Heres a right up from a guy in my car club, I would link i but you need to be a member.
Where to get it and what else do I need?
I finally got around to installing my Classic Design Concepts light bar. I bought it about 3 or 4 months ago from Haney Motorsports. They were the cheapest I could find anywhere and the customer service was great. I initially purchased their third brake light interrupt switch, but I decided not to use it since I found a better option. I found a company called Web Electronic Products. They make a brake light interrupt switch that saved me a BOAT LOAD of time and effort. It has all the factory Ford connectors already on it and requires no cutting or splicing of the factory harnesses. You just plug it in to the correct factory harnesses and then wire it to the bar. This is not 100% necessary if you are good at wiring things, but I am not a big fan of cutting into factory harnesses so this thing was a god send for me . The Haney Motorsports interrupt switch seems like a good product, but the WEP model is so simple I can't see why anyone would want to use anything else.
Tools needed and getting started
The first thing I like to do when taking on a job like this, is read the directions from cover to cover. I am SUPER picky with my car and if I was to mess up something like an interior panel, I don't think I could live with myself. So, without starting a therapy session for my OCD, I'll just recommend that you read the directions thoroughly. thumbsup
Don't get discouraged by the drilling and cutting. It's not hard and the holes that your going to drill are not visible once the bar is in place. Make sure you have a nice clean place to put your back seat when you take it out. I put mine in the house so that it didn't get in the way or dirty. I also recommend that you have some leather cleaner and conditioner on hand because your bar and panels are going to get a little finger printy (This could be the OCD coming out again, I don't know). Now the tools you'll need:
1/4" & 3/8" Ratchet. 1/4" & 3/8" (at least 3") Extensions. 1/4" 7mm and 10mm Sockets. 3/8" 18mm Socket. T-50 & T25 Torx bit. 1/4" Allen Wrench (preferably allen socket). Pop Rivetter (I got a Craftsman middle of the line for $20). 6" (at least) Flat Head Screw Driver. Electric Drill. Drill Bits: 1/8", 19/64", 13/32" (one of those fancy stepped bits makes things VERY EASY also). 3/4", 1" and 1 3/4" Hole Saws. Center punch. Hammer. Putty Knife (I have plenty of Putty Knives, but I used a flat head screw driver instead). It'll help to have a door trim fork, but it's not a must. You'll also want to have some basic electrical tools like a crimping tool, cutter and to do it right, shrink tube.
Basic Installation Tips
The instructions that come with the CDC bar are very easy to follow so I'm not going to go through the entire install step by step. I'm just going to hit on the tips and tricks that I found to be very helpful and time saving.
The bottom portion of the seat is pretty easy to get out. Take your long flat head screw driver and peak under the front of the seat. You should see a white, plastic bracket under there. Place your screw driver on the front of it and push. You'll feel the button push in and the seat should pop up. If it doesn't, just give it a little tug (do the same on both sides). If your installing this in a 03/04 Cobra, you'll need the 18mm socket to get the top portion of the rear seat out. If your installing this in a 94-02 I think you only need a 10mm socket to get it out. Once you get the back seat out of the car, get it out of the way and someplace safe.
The removal of the panels are pretty self explanatory. TAKE IT SLOW and don't force anything. I ended up putting a small crack in the top of my rear panel and BangHead had to go sit in the bathroom shaking and crying for like half hour before I could get back to work angry7 (I fixed it with a small dab of Super Glue and I think I'm gonna live). The panels are pretty much held in by plastic push fasteners, so take it easy and don't HAM hand it.
Once the panels are disconnected, the directions show that you need to remove the seat belt re-tractor, but it's NOT necessary. I don't know why they have that in there, but in a 03/04 Cobra all I needed to do was unbolt the seat belt at the floor with the T-50 Torx. That will enable you to get the panels completely out of the car. You will need to remove the upper speaker grills and the "T" trim peace out of the panels.
Remove the speakers next. Don't forget to unplug the harnesses laughing9
You should now be looking at a VERY empty back seat area. You'll need to mark the "B" pillars now, in order to get the mounting bolt holes drilled. The "B" pillar is the section of the car directly behind the doors. There is already a pilot hole in the B-Pillar from the factory that would be used if you don't have the Mach 460 system, to mount the back speakers. There are two small holes there, you'll use the higher one of the two. Line the little 1/8" hole in the bracket, up with the little hole already in the B-Pillar. Stick the rivet in the hole but DO NOT affix the rivet. Just stick it in there and let it hold the bracket in place so that you can mark the pilot holes. Use the "LEFT" side bracket to mark the passenger side and the "Right" side bracket to mark the driver side. The brackets are marked with an "L" and an "R". When you line the brackets up to mark the holes, make sure that the threaded bushings are facing you. Line the edge of the bracket with the inside edge of the B-Pillar and then use your punch and hammer to mark the holes inside each threaded bushing. The directions tell you to affix the bracket at this time, but DO NOT affix either bracket until you have both sides marked and drilled.
Once you have the spots marked with the punch, use a 1/8" drill bit to drill a pilot hole in each marked spot. You'll then enlarge each hole with a 3/4" bit. Once you have the holes drilled out completely, you can mount the brackets on the inside of the B-pillar. Make sure that the threaded bushings are facing the rear of the car when you mount them. You use the rivets that are supplied and affix them into the small hole that you used earlier to mock up the brackets on the front of the B-pillar. You can now fire the rivet in, but make sure that there is no metal shavings keeping the bracket from sitting flush on the inside of the B-pillar.
The driver side of the car is the "LEFT" side and the Passenger side is the "RIGHT" side. You will use the opposite bracket on each side, that you used to mock up the mounting holes. This is because the threaded bushings are off center in the bracket. You used them "backwards" and on opposite sides of the car to make the holes. Then spin them around and mount them to the back of the B-pillar. Again, this is something that will make much more sense when you have the parts in front of you.
Drilling the panels is pretty self explanatory too, but I found a few tips that will make it easier to do. Take the paper templates that are included with the instructions, there are two for each side. The easiest way to prepare the template for the upper holes is to cut the excess (not needed) paper off of the template. Then take a razor blade and slice a cross into the center of each mock hole. Fold back the edges of the cross so that the mock hole actually has a small hole in the center. This will keep the drill bit from binding up the paper and spinning it out of your hand. It should like this when your done prepping it.
There is no need to cut excess paper off of the other template, just cut the holes in the same fashion as described above.
You will never get tape to stick to the panels, so this will make it MUCH easier to keep the templates in place. Drill a 1/8" pilot hole in the middle of the template hole that you made with the razor blade. Once the pilots are all drilled you can put the templates aside. Follow the instructions VERY closely for the drilling of the larger holes. There is no trick to this, it just takes a steady hand and a sharp hole saw. If you have a dremel tool, use it to smooth out your cuts and make the upper two intersecting holes, one big oval hole. BE CAREFUL NOT TO MAKE THE LOWER OF THE INTERSECTING HOLES ANY LOWER! If you do, it will stick out under the bar and will look like ass nono.
You can now reinstall your speaker enclosures and rear panels. Your almost done with the light bar install banana. Now grab your light bar in the center and climb into the back of the car. You should be able to slide it in both holes without help, but if you have an extra hand, it will make things easier on you. You may have to wiggle the mounting posts a bit to get it in, but once you get them lined up it should just slide right into place. I used a wire hanger (all straightened out) and taped the wires from the bar to the end of it. Then fished the hanger (with the wires) down the inside of the driver side panel. Pull the wires into the rear seat area.
Install the allen bolts with washers one at a time, but DO NOT tighten them until all 4 are started. I put the passenger side two in and then pulled the bar down as hard as I could while tightening the lower bolt. I did the same thing on the driver side and then went back and tightened the top bolts.
Pop the bolt covers into the holes were the mounting bolts go and your finished with the bar install. Now it's time to wire it up.
If you got the WEP break light interrupt kit, this is the easiest part of the job. Locate the harness that goes to the top motor. The wires leading to it should be yellow and red. Unravel the wires of the WEP harness and plug in the gray plugs. Then feed the brown plugs into the trunk. Make sure you keep the regular, unplugged wires in the rear seat area (there is plenty of slack here and when you have the harness in your hand, you'll know what I mean). The brown plugs will hook up to the factory break light harness. You'll find that behind the interior panel in the trunk, on the driver side. The wires that you left in the rear seat area will hook into the light bar's wiring.
The CDC instructions do not list which wire is the positive and which is the ground. So, you'll need to temporarily hook the wires up, test the light and then swap them if you have to. If your first guess worked, your good to go, make it permanent with some crimp connectors and put the seat back in. You'll have to make some moddifications to your factory seat belt loops also. Follow the directions and this should be a peace of cake. I didn't like the way it came out though, so I'm ordering the recommend hoops (the part #'s are in the instructions, I believe they are 94-98 hoops.
