modular experts

[vermilion]

this is why i like the sean hyland books. MMR isnt just back-alley mechanics. in the sean hyland books it shows you what sleeved is and how they utilize big cubes with sleeving techniques. the difference in the 5.4/4.6 crank is the rod stroke, not the crank bore.

 

[duff daddy]

Like said above i think its great you want to build your own engine but modulars have tight tolerances and need to be done right that goes double if you plan on running the combo you are with high boost. Learn on a junkyard engine and let the pros build your high hp DD engine.

holy crap, i must not be that stupid if someone else suggested the same exact thign that i did chirs hahah. seriously....

 

[vermilion]

burn!

 

[Magic]

oh kay... im in over my head a little again :drunken_smilie:

just like when i ask blower questions. and what not... i have no idea what to do here...

The *biggest* question i have is: is there a difference between the 5.4 crank and the 4.6 crank? Will a 5.4 fit in a 4.6 block and vise-versa?

keep in mind im shooting for something around 900 *crank* horsepower (800-840 to the wheels)

Also keep in mind that i want this motor to be somewhat reliable, and to have to get dis-assembled as little as possible.

You need to lay down a plan on how exactly you want to attain this power goal. You did not mention how you want to get there...Turbo? Supercharger? with or without nitrous?

You will need to select a properly sized unit (blower or turbo(s)), cuz a P1SC or S-trim will not cut it....and dont forget all the other things that tend to go along with it...like a PROPER fuel system (pumps, larger lines, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, rails).

Now to your preliminary questions:

A 5.4 crank will NOT fit into a 4.6 block and vice versa.

The teksid block is a good choice. But keep in mind without proper prep it CAN fail.

What heads are you going to use? IMO much easier to attain your power goal with a 4v head setup.

Also , best thing to do is do LOTS of your own research and talk to other people who are making the same power as you want and what its taken them to get there.

In all honesty, I think an 03-04 Cobra longblock might be an easier solution on the pocketbook.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Im with paul on this one....

all of the modular blocks are supposed to be able to handle almost anything you can put through it.

the 93-98 alum. blocks are supposed to handle over 1500 hp while the iron blocks 1000+

 

[DropTopPony]

Like said above i think its great you want to build your own engine but modulars have tight tolerances and need to be done right that goes double if you plan on running the combo you are with high boost. Learn on a junkyard engine and let the pros build your high hp DD engine.

holy crap, i must not be that stupid if someone else suggested the same exact thign that i did chirs hahah. seriously....

We were both probably thinking he was gonna have at it alone in his bedroom wearing his Superman PJ's. If he's having a builder do the work and just going to be there to assist and learn then thats different then him saying he's gonna build it himself. He had me worried there for a bit.

 

[TxCobrA98]

stick with the Teksid man, Bob speaks the truth about them. ive researched them as well and theres not much that beats a Teksid block.

And Teksid is Teksid, no reproductions. "Teksid" made Ferrari's blocks as well, so they must know a thing or two.

 

[MustangChris]

this is why i like the sean hyland books. MMR isnt just back-alley mechanics. in the sean hyland books it shows you what sleeved is and how they utilize big cubes with sleeving techniques. the difference in the 5.4/4.6 crank is the rod stroke, not the crank bore.

i know what sleeving is. and it looks like on aluminum blocks they can sink after years of use.

also, thank you for the 5.4/4.6 info

Like said above i think its great you want to build your own engine but modulars have tight tolerances and need to be done right that goes double if you plan on running the combo you are with high boost. Learn on a junkyard engine and let the pros build your high hp DD engine.

holy crap, i must not be that stupid if someone else suggested the same exact thign that i did chirs hahah. seriously....

im not wasting money on a junkyard motor... ive got $600.00 tail lights to buy...

oh kay... im in over my head a little again :drunken_smilie:

just like when i ask blower questions. and what not... i have no idea what to do here...

The *biggest* question i have is: is there a difference between the 5.4 crank and the 4.6 crank? Will a 5.4 fit in a 4.6 block and vise-versa?

keep in mind im shooting for something around 900 *crank* horsepower (800-840 to the wheels)

Also keep in mind that i want this motor to be somewhat reliable, and to have to get dis-assembled as little as possible.

You need to lay down a plan on how exactly you want to attain this power goal. You did not mention how you want to get there...Turbo? Supercharger? with or without nitrous?

You will need to select a properly sized unit (blower or turbo(s)), cuz a P1SC or S-trim will not cut it....and dont forget all the other things that tend to go along with it...like a PROPER fuel system (pumps, larger lines, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, rails).

Now to your preliminary questions:

A 5.4 crank will NOT fit into a 4.6 block and vice versa.

The teksid block is a good choice. But keep in mind without proper prep it CAN fail.

What heads are you going to use? IMO much easier to attain your power goal with a 4v head setup.

Also , best thing to do is do LOTS of your own research and talk to other people who are making the same power as you want and what its taken them to get there.

In all honesty, I think an 03-04 Cobra longblock might be an easier solution on the pocketbook.

lol, i have a whole build thread amigo KB 2.8L Top mount. as for the fuel system i pretty much plan on leaving that up to the tuning shop to work out.

Thanks for the 5.4/4.6 info

Im leaning more and more for the boss 5.0, but i still havent picked yet... that $3,000 price tag is hard to swallow.

Ive already purchased terminator heads.

I looked at alot of other forums and people making 1000 RWHP with aluminum blocks all seem to own shops... and therefore dont care about dropping the motor once a week. Some people running teskids have mentioned weaker threads in the block and pushing out freeze plugs (although i dont think the freeze plug problem is a common occurance)

as for the termi long block, im looking to stand out a little bit and to push for some more cubes. Everyone and their mother drops in an assembled FRPP termi long block. My two expenses are my house and my car-shopping list. .. .. house is good to go for 2009, so now its time for the car.

Im with paul on this one....

all of the modular blocks are supposed to be able to handle almost anything you can put through it.

the 93-98 alum. blocks are supposed to handle over 1500 hp while the iron blocks 1000+

My question is, how long do you think each one will last over time? when I'm 260 years old (which will happen because we are getting socialized healthcare.) will I have to pull out my teskid because the gasket surfaces warped due to non-uniformal (is that a word) heating-and-cooling cycles? is my timing cover going to decided to remove itself due to weeker threads? are my sleaves going to sink due to un-uniformal (is that a word) heating-and-cooling cycles?

I honestly dont know what to expect...

Kenne bell put a 2.8 on a Cobra.... they upgraded the fuel system to handle the blower... then on a 100% stock car (outside of the blower and fuel) it pushed out 774 to the wheels (according to their website) Im guessing that about 850 crank horsepower.

Im guessing ill be looking at more than that with more CIs and a built head...

This car will immediately be lost as a daily driver, so i dont need to worry about that. It wont see snow and ill avoid rain.... the ONLY thing im worried about at this point is the block failing. (keep in mind, this is the first step of the build, so this is the only think I *have* to worry about at this point) I just want "the right answer"... lol. what if i get bored and throw giggle gas at it? then im going from 900 crank to 1000 crank. will my block thats 10 years old be able to handle that? would a cast stand a better chance than aluminum?

I know the numbers im throwing out and the "madatory" reliabilty thing seem hypocritical, but keep in mind i am throwing out numbers for a worst-case-scenario.... "Prepare for teh worst and hope for the best." Id hate to build a motor ready for 850 HP and the car makes 900 and blows up its first go on the dyno. so I'm "preparing" for 1000 crank, but in all reality I will be running it at 17 PSI most of the time anyways... So I guess my biggest fear isnt the block failing, but more of it failing over time. I realize everything fails over time... but which one will last longer? a cast? or an aluminum? a cast with sleaves? or an aluminum with sleeves? how do you even spell sleavez?

Like said above i think its great you want to build your own engine but modulars have tight tolerances and need to be done right that goes double if you plan on running the combo you are with high boost. Learn on a junkyard engine and let the pros build your high hp DD engine.

holy crap, i must not be that stupid if someone else suggested the same exact thign that i did chirs hahah. seriously....

We were both probably thinking he was gonna have at it alone in his bedroom wearing his Superman PJ's. If he's having a builder do the work and just going to be there to assist and learn then thats different then him saying he's gonna build it himself. He had me worried there for a bit.

Dont you DARE bring my spiderman PJs into this...

I'm well aware that I have some experience on cars... I just learned how to put in new headlights... because im ballar like that... but building an 800HP car is well over my head. Everyone on the site understand the intake, compression, combustion, exhaust cylces... but it takes a professional to order "honda v-tak heat-sensitive rings" instead of "mitchubishi mivek cold-sensitive rings..."

]
stick with the Teksid man, Bob speaks the truth about them. ive researched them as well and theres not much that beats a Teksid block.

And Teksid is Teksid, no reproductions. "Teksid" made Ferrari's blocks as well, so they must know a thing or two.

"Q Oil" is recomended by ferarri, but i still use moble 1 ;-) lol.

I have a feeling both blocks will handle the power fine (now that ive written this long thread and thought about it some.) NOW what im worried about is longevity (here's where your expertise (sp?) comes in Bob) will my aluminum block warp funny because of the matrial, where a cast block wouldnt? will the aluminum block crack after 20 years, where a cast one wouldnt? will my gasket surfaces warp on the aluminum where a cast one wouldnt?


Picking a block is harder than picking a girlfriend... All I want out of a girlfriend is a pulse. And sometimes that's optional!

Thank you all for your help. please. keep the pwnage coming!

 

[MustangChris]

i think i just decided to keep the teskid, and depending on how much boring is required to get it all good-to-go, ill make my final decision then. i want it to be withing 20 over, ya know?


anyone running larger bore on their teskids? ... . BOB? lol.

 

[duff daddy]

people run larger bores b ut once you go over twenty over, your going to need to get it sleeved.

 

[MustangChris]

thats what i was thinking...

so we will see how it does at the machine shop. He TQed down the mains and it looks like its gunna need some work..... :-(


anyone know of an ARP kit that comes with all 6 bolts per main?

 

[Paul]

]And Teksid is Teksid, no reproductions. "Teksid" made Ferrari's blocks as well, so they must know a thing or two.

Ferrari casts their own blocks at the factory in Modena. Just because Teksid is an Italian company and supplier to various manufacturers, does not mean they cast Ferrari blocks. This is another internet myth so that modular owners can think they're cool.

 

[justinschmidt1]

]And Teksid is Teksid, no reproductions. "Teksid" made Ferrari's blocks as well, so they must know a thing or two.

Ferrari casts their own blocks at the factory in Modena. Just because Teksid is an Italian company and supplier to various manufacturers, does not mean they cast Ferrari blocks. This is another internet myth so that modular owners can think they're cool.

lol...awesomeness.

Ive never even heard that....mod motors are the gayness anyway, everyone knows that.

I hate driving my car without boost. its such a vag mobile N/A

 

[DropTopPony]

Teksid did not build the block for Ferrari they supply the Aluminum to make it. They also supply it to Fiat,Audi etc etc.

 

[98GTnSC]

OOOOOO!!!!! get sum!!!

 

[TxCobrA98]

Teksid did not build the block for Ferrari they supply the Aluminum to make it. They also supply it to Fiat,Audi etc etc.

oh okay, i stand corrected. i thought they were the supplier of their blocks. i guess its just the aluminum they supply.

Ferrari casts their own blocks at the factory in Modena. Just because Teksid is an Italian company and supplier to various manufacturers, does not mean they cast Ferrari blocks. This is another internet myth so that modular owners can think they're cool.

meh, no... it doesn't make me think im cooler than the next guy. i just thought the quality was a lot better because I THOUGHT teksid built the block.

 

[DropTopPony]

The quality of the Aluminum is better. So Teksids are special
Ford used them because they had to because of time constraints. As soon as they were able to get their own program going they ended the deal with Teksid and started building the WAP blocks cheaper.

A production aluminum block that can take 1500hp is special to me especially since they can be found for under $400.

 

[vermilion]

a 4.6 stoked uses a 5.4 crank.