Strange problem tonight, i got in my car and started it and the ebrake light ABS and low oil lights were all on then i push the clutch in and get this screeching noise every time i push in and my windows wont roll down or anything either. So i park turn off the car and start it again and everything is fine no lights on the panel and all windows work and no weird grind noise. I just replaced my clutch and everything down there a year ago and it doesnt really sound like a clutch problem anyways. Starter maybe?
Need help
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CC'S95GT
Post Whore
maybe an alternator
i dont think its your alternator.....im thinkin more like a bad ground....shorted to power or ground wires...just my opinion
ive seen and had alternators that test good everytime but still cause a parasidic draw (power drain) due to the diod being bad.....if you want to check for a power draw its easy and you could do it really easy in a garage over night or if you have nothin else to do for about 30 minutes or so for a short test....heres the rap sheet...get a digital volt ohm meter if you dont have one...maybe barrow one but i think they are a good investment for anyone with a car like ourselves...a craftsman or other cheaper one will do fine for this....on the good ones (maybe $100 max at sears) there is a min max record feature on them if you want to run a long test over night....tkae the negative battery cable off and set your meter to volts (millivolts) and put on lead to the battery terminal and one to the ground connector...so basically like making the meter apart of the circuit...kinda like a monitoring affect....and make sure the car is off and leave the trunk open the hood and the driver door just make sure to take a pen and latch the latches in the closed position to make the car think the doors are closed and pop out the door switch in the door that turns the light of and disconnect it...then just sit and watch...in my opinion anything over about 30-55 millivolts is a problem....less is better but if its like 39 dont worry about it.....but it takes about 20 minutes or so to let everything go to sleep and settle. then if its crazy....then start pulling fuses and or disconnecting stuff till it goes down...then what ever you unplug or take power from and its ok then thats your problem...but like i said i think its somthing else....maybe someone else will chime in and maybe have had a simular problem
ive seen and had alternators that test good everytime but still cause a parasidic draw (power drain) due to the diod being bad.....if you want to check for a power draw its easy and you could do it really easy in a garage over night or if you have nothin else to do for about 30 minutes or so for a short test....heres the rap sheet...get a digital volt ohm meter if you dont have one...maybe barrow one but i think they are a good investment for anyone with a car like ourselves...a craftsman or other cheaper one will do fine for this....on the good ones (maybe $100 max at sears) there is a min max record feature on them if you want to run a long test over night....tkae the negative battery cable off and set your meter to volts (millivolts) and put on lead to the battery terminal and one to the ground connector...so basically like making the meter apart of the circuit...kinda like a monitoring affect....and make sure the car is off and leave the trunk open the hood and the driver door just make sure to take a pen and latch the latches in the closed position to make the car think the doors are closed and pop out the door switch in the door that turns the light of and disconnect it...then just sit and watch...in my opinion anything over about 30-55 millivolts is a problem....less is better but if its like 39 dont worry about it.....but it takes about 20 minutes or so to let everything go to sleep and settle. then if its crazy....then start pulling fuses and or disconnecting stuff till it goes down...then what ever you unplug or take power from and its ok then thats your problem...but like i said i think its somthing else....maybe someone else will chime in and maybe have had a simular problem
Yeah maybe i will try that test. I agree i dont think its the alt. cause i have had alt problems before and it made my car run hella bad and all kinds of stuff was jacked up. I dont get why what that noise was everytime i pushed in the clutch it was nasty though. It hasnt dome it since though. May do some investigating tomorrow though.
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
hopefully that grinding noise isn't a bolt backing out of the flywheel it really sounds like 2 different probs. weird
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