Ok, well the 347 is in and i'm able to fire her up, but she wants to be at about 22 degrees of timing, which imo is way way too high. I can't figure out what else I can try. At 14 degrees of timing it will take a while to fire up and then the CEL flashes after a few minutes of running and shuts the engine back off after the light flashes a few times. Anyone know what this flashing is? And I can't get a KOER test done since the engine won't run long enough. The other test KOEA? showed me codes for water temp sensor (aftermarket gauge now), egr vavle (taken out), and code 111 which is a check code saying it was good. I dont want to run it at 22 degrees of timing and I've tried to rotate the dizzy three or four times checking for tdc every time. Anyone have any ideas? and yes, i did take the spout out...
help figure out why I can't time it
- Thread starter 5.0kid
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modo
Well-Known Member
what timing pointer / dampener are you using?
i have seen dampeners with the timing marks incorrect before
i have seen dampeners with the timing marks incorrect before
sn95gtvert
Well-Known Member
you can always run with the timing locked out, just keep the spout connector out. time it what what the motor needs and lock it down. it wont advance any more on its own but it will run a solid timing degree.
NXcoupe
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Geeze. no, 23 degrees locked out wouldn't cause detonation it would cause it to run like crap. You have something wrong, the check engine light doesn't turn the thing off, it dies because something is wrong. If you removed your temp sensor, your computer is not going to have a signal of engine temp and will go into limp mode. You should have removed the temp gauge sender, not sensor, to put your temp gauge in. The temp sensor is a two wire sensor in your heater tubes. The one for the gauge is a single wire sending unit that is a thermistor.
So you need to find out what balancer you used, and make sure your timing light is hooked up to the first cylinder on the passenger side's spark plug wire. Don't laugh, I've had experience technicians do this, it's easy to do.
Now, you have not given much info as to what the actual issue is, but i will venture to help you out as you post more info up. You MUST fix the temp sensor issue. It MUST have a reading for the computer to work and not be in limp mode. The EGR is not a biggie. It will not go into limp mode over that, but you will want to get a chip with that turned off in the tune so you get your max power and performance. Hope all this helps.
So you need to find out what balancer you used, and make sure your timing light is hooked up to the first cylinder on the passenger side's spark plug wire. Don't laugh, I've had experience technicians do this, it's easy to do.
Now, you have not given much info as to what the actual issue is, but i will venture to help you out as you post more info up. You MUST fix the temp sensor issue. It MUST have a reading for the computer to work and not be in limp mode. The EGR is not a biggie. It will not go into limp mode over that, but you will want to get a chip with that turned off in the tune so you get your max power and performance. Hope all this helps.
thanks nx coupe. Its hard to describe since I'm back at school now. But every time the CEL flashes, it will die. Thats why I was thinking it was something to do with that. I will def get the part number tonight when I call my dad and for the temp sensor, I got a mechanical one so i ended up replacing the stock part that goes into the lower intake for the new piece that goes to the new water temp gauge. Should i just replace the old piece then? Or how can I run a mechanical gauge?
I will also be getting a tune once its running so the EGR code will be fixed.
I hope this gives u a little more info. when I put it at 14 degrees of timing, it takes a while for it to start up and i have to pump the gas. The time I had it around 22 degrees (it was too bright to see the light outside so i moved it into the garage at the timing it seemed to like) it ran much better and didn't die from what i remember. As i said, it will run for a little while then the cel flashes a few times and it dies. I read someone say that 15 degrees was where their lunati 5012 cam liked to run at, but this one doesnt seem that. And yes, i did make sure i was on top dead center and first plug when timing. I checked that four times...
here are the stats on her
347 stroker
holley systemax intake, ported
heavily ported windsor sr heads
lunati 5012 camshaft
75mm fox style throttle body
about 9.5 to 10:1 compression
use 91 octane gas
I will also be getting a tune once its running so the EGR code will be fixed.
I hope this gives u a little more info. when I put it at 14 degrees of timing, it takes a while for it to start up and i have to pump the gas. The time I had it around 22 degrees (it was too bright to see the light outside so i moved it into the garage at the timing it seemed to like) it ran much better and didn't die from what i remember. As i said, it will run for a little while then the cel flashes a few times and it dies. I read someone say that 15 degrees was where their lunati 5012 cam liked to run at, but this one doesnt seem that. And yes, i did make sure i was on top dead center and first plug when timing. I checked that four times...
here are the stats on her
347 stroker
holley systemax intake, ported
heavily ported windsor sr heads
lunati 5012 camshaft
75mm fox style throttle body
about 9.5 to 10:1 compression
use 91 octane gas
rz5.0
Legend
have u tryed 180 from there and stabing it again. just a thought
NXcoupe
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If it's running it's not 180 out. Well, what TPS sensor did you use? And how did you connect the Fox style to the sn95 harness? Also, did you adjust the idle screw on the throttle body to set your idle up? What injectors are you running, what maf are you running?
Well my dad hasn't found the box for the dampener yet, but I used a new fox tps spliced to the sn95 harness and checked the voltage to .985 and yes I adjusting the idle screw. 30lb injectors and a brand new pro-m maf calibrated for 30's. I am thinking I may end up renting one of the car trailers from uhaul and actually take it to a shop finally. I just wanted to see if anyone can lead me in a direction before spending more money since i have time till i get back to working on it.
NXcoupe
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So are you sure you wired the TPS up correctly? Just asking, the color codes are completely different. I am thinking the balancer is off or you have a vacuum leak somewhere. so are you certain you have the temp sensor in the heater core tubing still?
