p headers , well what I did like how back in the day on the old flatheads they used to just stick the metal ring around the plug itself , I basically cut my wire into where I could do that and it clips over the end and then I slipped the insulated cover over it and have it also covered with a fiberglass cover to prevent burning wires on the headers . Either way to change the plugs on mine there's not a way to make a socket or any kind of box wrench or anything to change the plugs without removing the headers so that's another reason to get rid of them .. That and an aluminum head will be lighter and make a lot more power . Just can't figure out which heads I wanna go with .