in search of 300 RWHP
- Thread starter lordgufi
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NXcoupe
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Yes, I agree with you, your cai probably netted you 2 to 5 hp.
On another note, MD's hp numbers can be manipulated. Didn't know if you guys were aware of that or not. Most times if left factory stock, they are very conservative, but that just makes the shop look bad when one of their customers goes to someone that has a DynoJet and makes 10% more power. So what a lot of guys do is go in and change a parameter and it shows more power. I'm not saying that's the case here, I'm just speculating. I looked at every dyno manufacturer down at PRI and talked to all the reps. I was leaning towards a mustang dyno(MD), until I learned there was a user programmable factor that allowed you to change the hp readings. I ended up going with a DynoJet because other than changing the factor(sae, std, etc) you can't change what power it shows. And anyone that looks at it can see what correction factor was used. I could be wrong on this, but I spent a lot of time speaking to these different manufacturers because over 50k investment gets me really serious, really quickly. I have a load bearing DynoJet 224XLC, if you are close, I'll throw it on there for free to see how close the two dyno's are. I would take it to another shop with a different dyno, just to confirm the power output. That's just me talking, I am very skeptical, which makes me a good engine builder and overall mod guy. I have quite a few mod customers that are putting out 300 or over hp on mild setups, so I know this is realistic, just wanted to be able to compare apples to apples.
On another note, MD's hp numbers can be manipulated. Didn't know if you guys were aware of that or not. Most times if left factory stock, they are very conservative, but that just makes the shop look bad when one of their customers goes to someone that has a DynoJet and makes 10% more power. So what a lot of guys do is go in and change a parameter and it shows more power. I'm not saying that's the case here, I'm just speculating. I looked at every dyno manufacturer down at PRI and talked to all the reps. I was leaning towards a mustang dyno(MD), until I learned there was a user programmable factor that allowed you to change the hp readings. I ended up going with a DynoJet because other than changing the factor(sae, std, etc) you can't change what power it shows. And anyone that looks at it can see what correction factor was used. I could be wrong on this, but I spent a lot of time speaking to these different manufacturers because over 50k investment gets me really serious, really quickly. I have a load bearing DynoJet 224XLC, if you are close, I'll throw it on there for free to see how close the two dyno's are. I would take it to another shop with a different dyno, just to confirm the power output. That's just me talking, I am very skeptical, which makes me a good engine builder and overall mod guy. I have quite a few mod customers that are putting out 300 or over hp on mild setups, so I know this is realistic, just wanted to be able to compare apples to apples.
NXcoupe
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That made me LOL! No, at my shop which is in Dayton Ohio. Sorry, I get to talking cars and forget where I am, which is why I get to talking cars. lol.lordgufi said:
Something is not right. My GT made 219hp/264tq on it's first and only dyno run, with just PI intake, PI cams. Stock everything else. You only made 29hp more with PI heads and Hitech stage II cams. I think something is really wrong with your setup. Timing is off or something.
the cams are properly timed that much i know but i do think that the degree is off a bit
I marked the cogs and chains and just aligned every thing that way. so i know as far as being on the right tooth they are correct
i also know that they are at least timed correctly or at least very close due to the way the dyno graph shows the power.
the car is Much faster than before i mean hell on street tires alone i pulled .5 seconds in the 1/8th off my time slips. and that was on a MUCH hotter day than the time i ran before.
I think imma just keep trying to go faster and ignore my numbers for now. i think im obsessing over something that i shouldn't be. I do want to see if the car is making more power with more timing how ever and i want to push it further with timing/fuel. aside from that i should at least be able to get close. I know i need a bigger TB and Plenum but i should have still made more power than 250ish i was honestly hoping for 275-280
I marked the cogs and chains and just aligned every thing that way. so i know as far as being on the right tooth they are correct
i also know that they are at least timed correctly or at least very close due to the way the dyno graph shows the power.
the car is Much faster than before i mean hell on street tires alone i pulled .5 seconds in the 1/8th off my time slips. and that was on a MUCH hotter day than the time i ran before.
I think imma just keep trying to go faster and ignore my numbers for now. i think im obsessing over something that i shouldn't be. I do want to see if the car is making more power with more timing how ever and i want to push it further with timing/fuel. aside from that i should at least be able to get close. I know i need a bigger TB and Plenum but i should have still made more power than 250ish i was honestly hoping for 275-280
he tried blaming my numbers on my engine getting over 200 on the dyno. then took me off. he didn't turn the cooling fans down to 170/180 so the car was allowed to get to 200 before they even came on. he also hasn't turned off my rear o2 sensors nor has he turned off my EGR so i gotta go back and get him to do that.
i mean the only real engine mods i have are a ebay cai, 2.5 H pipe and mufflers aside from the cams its essentially a stock 2000 gt motor with just a little extra compression
i mean the only real engine mods i have are a ebay cai, 2.5 H pipe and mufflers aside from the cams its essentially a stock 2000 gt motor with just a little extra compression
