Help with top end list

[ivan12]

A few weeks ago I had enough cash to either buy the TFS top end kit or the V-3 Vortec but decided to buy a truck. The truck is awesome and all but I still want to do the top end on my 95. I want to compile a list of the stuff I'll need (every nut and bolt, gasket, etc.) but this time I want to go with the smog legal AFR 185s, and a custom grind cam. I have a fresh 91 302 block that I want to use since the one in my car now has low compression on a couple of cylinders. I also have a mildly ported eddy upper and lower RPM 5.0 intake with elbow and a eddy 70mm throttle body. I need help making a list of everything else I'll need or good stuff to replace/upgrade while the engine is out. Like what head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, what timing chain set, what roller rockers, basically all the bits and pieces so I wont have to wait 2-3 days on this and that to arrive everytime I hit a speed bump. If it matters, the car is going to have to be street legal and for the time being there are no wild plans to upgrade later, so I don't need big parts to grow into down the road. Thanks for the help

 

[rz5.0]

felpro 1011-1 head gasket.
felpro 1250 intake
felpro 1415 exaust manifold
felpro 1613 valve covers
new intake gaskets for what ever you have
Head Bolt Bushings, 1/2 in. to 7/16 in ( TFS-51400419 ) cheapest i found good quality.
measure for push rods make sure they are harden
rockers to many to pick i went with comp cams pro magnum
your going to need tall valve covers so might as well get a intake spacer.if you get stud mount . also upgrade to 7/16studs.
TFS-51478520 timing chain its what i got. there is cheaper and still good quality
i also got new lifter not sure if you want to reuse your old ones.
while your there change your vacuum lines.
with 185s you prob have to notch the pistons unless they are after ma.rket and have larger valve relieves

 

[Rice_slayer]

Just a heads up, figure up the costs of everything then add $1000, that's usually how an engine build goes, believe me .

 

[ivan12]

That's what I'm trying to figure out, trying to get ready for all the nickel and diming. The money although tight isn't what bugs me so much, it's having to stop everything and having to go to Autozone (which I hate) to go and hunt down parts. Or even worse having to special order stuff, I guess I'm just impatient like that.

 

[Naptown_Stang]

Just a heads up, figure up the costs of everything then add $1000, that's usually how an engine build goes, believe me .

Believe him. Something always goes wrong. Like your compressor explodes by your friend and you have to call an ambulance. Thats 1000 bucks right there.

 

[Rice_slayer]

Patience is the best way to do it, although not the preferred way lol. I had my stuff priced for like $4800cnd including shipping, final bill was closer to $5600-5800 due to various parts being needed and duty fees hurting me, but that's because I live in the great north.

 

[wannaboost94gt]

+100000000000000000000

 

[94 DropTop]

Take you time and make sure your not rushed.

 

[LAFENATU]

Here is what I use everytime I do a H/C/I swap whether it be my car or someone elses. Always, always, always use the Fel-Pro rubber Perma-Torque gaskets, not the cork garbage. The Perma-Torque is a little more expensive but they seal better and are well worth it.

- Clean the heads throughly, make sure there is nothing in the ports (foam/packaging material etc.)

- Fel-Pro 9333PT-1 Head Gaskets (AFR website says 1011-1 but after speaking with AFR, you do NOT need 1011-1's, that is directly from AFR.)

- Fel-Pro 1250 Intake Gaskets

- Fel-Pro VS13264T Rubber Valve Cover Gaskets

- Fel-Pro OS34508R Rubber Oil Pan Gasket (No need to drop the pan all the way, just the front. Cut the gasket to fit the front and use Hi-Temp Black Silicone RTV to seal it)

- Mr. Gasket 5930 Ultra-Seal Header Gaskets (I've had the best luck with these.)

- New 3/4" long header bolts

- Edelbrock 7233 Performer/Performer RPM Intake Manifold Gaskets

- One-Piece Hardened Pushrods (No ball top rods, I prefer Comp or Manley)

- No need for new lifters unless yours are extremely worn.

- 3/8" Stud mount rocker (1.6/1.7 based around your cam selection)

- Fox valve covers

- Melling Double Roller Timing Chain (I got mine from Pep Boys for $30 GET ONE for a Fox, not a 94/95)

- ARP Head Bolts 154-3601 or Head Studs 154-4201
(No need for ARP Sleeves for the heads if your using bolts. ARP head bolts have a tapered section towards the top that locate and acts like a 1/2" bolt and I have done this multiple times with zero issues.)

- Gasket remover/razor blade and lots and lots and lots of brake cleaner. Clean everything off as much as you can...when it looks clean and good - clean it more.

- 2 Ford FLA-1 oil filters and 10 bottles of oil. All said and done, I fill it and run it for about 20 minutes. Then I drain it and do another oil change and it's good to go :thumbsup:


I'm sure there is something missing and I'll edit this when I remember lol :laughing4:

 

[Rice_slayer]

^^ What he said, DON'T go with cork gaskets, they suck s***! I used the cork gaskets I got with my trickflow valve covers, things constantly seep oil, even after re-tightening every 2-3 weeks they do. When I'm bored and have the time/patience to do it, I'm ripping the covers off to put rubber gaskets in.

 

[LAFENATU]

^^ What he said, DON'T go with cork gaskets, they suck s***! I used the cork gaskets I got with my trickflow valve covers, things constantly seep oil, even after re-tightening every 2-3 weeks they do. When I'm bored and have the time/patience to do it, I'm ripping the covers off to put rubber gaskets in.

Not to mention they are reusable. :icon_rr: