IMRC error?

pmot

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Check engine light came on two weeks ago. I got paranoid and started driving it easy and after about 75 miles it went off. I got on it semi-hard acouple days after and it came back on. So I took it to auto zone to have them check it out.
This is what the computer said:
Intake manifold runner control (IMRC) input error bank one
ECM has detected an incorrect IMRC signal outside expected range
Probable causes
mechanical condition
circuit control error to IMRC valve (vacuum or electrical)

Can anyone tell me more information?
Thanks.
 

LS1KLR

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If they have never been cleaned then its likely the carbon has them gunked up. Pull the intake of this weekend and scrub them with carb cleaner. It took me about 4 hours to do everything.
 

danielson631

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would by any chance SEA FOAM be able to clean out some of the carbon buildup, on the IMRCs?
maybe you should buy a can and try that before you pull apart your intake.

i have mine ziptied open bc the module is bad. doesnt seem to hurt performance at all. infact the butt dyno approves of it
 

LS1KLR

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danielson631 said:
would by any chance SEA FOAM be able to clean out some of the carbon buildup, on the IMRCs?
maybe you should buy a can and try that before you pull apart your intake.

i have mine ziptied open bc the module is bad. doesnt seem to hurt performance at all. infact the butt dyno approves of it

As long as its tuned for them to be open its ok, but just hurts the MPG. If you dont have its tuned the timing is off until 3,200rpm.

I dont think the sea foam will get all of it. It was a pain in the ass to clean with a wirebrush and carb cleaner.
 
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pmot

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Thanks for your help.
I have one more question. The IMRC is activated electronically right? The guy at autozone thought is wasn't opening because of a vacuum leak. With that in my mind I tried to listen for one and thought I heard it but I don't know why it would be vacuum actuated.
 

danielson631

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its electronic. there is a module that opens and closes it with two cable attached to it. mine is bad thats why i have them tied open.
 
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pmot

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What do you mean yours is bad? Be more specific please.
I don't really think it could be carbon build up. It only has 90,000, and on the intake side?
 

danielson631

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IMRC_Assembly.jpg


the computer that controls the IMRCs is toast. dont know how it happened. they would remain close above 3200rpms. so i tied them open with zipties.

my CEL is on bc a few different reasons, this being one of them. thats why i just pulled the bulb until i get them tuned out lol
 
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pmot

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I took it into ford and they said it failed. That weekend the check engine light went off and hasn't came on since. The dealer could not find the part so does anyone know where I can get one?
 

98_Sactown_Cobra

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pmot said:
I took it into ford and they said it failed. That weekend the check engine light went off and hasn't came on since. The dealer could not find the part so does anyone know where I can get one?

Bad news is you cant get them anymore. Ford doesn't make them...and being an SVT product there was a limited number of them made anyway. The joy of having a special issue car. lol The IMRC control valve opening at 3250 rpm was a bad design and idea by Ford. Plain and simple. SVT soon solved the problem with a different design on subsequent models, but 96 to 98 this is what we have. Even if the module is late opening the secondary values even a fraction of a mili second it will trip the check engine light error codes your getting. Sucks I have been there.

There is a solution though. Two options. 1. You can try and find a used IMRC control module somewhere......I ocasionally see one on ebay or some times if a auto dismantler has a 4.6 32v Cobra core motor then you can have them pull one out of there. Problem is you don't know for sure if THAT one is working or how many miles the one on ebay has left in it before it fails and your right back in the same boat. 2. Second option is to install the IMRC delete plates which elimiates the need to have the servo based control module that flips open the secondary values above 3250rpm...thus elimiateing the need to find and part that is just going to go out again and again. Technically you will loose a little ... very lil low end and your check engine light will remain on....unless you then pay and have a cutom tune done by a quality tuner in your area to make up for the fact that all four valves will be open all the time. The tune will permanately turn off the error code (so you don't have to worry about smog) and also will get you back the lil bit of torque you lost. Some say you need to put in gears to make up for the low end.....I don't agree with this. If you get a quality tune.....you don't need gears. The tuner I went to actually netted me more torque and HP about 10 each to the rear wheels after the IMRC delete.....just find a good tuner and you will be ok. The torque counter in the seat of your pants will be more then happy.

The second option is not a cheap fix.....but when you look at the cost of time and money in searching and tearing down your engine over and over again to replace the soon to be faulty IMRC Control module....it makes sense to do it right and do it right the first time.

I guess third option would be to zip tie open the secondary valves and then get a tune...that would save you some cash?
 

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