Head machining cost

Miltoid

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Does anyone know what a machine shop charges for a valve job these days? I'm talking 2 valve.
 

RAU03MACH

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depends on what state and machine shop
around my area valve 300 if heads are removed

but if i were you id take the valves out myself and lap them
no special machine shop needed ,buy the grit past compound
work the valve in the head valve seat your self till it seals good
test with carb cleaner on valve make sure no carb cleaner passes the valve seat
save that money for other stuff
 

96blak54

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With the amount of head work Ive done on the modular heads, the 2v heads clean up good from a good running 4.6l. NPI or PI heads....it dont matter, either style the valves and seats clean up good with hand lapping. I cant say that about the 5.4l pi heads. For some reason the 5.4l pi heads exhaust valve seat and valve would be pitted to the point id have to cut the seat and grind the valve, then lapping......always lap the valves. My best guess is low octane, low rpm, high miles..... As for the valve guides for either style head 4.6l or 5.4l, I have yet found a valve guide that falls within "suggested tolerance". Typically over suggested by .001". And this is from good running engines with well over 100K miles. Valve stems micrometer out perfect for the full length, but the valve guide is typically over for the full length but consistent full length. Im checking them cold and not hot. Heads being hot, the valve guides probably tighten up a tad and the hot valve stem definitely swells a little

A small investment in tools at the parts store and some adventurous hands on, you could do this work yourself. Itll open up a great hobby for you too.
 
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Miltoid

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I have valve lapping material, whether or not I do that depends on the cost of a proper valve job at a machine shop. It has good compression, so lapping is a possibility. Has bad head gaskets. Man, those 12mm 12 point bolts, on the drive shaft are tight! How do you break them loose?
 

weendoggy

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I have valve lapping material, whether or not I do that depends on the cost of a proper valve job at a machine shop. It has good compression, so lapping is a possibility. Has bad head gaskets. Man, those 12mm 12 point bolts, on the drive shaft are tight! How do you break them loose?
I found that a 12mm 3/8" drive impact socket and short extension (3" or less, to clear shaft) with either a good 3/8" breaker bar or 3/8"-1/2" adapter and 1/2" breaker bar works very good to break them loose. After that it's not bad. On the other hand, I like to use a propane torch to heat each bolt flange area, then loosen them. Much easier because you heat the sealing glue. I also put new ones back in if it's been a long time, and/or use Permatex Orange or another locking product on reinstall.
 
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Miltoid

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I found that a 12mm 3/8" drive impact socket and short extension (3" or less, to clear shaft) with either a good 3/8" breaker bar or 3/8"-1/2" adapter and 1/2" breaker bar works very good to break them loose. After that it's not bad. On the other hand, I like to use a propane torch to heat each bolt flange area, then loosen them. Much easier because you heat the sealing glue. I also put new ones back in if it's been a long time, and/or use Permatex Orange or another locking product on reinstall.
I'll get them nice and hot.
 

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