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Message: <blockquote data-quote="fastgtfairlane" data-source="post: 538673" data-attributes="member: 9545">i would love to know where all of you are getting your information from. if your shop teacher is telling you that you should never buy a junkyard engine and rebuild it and make a good engine out of it or make it last then they shouldnt be teaching kids how to work on cars plain and simple. building an engine is not rocket science. what do you think a reman engine is?. i built my first 302 in highschool at 17. i bought new pistons, hastings cast rings, clevite bearings rod, cam, main bearings, new gt40p heads. i took the block to a machine shop and had them replace the cam bearings. kept the stock cam, although i wish i coulda replaced it. and i got arp rod bolts. spent lil over 900 bucks on total cost including gaskets and engine paint. engine ran strong, put it my 68 fairlane, with longtubes, eddy performer intake, holley 6410 750 vac secondary carb, c4, 9inch w 3.25 gears into the low 9s in the eighth. it was no rocket ship by any means but it ran good and i did it all myself. i was so stoked cause i did most of the work myself. 5.0 mustangs are very easy to work on. for the op, i would recommend just a 306 build. stock internals will handle some decent power. seen many put a blower on a stock short block, not to mention countless hci setups goin on, all done with a stock shortblock. get yourself a factory ford shop manual and study it over. use it a guide and it will explain how to check your oil clearances for the bearings, your ring gaps, torque specs. make sure you have a decent torque wrench in hand. i recommend the clicker torque wrench. you can use plastigauge to check your clearances on your bearings. take ur time and triple check everything. the first time you hear it crank, it will definitely put a huge smile on your face.</blockquote>