More nitrous questions

[Kris]

First off, I'm running a fuel pressure safety switch, well, about to. I need to know what minimun psi I need. They have a bunch, 10psi, 15psi, 25psi min, etc.

Also, for bottle heaters, the way I understand a heater with a thermostat is it automatically kicks off and on when I reaches a certain temp, right? I found a lot of cheap Zex heaters with thermostats for like $125.

Next, front shocks. I understand they make a world of difference for helping my 60ft. I have strange 10 ways in the rear and love em. They are adjustable. I went to my local shop and they want like $165 for the fronts a piece and the rears were only $70 each. Is there any adjustable front shock that's cheaper?

As for subframe connectors, again, I need a better 60ft. I'm doing control arms next season, can't afford them right now. The underbody or my caris coated. So id have to drill through the floorboards and bolt these. Pretty each job? Better or worse than the weld in type?

Thanks fella's

 

[94 DropTop]

Ok, I just got my bottle heater from dynotune nitrous and it was $111 shipped it is controled my pressure and not temp which is better.

Id go with strange or got with some lakewoods for the front. I have lakewoods 90/10's on mine right now and like them just fine.

And as for the subframe connectors weld them in, bolting them is a waste of time and effort.

Im not sure about the fuel pressure switch I need one for my kit also.

 

[Kris]

Thanks. Ill snag up my bottle heater from that place then. Are those lakewoods adjustable? The guys at the shop tell me that non adjustable shocks are a waste..

 

[Kris]

I also need advise on a new clutch for my car. It's a 95 Cobra with full exhaust, TFS1 cam, 4.10's, and other bolts on's, and 150 wet shot. Should make around 400WHP and a good bit of torque.

 

[94 DropTop]

Im an auto person so I have no idea on a clutch. No they are not adjustible. you can buy them in a 70/30 or a 90/10

 

[Lee12609]

go with pressure referenced bottle heater. you need to find out the optimum pressure for whatever kit you have, each one has a different "optimum" pressure level.

for SAFE fuel pressure setting, you want it a couple psi at the MOST below static fuel pressure. 30psi should be perfectly fine so long as the nitrous tune is not on the verge of being lean. you want nitrous shutdown at the instance fuel delivery falls off or you'll run lean. if you dont have one already you need to grab a 255lph pump asap, i wouldnt trust a 150 shot on anything less.

front shocks, tokico and strange is about the only adjustable ones i know of, not sure if QA1 has them for our application or not but on other cars they are my preferred choice. if this is a cruiser/weekend warrior you want adjustables, if its prodominately a track car dont worry about it and get the lakewoods, even the lakewood 70/30 arent bad for daily driving once you get used to it.

clutch, beats me, i'm auto!

and subframe connectors MUST be welded to be useful.

 

[Kris]

It's my street car but see's ALOT of track time and hard street runs lol.

Yea, I already have a 255 installed.

A gun on another forum PM'd me to let me know that thermostat type heater are junk. Why is this? He's trying to sell me the type that just uses a positive and negative ends that you run to a switch to maually turn it on and off.. But how would I know when to turn it on, or even remember to turn it off?? Seems like the thermostat type would be the way to go imo.

...and you lost me on the fuel pressure safety switch. I'm kinda of a newbie so you have to put that in retard terms for me. It's a 95 Cobra motor, fuel system is stock other than a 255, I'll prolly get a wideband, and it will be dyno tuned on the safe side.. I don't want the a/f to he any higher than 11.8

 

[wm23n1]

Welded subframe connectors FIRST!

 

[Kris]

Subframe connectors really make that big of a difference?

 

[wm23n1]

Avoids twisiting your unibody. It can happen. My 01 z28 with a 100 shot twisted a little.. My hatch sometimes wouldn't open.The passengers door would get stuck closed.

 

[Kris]

lol..

Well... Mines already pretty twisted.

I bought the car from a kid who didn't know anything about cars. I asked him why it had a cobra motor. He said the guy before him had twin turbo's, blew it up, and sold him the roller and he bought the cobra motor from his buddy.

I called BS.

Then I went to replace the battery and install an intake to find 2 HUGE gaping holes cut into the inner fenders.

Then I wondered why my doors were misaligned.. I figured the hinges needed replaced..

So this being said, should I still install subframe connectors? Or is it too late?

 

[wm23n1]

Im sure they have other advantages. I just can't think of any right now.

 

[94 DropTop]

Id maybe put it on a frame machine first, and then do the subframe connectors. I recommend calling around to shops to have them installed before you go buy a set. I have a local shop here going to build me some and install the for 150-200. Were just buying a set of MM ones would cost almost 150 just to get to me.

 

[Lee12609]

The point of the fuel pressure safety switch is to shut nitrous off incase anything happens that creates low fuel pressure which would cause a lean condition. If the a/f is tuned for 10.8 @38psi fuel and fuel pressure drops below that then a/f goes way up real quick.