Hurst Quarterstick shifter install

TTSaleen

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So I've broken the last 2 T56 viper-spec transmissions I've had and finally said, "Enough is enough!".
I have ordered a fully manual valve body 4R70W.
Part of the conversion involves changing my shifter (from the old Pro-5.0).

After researching many threads and sites, it was determined that a ratchet type shifter is NOT good for long term use with manual valve bodies.
The issue is that the device and cable can get out of adjustment and cause the trans to not set securely into gear. This can lead to premature transmission damage.
For that reason, I decided to go with a gated shifter and ordered the Hurst Quarterstick part number 3160009.
This model fits Ford C4 and C6 models with forward pattern valve body - P R N D 2 1.
This is perfect for my combo as the Overdrive is activated by a switch!

Parts I used for this swap -

1 - Hurst Quarterstick shifter - P/N 3160009
1 - Hurst backup light switch (needed extra as the shifter only comes with a neutral safety switch)
1 - 16 gauge sheetmetal cut to 6 inch wide by 9-1/4 inch long (this covers hole in floor)
4 - 1/4-20 by 1 inch long bolts
4 - 1/4 inch lock washers
8 - 1/4 flat washers
1 - 3/4 inch heater hose cut 3 inches long and split down the middle (this covers the shifter cable thru the car floor)
3 - feet of speaker wire (14 gauge) that connected neutral safety switch from shifter to connector at clutch pedal
2-1/2 - feet of window/door insulation (to put on bottom of shifter plate to seal out elements, noise, dirt)


Tools I used -

Dremel tool
Cordless drill
Assortment of drill bits
Large uni-bit (used to drill large hole in car floor for shifter cable to exit)
sand paper (100 grit and 1,000 grit)
Flat black spray paint
Spray Carb/choke cleaner (to clean sheetmetal of all oil/dirt before painting)
Socket set
Side cutters (dikes) used to trim plastic surround to fit shifter
Razor (used to cut threads to allow leather boot to come apart without tearing leather)


Pics -


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TTSaleen

TTSaleen

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that looks sick!!! How's it feel :)

Thanks. Pretty good so far!
I've got to wire up the reverse lights and make a set of switches for my Overdrive and Lockup functions.
Once I get the trans installed (hopefully next week), I will be able to adjust the shifter cable and make it all work!
Right now it feels great, but there is no resistance on the cable so it may change slightly once connected to the transmission.
 

g36 monkey

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That was what I was thinking, just wanted to be sure. That ought to be wicked!! :D I gotta go to north carolina and see what the monster can do :)
 

MustangChris

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looks great. I would ahve personally used vacuum tubing around that hole, or a bushing, instead of the clump of heater hose.



bad ass shifter tho. i bet that will get the ladies!
 
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TTSaleen

TTSaleen

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looks great. I would ahve personally used vacuum tubing around that hole, or a bushing, instead of the clump of heater hose.

What you may fail to realize is that there are 2 pieces of metal that are drilled through for the cable to exit.
Having a made-to-fit bushing would be nice, but I haven't been able to find anything local.
The hose works perfectly fine for now and it will be trimmed slightly to be flush before I install the trans.

Ryan
 

MustangChris

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hm. what two peices of metal? i ran my wideband electronics through the tunnel and only had to cut through one peice of metal.

We sliced open vacuum tubing and glued it onto holes (even some factory holes) to make a soft buffer for wires, all over the place.

under the dash, in the engine bay, running power through the interior, in teh spare tire area...

I dont udnerstand where the problem is... :-( i just wanna make your car sexxi. thats all. :-(
 

Musturd

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this is awesome at first sight of the shifter... i was wondering if id like it but you made it look great in there
 

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