- Joined
- May 31, 2019
- Messages
- 1,191
- Reaction score
- 1,494
It's not so much the solder, but how much is applied. More is not usually better and causes much worse problems.
Need a new battery cable but which one?
- Thread starter bennylava
- Start date
Musturd
Post Whore
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 11,222
- Reaction score
- 3,672
It makes wires hard and brittle and prone to cracking under vibrations and shit . So prefer to use not insulated butt connectors and heat shrink for most my wiring .It's not so much the solder, but how much is applied. More is not usually better and causes much worse problems.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I still prefer soldering myself. Even after experiencing that one time where the wire broke at the solder joint after years of vibrations, but this was a wire right on top of the motor so it saw heat/cold cycles as well that could not have helped.
- Joined
- May 31, 2019
- Messages
- 1,191
- Reaction score
- 1,494
I know what it does, was just making a point of the amount some put on connections. I too use non-insulated connectors, solder, heat shrink for almost all my connections. Think of it like Brylcream "A little dab'll do ya" Now I'm dating myself.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I have also started to use those heat shrink with a solder ring in the middle and the sealing adhesive on the sides that you use a heat gun to melt the solder and shrink the insulation/activate the glue. I have to say so far that I am impressed but to the point that I am afraid they are too good to be true. It is just enough solder, seals the ends and as long as the insulation stays good then they are everything they are made out to be.....
Musturd
Post Whore
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 11,222
- Reaction score
- 3,672
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I got an assortment at a local car huge annual car show that has a area for sales. I have am not completely sold as I could not help but think the insulation seemed like it was not going to last all that long but time will tell.
Musturd
Post Whore
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2011
- Messages
- 11,222
- Reaction score
- 3,672
Agreed I’ve only used them a handful of times and had the case of the things for a couple years
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I was literally soldering some wires today where they would have been perfect, instead I am was trying to remember if I put my soldering iron back where it belongs last time I used it or not...
OP
OP
bennylava
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2023
- Messages
- 78
- Reaction score
- 15
Like someone said they kind of mush over time. With the other type of connector for post batteries, if you overtighten it, you just ruin it and the metal pops right there on the spot. Teaches you real quick not to do that, and they never squish over time and become useless.
Yeah I wired up some new LED headlights and relays for my old 87 Chevy truck. After about a year, they would flicker when you went over a bump lol
The problem ended up being that the solder had cracked. And a bump would separate it enough to cut the power. Kind of funny but pretty annoying. I think the strongest might be to do both. Crimp it on, then ad a bit of solder to the parts where the wire is exposed to the crimp. Depending on the type of connector you crimped on, there can be significant area to solder onto. Might help it hold on a little tighter...
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
that is why I have heard people I respect say that soldering is bad and I have an assortment of waterproof harnesses that I use when I can even if it is only one wire, but as I said I had to run some wiring for a trailer hitch on my daily and soldered its connections. after 30 yrs of soldering hundreds of wires I have only had one failed and that was only after 4-5 years and like I said it was on top of the motor wobbling around more than any other wire in the car.
OP
OP
bennylava
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2023
- Messages
- 78
- Reaction score
- 15
I'll head to the parts store this week and have them make me a 58" cable. Maybe I'll go 60" just in case I need a little extra wiggle room. And hopefully have them crimp the end on there.
Has anyone here done this replacement? If so how did it go, was it a PITA?
Has anyone here done this replacement? If so how did it go, was it a PITA?
Terrorist 5.0
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2023
- Messages
- 546
- Reaction score
- 217
I believe the negative battery cable comes off the negative post on the battery, runs alongside the hood latch cable, then turns down into the main harness wiring loom, and down to the driver side engine mount, where it is secured with a nut.
I relocated the motor mount end to the A/C compressor bracket (my A/C was deleted a while ago) as it is a clean, and easily accessible area.
The hardest part would probably be pulling the old wire out of the loom, unless you just want to run another cable alongside. Nothing wrong with that, I personally don’t like doing it like that though.
- Joined
- May 31, 2019
- Messages
- 1,191
- Reaction score
- 1,494
^
Yes, the NEG cable runs to a stud/nut on the driver motor mount, but you can always put it where you want. It also has a small 10ga wire attached that goes to the body frame near the hood prop. No, it's not hard to replace, just get stuff out of the way and go from there.
Yes, the NEG cable runs to a stud/nut on the driver motor mount, but you can always put it where you want. It also has a small 10ga wire attached that goes to the body frame near the hood prop. No, it's not hard to replace, just get stuff out of the way and go from there.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I still think the best place for the motor/frame ground is to use one of the bolts for the starter. It draws more power than anything in the car, having a ground as short as possible to it can only help IMO. Besides that unless your running long tubes it is fairly easy to get to assuming you don't think getting under the car for a little bit is too big of a deal.
