Looking at a new Cooling Fan, who all has bought one of these?

SRT Handz

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DONT buy a mishimoto fan...

I needed a new fan, bought a Ford OEM one from Tousley ford. Pumps hard.

if you want the most hardcore fan in your stang get a Mark8 Fan
 

robb15033

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I don't understand kissing abs. I guess I am going to look at a Ford Mark8 OEM fan.? I need to make a move too. My fan is not cutting it.
 
OP
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M

Mustang46

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I need more clearance. my fan works fine but I am wanting a little more room between the turbo and the fan.
 

Marvin97

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I'd do a little more research into the fans. If you go on american muscle and read some of the reviews for the mishimoto fan you will find people who have installed it, who didn't have problems overheating, that had trouble with it after the mishimoto install. Also a straight blade fan will be much louder than a curved blade fan. I myself bought a SPAL fan and harness for mine and it works great. Very shallow, flows 2000cfm, curved blade and is very quiet. I wouldn't run mishimoto if someone gave it to me.
 

Mystic SVT

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For you guys that say your stock fan isn't cutting it and are running n/a, are you guys sure that the problem isn't a clogged radiator, stuck thermostat or collapsing water hoses? The stock fans move a good amount of air, I mean if they can keep 300-700hp forced induction mustangs cool then I see no problem with the fan keeping a V6 or n/a 2v/4v cool. Maybe its time for a new fan also, mine kicked the bucket over a 1 week period, I noticed the car was running hotter then usual, finally it started screeching. Bought a new replacement and back to cool temps it was...even in this damn texas heat my car never gets past the "R".
 

robb15033

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I have a brand new radiator and hoses. My issue only presents itself when the outdoor temperature is 90 degrees+ and I am driving over 60-65 mph. Because of the 3:73 gears, I run at about 2500 RPM while at 65-75 mph. Thats when the temp creeps up.
Tonight when I get to work, I'm going to fabricate something to divert more air up to the radiator. The bottom of the radiator frame has a metal frame with holes in it and it's angled at 45 degrees. I'm going to use that to attach something that extends downward to catch the air and divert it up into the radiator and see how well that works.
 

Marvin97

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I have a brand new radiator and hoses. My issue only presents itself when the outdoor temperature is 90 degrees+ and I am driving over 60-65 mph. Because of the 3:73 gears, I run at about 2500 RPM while at 65-75 mph. Thats when the temp creeps up.
Tonight when I get to work, I'm going to fabricate something to divert more air up to the radiator. The bottom of the radiator frame has a metal frame with holes in it and it's angled at 45 degrees. I'm going to use that to attach something that extends downward to catch the air and divert it up into the radiator and see how well that works.
at those speeds the car shouldn't be getting hot. Airflow through the radiator should be enough to keep it cool. If it is in fact getting hot at interstate speeds something else is wrong besides the fan. Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge so you can actually tell how hot its getting?
 

robb15033

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at those speeds the car shouldn't be getting hot. Airflow through the radiator should be enough to keep it cool. If it is in fact getting hot at interstate speeds something else is wrong besides the fan. Do you have an aftermarket temp gauge so you can actually tell how hot its getting?
I have the stock temp gauge. Like I said, when its 89 degrees or so i have no issues. Its when the temps are in the 90's-100's and I'm driving around 70mph it gets warm. Thats about 2400 RPM with the tune and 3.73 gears. The needle will go slightly past half way(Dead center middle)- A little to the right of center of the letter "M". I'm guessing 195 degrees maybe. I would love for it to be dead center all the time like it usually is.
Temperatures around here seem to be either 100 degrees every day or 30 degrees every day in the winter. Barley nothing in between. Seems that way anyway.
 

ttocs

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There is no reason runnin 70 at 2500 rpm would mean that you do not have enough air over the radiator. Do you think the fan pulls the air through at by itself at 70? it is nowhere near that speed. I would say your problems with heat have more to do with the underdrive pullies then the fan. They slow down the water pump in order to gain the 3-4 hp that they give you. Also makes it much harder on your alternator since it is designed to rotate and cool itself at a certain speed. Slowing it down generates more heat as well as make your headlights dim at lights, even if you didn't replace the alt pulley, had to replace yours yet? I had UDP's long enough to realize that they were not gaining me enough performance to justify the problems they cause. Before you drop more money into a fan, why not swap those out and see if you notice the difference in performance or the difference in temps.
 

Paul

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Stock fans are more than adequate to cool the car. Look elsewhere.

Mark VIII fans are awesome, but not a direct swap. I had one on my '94 GT in a custom aluminum shroud, but it wasn't cheap and wasn't probably necessary.

Paul.
 

Mystic SVT

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There is no reason runnin 70 at 2500 rpm would mean that you do not have enough air over the radiator. Do you think the fan pulls the air through at by itself at 70? it is nowhere near that speed. I would say your problems with heat have more to do with the underdrive pullies then the fan. They slow down the water pump in order to gain the 3-4 hp that they give you. Also makes it much harder on your alternator since it is designed to rotate and cool itself at a certain speed. Slowing it down generates more heat as well as make your headlights dim at lights, even if you didn't replace the alt pulley, had to replace yours yet? I had UDP's long enough to realize that they were not gaining me enough performance to justify the problems they cause. Before you drop more money into a fan, why not swap those out and see if you notice the difference in performance or the difference in temps.

I can see underdrive pulleys being an issue at idle but not at 2500 rpms, the water pump should be moving enough water through the motor at that rpm no matter how big the water pump pulley. The issue might lie in that air isn't being diverted enough through the radiator at those speeds for some reason or the thermostat is sticking at higher rpm.
 

ttocs

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it would be running but it would be running slower then it was designed too, meanwhile his motor is turning faster then it was designed to at that speed because of the gears. So while the motor is building extra heat the cooling system is turning slower then it was meant too. Now unless he has a different front end/radiator or the radiator is clogged I am not sure why his car would cool itself less then any other sn95 at 70.

My point really is that it would be a simple 30 min job to swap them around and try it out for free rather then spending money on the fan to hope it fixes it.
 

Mystic SVT

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Our cars have plastic dams underneath and on the sides of the radiator support in front of the ac condensor, theres a possibility he could be missing these. Also, he never mentioned anything about having replaced his thermostat which could also be a problem. It could well be a possibility that his pulleys are affecting his cooling capabilities at that speed/rpm but it could very well be other things affecting it.
 

ttocs

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I am not swearing that this is the case, just sayin there is an easy and cheap way to test it before throwing money at other parts. I would not suspect the fan as much as a dirty radiator or bad t-stat since he is having the problem while at speed. IF you had temp issues at idle I would suspect the fan but when you are already forcing air over it at speed I am not sure how much work the fan really does.
 

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