Foxbody TerminatorX in an SN-95

[rob351]

Has anyone installed the Fox specific Holley ECU in an SN car? Does it involve any extensive modifications to the harness to adapt? This is pretty much the last piece I need to buy for my build (408W w/ Si trim, TKO in a 95 Cobra).
Thanks!


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[evilcw311]

There’s no gain in using a fox ecm unless your wanting to go away from maf. Only the later foxes were maf and other than that there’s really not a huge difference.


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[white95]

Has anyone installed the Fox specific Holley ECU in an SN car? Does it involve any extensive modifications to the harness to adapt? This is pretty much the last piece I need to buy for my build (408W w/ Si trim, TKO in a 95 Cobra).
Thanks!

You will have no issues using the Fox system. It doesn’t require very extensive modifications BUT that depends on what you’re doing. Are you keeping the AC and such? Leave the CCRM and ECU in place. Simply have to tap into a few power sources (12v constant, 12v switched, fuel pump turn on, etc) and it will run. You’ll need to get with a tuner to go from there. You need to read up on the Holley forum about using distributors vs a cam/crank sensor and coils. LS coils are an excellent option. You should contact @Addermk2 for the cam sensor. He makes a really nice part.

There’s no gain in using a fox ecm unless your wanting to go away from maf. Only the later foxes were maf and other than that there’s really not a huge difference.


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Logan, you’re not wrong. In this case, though, he’s talking about the Holley EFI Terminator X standalone system. It does away with the MAF and runs off manifold absolute pressure (MAP) or “speed density”.

 

[evilcw311]

Yeah I missed the part about the Holley. Didn’t get in until 2:30am and didn’t go to sleep till 4am and I’m already back out and about.

I’m reading about every 3rd word......... [emoji42]


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[rob351]

You will have no issues using the Fox system. It doesn’t require very extensive modifications BUT that depends on what you’re doing. Are you keeping the AC and such? Leave the CCRM and ECU in place. Simply have to tap into a few power sources (12v constant, 12v switched, fuel pump turn on, etc) and it will run. You’ll need to get with a tuner to go from there. You need to read up on the Holley forum about using distributors vs a cam/crank sensor and coils. LS coils are an excellent option. You should contact @Addermk2 for the cam sensor. He makes a really nice part.



Logan, you’re not wrong. In this case, though, he’s talking about the Holley EFI Terminator X standalone system. It does away with the MAF and runs off manifold absolute pressure (MAP) or “speed density”.

Thanks bud! I’m not running AC or heat, just aftermarket fans and a big fuel pump. I read that the factory gauges in the SN will not operate without the Holley ECU for a Fox. It was a while back when I read that, so I’m not sure if or how that issue (if it exists) could be resolved. RE-pinning would probably be necessary.


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[white95]

The stock gauges work off of the factory harness and sensors. The Holley works off of the same sensors but with it’s own harness. You’d have to run TWO sensors per function to satisfy the Holley and the stock gauges, which aren’t known to be very accurate.

There are a few expensive options. The Holley is CAN (controller area network) enabled meaning you can run any gauges and/or dashes that support CAN.. Racepak, AiM, or the Holley digital dashes. If you’re set of analog style gauges, Holley (and others) offer traditional styles gauges that would look great in Florida 5.0’s gauge clusters.



I have the 7” Holley dash and a Steinmann cluster in mine. I took the car apart, again, so I can’t give you any ideas on glare but @ttocs may have some input.



So, I wired my fan to a C6 Fan controller which ramps the fan speed up and down instead of kicking high to low and lessens the sudden amp draw. All programmed into the Holley.

 

[ttocs]

as he said you can get the stock gauges with some work to work but short of the tach/speedo they are not much real use. The dash options can get expensive but at this point your in for a penny and in for a pound.... He and I can help you with the digital options but I am not sure who could help ya here for the stock options.

 

[rob351]

The stock gauges work off of the factory harness and sensors. The Holley works off of the same sensors but with it’s own harness. You’d have to run TWO sensors per function to satisfy the Holley and the stock gauges, which aren’t known to be very accurate.

There are a few expensive options. The Holley is CAN (controller area network) enabled meaning you can run any gauges and/or dashes that support CAN.. Racepak, AiM, or the Holley digital dashes. If you’re set of analog style gauges, Holley (and others) offer traditional styles gauges that would look great in Florida 5.0’s gauge clusters.

View attachment 5179

I have the 7” Holley dash and a Steinmann cluster in mine. I took the car apart, again, so I can’t give you any ideas on glare but @ttocs may have some input.

View attachment 5180

So, I wired my fan to a C6 Fan controller which ramps the fan speed up and down instead of kicking high to low and lessens the sudden amp draw. All programmed into the Holley.

View attachment 5178

Outstanding information, thank you sir! I really like the Holley dash and that trim bezel.

My only concern is that it’s a very low mile (24k) car, and I’d like to keep the mileage correct and accurate. The ‘old school’ in me would like to have operational factory gauges (with corresponding higher quality gauges for monitoring).

It’s nothing that’s out of my skill set, just time consuming. Thanks again!


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[white95]

Anytime, if you don’t mind the additional sensors, I’d go that route. That keeps the gauges and odometer intact. Actually was trying to figure out what to do for my odometer recently and I’ve settled on a separate, aftermarket speedometer that solely reads off the transmission.