Garage Setup

Mic

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I am interested the setup y’all have have to work on your car. Ramps or floor jack and jack stands? Or both? How do I find the jack points on my car? Is it true that it is not good to jack one corner only? Thanks!
 

PinkieT

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I have both ramps and jacks/jack stands. I have jacked up one corner at a time just enough to change the tire or do the brakes, but never long term. The primary, reinforced pinch rail jacking points are located on the rocker panel seam just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rears. These areas have a slight notch in the pinch weld designed for the factory jack or a floor jack. Your owner's manual, if you have one, might show their locations. I would take pictures for you but I don't have my Mustang any more.
 

ttocs

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I have always been jealous of anyone with a lift as I am still rocking jackstands and I thought I was balling getting a nice low profile jack. With the sub frame connectors though it is easy enough to jack one side up at a time so it is not that big of a deal but like I said there is a part of me that when I see a garage with a lift I am jealous for sure.... I feel blessed to have an oversized garage that allows for a large compressor, tool boxes and storage along with enough room for the cars.
 

shovel

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floor jack, jackstands, ramps, cribbing.. I can't believe it took me this long to build the cribbing that would have made a ton of jobs easier in the past.

1780025894273.png
 

shovel

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How do I find the jack points on my car? Is it true that it is not good to jack one corner only? Thanks!

It's always a good idea to use a piece of wood or something similar on top of your jack to spread the load a little when lifting. I generally lift the front by putting a 2x4 on the floor jack and lifting by the center of the K-member, then set the car down on jack stands under the control arms (or under the chassis support points, if working on the suspension)

Officially you're not supposed to jack from the differential but I personally do it, if you choose to also do that the two important parts are don't lift the harmonic damper (the weird square object hanging off the diff) because you don't want to tear the rubber and make it stop doing its job and don't lift by the rear lip where you might accidentally bend the cover.

1780030810739.png
 

ttocs

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how would you change a tire if you can't lift just one corner? with sub frame connectors I can jack one side up at a time using the rails under the seat but that is just because of the connectors. Those points are all fine the only point I do not like to use that everyone seems to think is ok is jacking from the back under the differential. I know most of the regulars here will chime in to say they have been doing it for years with no problem but to me when I imagine the stress put on it as you push from the center, and that is then transferred 3ft to the side where the rear end connects to the car it isn't something it is designed for. Sure they are built tough but now with 20-30 yr old cars it is only a matter of time before it starts to weaken.

Also if you go from the front be sure to get it under the K member and do not use the core support.
 

96blak54

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I made ramps from laminated 2x10 boards just so its easier to get any floor jack under the car. I have to use them for all my cars except for the 4x4 suv's. I roll the front up on the ramps, then I go to the rear and carefully jack up on the rearend pumpkin to get the rear high enough to set the 6ton jack stands on the rear end tubes. Then I move to the front, carefully jack it up at the K-member center to get the front up a tad higher than the rear, place the 6ton jack stands. Then back to the rear again jacking up on the pumpkin to get more height, extending the jack stands higher, then back to the front....again for more height. The 6ton jacksatnds can really get the car up and be very stable.
 
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Mic

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how would you change a tire if you can't lift just one corner? with sub frame connectors I can jack one side up at a time using the rails under the seat but that is just because of the connectors. Those points are all fine the only point I do not like to use that everyone seems to think is ok is jacking from the back under the differential. I know most of the regulars here will chime in to say they have been doing it for years with no problem but to me when I imagine the stress put on it as you push from the center, and that is then transferred 3ft to the side where the rear end connects to the car it isn't something it is designed for. Sure they are built tough but now with 20-30 yr old cars it is only a matter of time before it starts to weaken.

Also if you go from the front be sure to get it under the K member and do not use the core support.
Just so I am clear, when you say sub frame connectors, you are talking about the after market bars that are installed under my convertible, under the seats? And you lift both wheels on one side of the car? I guess by experience you know the balance point? How high will you lift?
 
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Mic

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It's always a good idea to use a piece of wood or something similar on top of your jack to spread the load a little when lifting. I generally lift the front by putting a 2x4 on the floor jack and lifting by the center of the K-member, then set the car down on jack stands under the control arms (or under the chassis support points, if working on the suspension)

Officially you're not supposed to jack from the differential but I personally do it, if you choose to also do that the two important parts are don't lift the harmonic damper (the weird square object hanging off the diff) because you don't want to tear the rubber and make it stop doing its job and don't lift by the rear lip where you might accidentally bend the cover.

View attachment 49911
Thanks for that diagram.
 

shovel

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So you just add layers of the cribbing until you get to your desired height?

I don't think it would be safe to just stack wood by friction and gravity alone under the car, these are nailed and glued together. 1780063167145.png
 

Bronco2Fan

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Quick jack. 6 different vehicles, so it works on them all. Sometimes it's a pain to set up, but worth it if it's gonna be up for a bit.
 

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ttocs

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Just so I am clear, when you say sub frame connectors, you are talking about the after market bars that are installed under my convertible, under the seats? And you lift both wheels on one side of the car? I guess by experience you know the balance point? How high will you lift?
no sub frame connectors are an aftermarket add on that makes the unibody not flex as much. They have bolt in, but anyone I ever talked to said the weld in style is the way to go and what I went with. As I said it makes it stiff enough that it jacks one side up at a time. They are good for improving handling with less flex and often one of the first things people add.
 
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Mic

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no sub frame connectors are an aftermarket add on that makes the unibody not flex as much. They have bolt in, but anyone I ever talked to said the weld in style is the way to go and what I went with. As I said it makes it stiff enough that it jacks one side up at a time. They are good for improving handling with less flex and often one of the first things people add.
Yea mine came with the bolt on. Seems to have good handling. I will keep a close check that they remain tight.
 

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