Jason's 96 Cobra - investigative build

[RAU03MACH]

 

[RAU03MACH]

Lokar Midnight Series Throttle Cables XTC-1000MOD​

 

[RAU03MACH]

THAT ONE NO BRACKETS

 

[RAU03MACH]

so they dont sell it together anymore but here is the parts

Lokar XSRK-4000 Universal Throttle Cable Bracket and Spring Kit​

Lokar XTC-1000HT36 36 Inch Black Stainless Hi-Tech Throttle Cable​

 

[RAU03MACH]

i got mine as a complete kit

 

[1BadSVT]

so they dont sell it together anymore but here is the parts

Lokar XSRK-4000 Universal Throttle Cable Bracket and Spring Kit​

Lokar XTC-1000HT36 36 Inch Black Stainless Hi-Tech Throttle Cable​

Awesome, thank you for sharing!

 

[1BadSVT]

Shifter, trunk spring replacements, trans fluid, and driveshaft buttoned up.

 

[1BadSVT]

I got the transmission engine and everything buttoned up, triple checked everything was bolted up and to spec and got my zip tie party going on.

The car is now on the ground and on its full set of shoes. I was going to pull the blower off to put the fuel injectors back to 42s for initial startup but I decided to just get the quarter horse chip to tune for the larger injectors. The 60 lb are about 30% more fuel flow so I have to make that change in the program. I pulled the ECU today in preparation of receiving the chip and installing it so now I've moved my focus to the interior of the car and final fit and finish wiring. The gauge pod wiring needs some attention underneath the dash as it's currently a bird's nest from when I was doing initial debug. The only thing I couldn't get working right was the dimmer switch wiring. The gauges would change colors but wouldn't dim for brightness. Hilarious; but not quite the direction of going for.

I didn't have the battery on a tender and plan to change it out. It's currently (no pun intended) on charge so I can use it for debug until I decide what battery I want to buy.

Now to the good part: I found a mystery switch in the glove box a while back so it was time to figure out what it actually does. The switch has a ground and it's splice into the IDM wire on the ECU harness. I'm assuming this was a kill switch or anti-theft added by a previous owner. I'm pulling the splice out and resoldering/shrink-wrapping the wire so this switch is out. The boost a pump potentiometer is also in the glove box but it's not hooked up in the trunk so all good there.

 

[1BadSVT]

Ready to tune!

 

[1BadSVT]

Fired up the car last week for initial break in and AF was showing lean. Shut her down and checked the cylinders and found two plugs not firing. Used a noid light to check fuel injector and coil harnesses. All checked out ok. Checked all coils and they are firing. Changed the plugs and now she's running fine. I finished the initial break in and took her for the first cruise. AF, FP and everything looks good. The plan is to work with Marty Ochs out of Georgia to clean up the tune.

Traveling for work at the moment and Internet is sketch. Will upload photos tonight. Until then, check out the link below to a short video of the first drive.

First Cruise

 

[1BadSVT]

 

[1BadSVT]

I found a set of OEM 95 Cobra R wheels!
I'm looking for the right set of 220-320TW kicks to get the look I'm going for.


Also picked up a new SUV for travel and camping. This should tow the stang a little easier than the taco if needed.


Back to the Mustang:
Had the first tuning session a few weeks ago and found the two cylinders down was caused by a brand new coil gone bad. I replaced the coil and confirmed the engine is no longer throwing a code. Today I had my second tuning session and we were going through startup and idle and holding it at 2k. That's as far as we got this session. The guys and I were having a conversation about the methanol injection system and the boost targets as well as the ACT and we found a few things that need to be sorted before we go any further.

1) The ACT sensor is installed just after the MAF. What this means is it's measuring all the air at the temperature coming in through the filter. Because this car has boost, PV=nRT, the pressure can change the charge temperature substantially, especially at the boost numbers I am running. It's important to have this temperature measured after the supercharger so that we can account for this in our timing adjustments. If not, things could go sour quickly... i.e. Kaboom!
2) The second issue we found was the solenoid on my methanol injection system is on/off. That means it is full on or full off, and it is not a gradual spray based on boost. The plan is to install a new AEM control module as well as a Lightning ACT sensor in the lower intake plenum. More to come.

 

[badass98svt]

I found a set of OEM 95 Cobra R wheels!
I'm looking for the right set of 220-320TW kicks to get the look I'm going for.
View attachment 50343

Also picked up a new SUV for travel and camping. This should tow the stang a little easier than the taco if needed.
View attachment 50344

Back to the Mustang:
Had the first tuning session a few weeks ago and found the two cylinders down was caused by a brand new coil gone bad. I replaced the coil and confirmed the engine is no longer throwing a code. Today I had my second tuning session and we were going through startup and idle and holding it at 2k. That's as far as we got this session. The guys and I were having a conversation about the methanol injection system and the boost targets as well as the ACT and we found a few things that need to be sorted before we go any further.

1) The ACT sensor is installed just after the MAF. What this means is it's measuring all the air at the temperature coming in through the filter. Because this car has boost, PV=nRT, the pressure can change the charge temperature substantially, especially at the boost numbers I am running. It's important to have this temperature measured after the supercharger so that we can account for this in our timing adjustments. If not, things could go sour quickly... i.e. Kaboom!
2) The second issue we found was the solenoid on my methanol injection system is on/off. That means it is full on or full off, and it is not a gradual spray based on boost. The plan is to install a new AEM control module as well as a Lightning ACT sensor in the lower intake plenum. More to come.

That looks like a clean set of Rs!
They are getting harder to find these days.

 

[Snorky]

That is a very sharp car, nice work. I am a bit jealous of the Kenne bell lol. Seems so simple and leaves such a clean presentation in the engine bay.

 

[1BadSVT]

That is a very sharp car, nice work. I am a bit jealous of the Kenne bell lol. Seems so simple and leaves such a clean presentation in the engine bay.

The cleanest part was moving to C.O.P. It eliminated the coil packs up front and all the wires.

 

[Snorky]

The cleanest part was moving to C.O.P. It eliminated the coil packs up front and all the wires.

That is definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[1BadSVT]

Well, the third tuning session is set for the end of this month. After our last session we identified that the ACT needs to relocate after the blower and I needed to install a more modern controller for the methanol.

I have the controller routed underneath the carpet into the trunk and have it all tucked in the glove box awaiting a few grommets and some velcro. I've got a new fuse distribution block for full-time and key on 12 volts for my three gauges and the AEM controller. The plan is to debug everything with the wire nuts and then solder it and shrink wrap everything before tidying up the whole package on top of the metal knee bolster underneath the steering column.

 

[1BadSVT]

A little tidier; vacuum later

 

[ttocs]

wire nuts are a big no-no for car use. Inside of that cap is a spring that tightens down on the wires and inside of a house where there is no vibrations and it stays about the same temp they are great. In a car that spring will go through some hot/cold cycles that along with some vibrations will pop out of the cap and leave the connection exposed to short out. I know I have seen some manf that include them with what ever they sell but trust me you don't want to use those or t-taps which I have also seen manf include with some products.

 

[1BadSVT]

wire nuts are a big no-no for car use. Inside of that cap is a spring that tightens down on the wires and inside of a house where there is no vibrations and it stays about the same temp they are great. In a car that spring will go through some hot/cold cycles that along with some vibrations will pop out of the cap and leave the connection exposed to short out. I know I have seen some manf that include them with what ever they sell but trust me you don't want to use those or t-taps which I have also seen manf include with some products.

Absolutely, screenshot for receipt. I didn't post the detail here those were for troubleshooting only.