Harmonic Balancer

Downshift

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Oh one more thing. I forgot to ask if thats all I would need besides the puller? When i look at the balancer its wobbiling pretty good so thats why I wanted to change it.
 

The Green GT

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The puller is the only special tool you need, the rest is just regualr tools. As far as it wobbling, I changed mine a while back because my car was shaking. But when i put the new one on, it still looked like it wqas wobbling. The part that is cut out makes it look like its wobbling. But it really isnt. Chack the timing and if its right then the balancer more than liklely isnt broekn. Or see if there is some rubber coming out between the two peices.

And i think its the 28 oz but Im not sure.
 

Downshift

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My car does shake also. For a while I thought it was just me freaking out about nothing but i read about that somewhere else and thats what got me thinking. Thanks for the help guys.
 

rj95svt

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This is a very common problem on these cars. Mine is bad as well! I'll be fixing it this week.
 

redripper

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If you change the balancer make sure you also get a top dead center stop for piston number one. This will make sure that when you put the new one on that zero is really zero degrees. Do not do the skrewdriver in the hole trick as that is not accurate. The TDC stop will cost about 16 bux from comp cams. Also dont use a bolt as it will damage the piston. Lower #1 into the hole put the TDC stop in crank it with the balancer nut till it hits the stop mark the balancer at the pointer. Crank it around the other way and mark the balancer at the pointer makeing sure that zero degrees is exactly between the two marks if it is you know that is true zero. I faught this issue with my car for over a month till i did this. IF it happens to be off use a piece of paper to mark the degrees on the balencer than transfer it so you know where your new ten degrees is and you are good to go. Trust me this may seem like a lot of work but well worth it I have seen after market balancers off 14 degrees so add your initial 10 degrees and your at 24. Hope this helps.

BRAD
 

OpenRoadRacer

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redripper said:
If you change the balancer make sure you also get a top dead center stop for piston number one. This will make sure that when you put the new one on that zero is really zero degrees. Do not do the skrewdriver in the hole trick as that is not accurate. The TDC stop will cost about 16 bux from comp cams. Also dont use a bolt as it will damage the piston. Lower #1 into the hole put the TDC stop in crank it with the balancer nut till it hits the stop mark the balancer at the pointer. Crank it around the other way and mark the balancer at the pointer makeing sure that zero degrees is exactly between the two marks if it is you know that is true zero. I faught this issue with my car for over a month till i did this. IF it happens to be off use a piece of paper to mark the degrees on the balencer than transfer it so you know where your new ten degrees is and you are good to go. Trust me this may seem like a lot of work but well worth it I have seen after market balancers off 14 degrees so add your initial 10 degrees and your at 24. Hope this helps.

BRAD

why do all of that?? he's not removing the timing chain. there's only one way for it to go on because it has a sheer pin.

when i replaced mine, i just removed the serp-belt and hit the bolt with an impact wrench, pulled it off and then slapped it back together.

never heard of doing all of that for a simple balancer job... and i'm an old man! :lol:
 

OpenRoadRacer

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rj95svt said:
This is a very common problem on these cars. Mine is bad as well! I'll be fixing it this week.

yep, it's because the stock units can't handle the rev's. mine came off in two separate pieces... the rubber was gone.
 

redripper

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I thought the same thing about the the key way and it only goes on one way but the balancer itself was degreed wrong to the key way so zero was not really zero. I have seen this twice now just my .02. I dont care how long you have been around cars or how simple it maybe but is always best to double check. Shit does happen. I thought it would be nice to put that information out there and its really not that much work.

BRAD
 

Downshift

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hey guys thanks for all the info. Just to clearify here. Redripper are you saying that say if I had set my timing to 14 degrees after I installed the new one and it was like you were saying that it would not be 14? Or are you saying the total timing would be off? Still learning about timing and stuff just making sure I got what you said. Thanks again.
 

Hicks

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What in the world is a balancer?
Please teach me!! lol b/c dad was like
Hey you need a harmonic balancer
and now thqat i see this i wonder...
 

rj95svt

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The balancer is the round thing the crank pulley bolts to on the front of the engine. on non internally balanced engines it counter weighted to balance the engine. It also dampens harmonic vibrations. The rubber usually fails between the hub and ring causing the ring to slip and cause vibration and eventually come apart.
 

OpenRoadRacer

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redripper said:
I thought the same thing about the the key way and it only goes on one way but the balancer itself was degreed wrong to the key way so zero was not really zero. I have seen this twice now just my .02. I dont care how long you have been around cars or how simple it maybe but is always best to double check. Shit does happen. I thought it would be nice to put that information out there and its really not that much work.

BRAD

that's cool... i've just never heard of doing that for a balancer. lesson learned! O0
 

SVTGizzi

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the rubber wore out on my balancer too and i had to get the car towed home :'( but it was an easy job
 

redripper

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5.0wned said:
hey guys thanks for all the info. Just to clearify here. Redripper are you saying that say if I had set my timing to 14 degrees after I installed the new one and it was like you were saying that it would not be 14? Or are you saying the total timing would be off? Still learning about timing and stuff just making sure I got what you said. Thanks again.

Right, if the initail timing is off total timing would be off. I am saying that you should double check to make sure that where the balancer says zero you know for sure that it is zero. If you could just throw it on there and everything would be fine Jegs and Summit wouldnt sell timing tape and adjustable timing pointers. It is called zeroing the balancer so that you know for sure your timing is correct. For the half an hour that it would take to do this it is well worth the peace of mind.
 

vbr pete

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ford factory balancers are CRAPOLA.we've spun several off on shop cars from customers who were too cheap to even buy a stock new one

i use the Professional Products ones--there's a stock replacement for actually the same cash as the ford one AND there's an SFI rated one (to 10,000 rpm,certified) for aboot $250.both need an adapter for $13,also from PP,so you can use them on any year/pulley configuration

ANY that's ANY deviation from perfectly flat when the balancer is turning can mean complete engine destruction.the outer ring slips on the cheap rubber inner and throws the whole balance of the motor out of whack.tape 2 lbs of weight to one side of your front wheel and do 100 mph and you'll see what it's like when a bal goes bad :-[
 
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Hicks said:
What in the world is a balancer?
Please teach me!! lol b/c dad was like
Hey you need a harmonic balancer
and now thqat i see this i wonder...

Well I don't know if you kidding or not, but the harmonic balancer is a counter weight that balances the crank. The harmonic balancer that goes on the 'front' towards to the front of car. The other end that supports the crank is called the flywheel. Vibration will kill a engine, hence the balancers.
 

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