TRUUBLE said:
Well . . . if there was a weak link in the motor, it was the rods. They were Eagle 4340 H-Beams and only rated for 750hp. I'm sure that one of em snapped, and it took out the one next to it. I'm probably going to step up to some Oliver Rods and a Callies crank. At the least, I'll step up to the top level Scat crank and rods.
I'll be able to figure out whether the rod just broke, or whether something caused it to break, when I pull the motor apart. I'm just hoping I don't find too much carnage.
Tad - just get the Callies crank and Oliver rods. Here's a short story about my 422...
I pulled my 418 and tore it down because it had been overheated and I wanted to make sure it was okay.
My Eagle 4340 H-beams (6.200") had hairline cracks after only 7,000 miles, about 40 dyno pulls, and a few track passes. The car only made 460rwhp/615rwtq which
should be well within the range of those rods. So much for that. Now I have Oliver billet rods so I don't have to worry about that crap anymore.
Then I bought a SCAT 4340 forged nitrided 4.100" crankshaft. After installing everything and firing the motor up, oil started POURING out of the bellhousing. I pulled everything back apart assuming I didn't put the rear main seal in right or something. It turns out the oil was coming
FROM THE CENTER OF THE CRANKSHAFT. :slap: This is no bullshit. The folks at SCAT bored the pilot bearing hole so deep it breached the oil passages in the crankshaft. I had to take everything out and fix it all over again. What a fucking debacle. I sent perfect clear pictures to SCAT along with a description of the problem, and never heard anything from them.
Buy the expensive stuff - hopefully their quality control doesn't suck as much as SCAT/Eagle.
Paul.