how hard to install springs

[SRT Handz]

the only thing wrong with the mustangworld write-up is that they remove the strut from CC Plate at the top. removing the 2 bolts at the spindle to remove the spring is a much better way.

you will need a 24mm Box End wrench to do the install

Car's in the midwest have those bolts rusted pretty thoroughly, really sucks.

my car was from IL and they were rusted bad. even if they take muscle it still easier than removing the CC plate. 24mm Box end wrench is BIG and makes getting torque to break the bolts easy

 

[reivaxtorres]

the only thing wrong with the mustangworld write-up is that they remove the strut from CC Plate at the top. removing the 2 bolts at the spindle to remove the spring is a much better way.

you will need a 24mm Box End wrench to do the install

Car's in the midwest have those bolts rusted pretty thoroughly, really sucks.

get the box end wrench, some PB Blaster or wd-40, soak it up real good, and then use a rubber mallet or metal mallet/hammer to break it loose. dont hit it too hard so you dont break the wrench.

 

[SRT Handz]

the only thing wrong with the mustangworld write-up is that they remove the strut from CC Plate at the top. removing the 2 bolts at the spindle to remove the spring is a much better way.

you will need a 24mm Box End wrench to do the install

Car's in the midwest have those bolts rusted pretty thoroughly, really sucks.

get the box end wrench, some PB Blaster or wd-40, soak it up real good, and then use a rubber mallet or metal mallet/hammer to break it loose. dont hit it too hard so you dont break the wrench.

i beat on my craftsman tools as hard as i want, even using screwdrivers as Pry Bars.

Gotta love craftsman, if you break a tool you can just take it back to sears and get a new one for free :santa_afro:

 

[OnyxCobra]

Installing the front springs is the second worst job I've done on my car behind the fuel pump. I did them using the ball joint method, works well. It's just a PITA sometimes to get the spring in the perch evenly on both sides when you're messing with the isolators too.

 

[Bluextc]

Well, I was going to attempt it, cause the husband agreed to be on standby and help where needed, but it looks like that's out the window. They'll get here probably tomorrow, and I'll just hold on to them until spring, I think. I did a few simple things to the car myself (shifter install, tb and plenum install, and rear bumper cover), but that's it, so I'm thinking maybe it's too much...

 

[gt96stang]

Eh, I had done mine with a buddy at the hobby shop on base with air tools to make it go as quickly as possible... And spray them all down with some PB before hand..

http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring.html

 

[gt96stang]

oh, and I did the shocks at the same time as well.

 

[lrall]

Well, I was going to attempt it, cause the husband agreed to be on standby and help where needed, but it looks like that's out the window. They'll get here probably tomorrow, and I'll just hold on to them until spring, I think. I did a few simple things to the car myself (shifter install, tb and plenum install, and rear bumper cover), but that's it, so I'm thinking maybe it's too much...

Just do 'er, why is the husband helpin out hte window? no permission again? Its not hard, get your hands dirty, do shocks at the same time imo

 

[bany95]

The reason some guys (or gals) like to remove the shock from the CC plates rather than from the spindle is because it doesn't affect your alignment. When you remove the shock from the spindle, you're "supposed" to get an alignment.

If you're concerned about a spring flying out, just take a short piece of chain (real chain, not the decorative crap) and run it thru one of the coils and then back to the frame (or control arm), and attach it with a threaded link (or some other good mechanical fastener). But like it was said previously, in the end I had to pry my springs out.

I have a tendency to wreck ball joints, so I would include new joints in my budget.


Happy Wrenching

 

[SRT Handz]

The reason some guys (or gals) like to remove the shock from the CC plates rather than from the spindle is because it doesn't affect your alignment. When you remove the shock from the spindle, you're "supposed" to get an alignment.

You have the information Mixed up. You remove from the spindle if you dont wanna mess up the alignment. spindle has nothing to do with alignment, but the C/C Plate does

 

[bany95]

The reason that you remove the top of the shock at the CC plates, is because there is very little clearance between the hole in the top of the CC plates and the shaft on the top of the nut, and it is also a long ways away from the ball joint (the pivot in this case). What little error you get here will likely not affect the alignment (but you can't adjust or remove the CC plates).

The holes in the shocks (and spindles) are oversized by a fair ammount (manufacturing tolerances), and because the holes are so close together it is very easy to change your camber with these bolts (This is why some cars use eccentric bolts here to adjust the camber).



From the MM instructions for setting bumpsteer...

"To preserve the alignment that has been set, do not remove the strut to spindle bolts. Instead, loosen the lower ball joint nut until the top of the nut is flush with the top of the ball joint stud."

"To preserve the alignment that has been set, do not remove the strut to spindle bolts when removing the coil-over springs. Instead, disconnect the spindle from the lower ball joint as in steps 6-8. Remove the strut top nut and remove the strut and spindle as an assembly. Reassemble the front suspension without the springs to continue."


I'm not trying to pick a fight, just clear up a common misconception.