Nitrous and a Roots Supercharger

sneaky98gt

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Ok, I'm more or less thinking out loud here, as none of this will happen until this fall at the earliest. I was discussing future mods with a few other car guys this weekend, and they really got me thinking. This is gonna be long winded, but I hope you guys will read through and tell me what you think.


Short Version

What do you think of a VERY conservatively tuned, SMALL, 50 hp dry shot MAX, on my non-intercooled Eaton setup? I'm not looking to exceed 375 rwhp +/-. Would it be relatively safe?


Tom Clancy Version

So, my car is a street car, plain and simple. For those that don't know, I'm running a stock motor, stock auto transmission, stock rear gears, bolt on, non-intercooled roots-style supercharged car. While it does see the track several times through the year, it's primary purpose is to get me from point A to point B, to the tune of about 20,000 miles per year. While I like to go fast, and I don't mind paying for that, I dislike having to pay for it when I'm NOT going fast. Hence the reason I went with a blower instead of staying NA. Therefore, mods left to do to my car:

1. Gears. Would definitely see a nice gain at the track and in the SOTP meter with a set of 3.73s over the stock 3.27s. However, after doing lots of data collecting, it seems the average MPG loss on the highway when doing that swap is around 3 mpg. That doesn't sound like much, but over the course of 20,000 miles, with gas at $3.25 a gallon, it adds up. Add the installation cost, and we get $750 + $350/year.

2. Cams. Also would see a nice gain. Pretty high parts and labor price considering I'd have to get another tune. Also like gears, I suspect I'd see at least 3 mpg less in fuel mileage. Plus the loss of driveability. Bottom line, I'm looking at $1000 + $400/year and a loss in driveability, no matter how small.

3. Methanol + More Boost. While I'd see a nice 30-40 rwhp bump with no loss in fuel mileage or driveability from this (it would definitely get dyno tuned), I have two problems with doing it. First, the issue of daily driving it. I can either have it tuned to run the meth all the time (which would have me refilling it pretty often, i.e. expensive), or have a separate non-meth tune; the non-meth tune would be cheaper and easier, but I can't imagine 9 pounds of non-intercooled boost (ALL the time) being very friendly (or safe) in the hot summer months. My second problem with the methanol is the safety. If the car is tuned for using the methanol, and the meth system somehow fails, there is no good 'backup' to keep from exploding a few rings and subsequently destroying the motor. That doesn't make me feel very comfortable with it. Assuming I ran the methanol all the time, and it takes 1 gallon per tank of gas, I'm looking at $800 + $500/year.

4. Nitrous. My idea is to run a small (35-50 hp, absolutely no more) dry shot, primarily to cool the ridiculously hot intake charge. I like this because I'd get the same cooling effect of the methanol, but with the added benefit of a few extra oxygen molecules. I don't like the idea of a wet shot because of the risk of backfires, which would probably destroy my blower, plus the fact that a wet kit is more expensive/complicated. I see simplicity as a good thing in my case, and considering all the fuel upgrades I already have, I'm pretty sure a dry shot would satisfy my needs; I also seeing a tuned dry shot being "safe" in that some kind of nitrous system failure wouldn't really hurt anything, other than a decent ET. I'd like to get a confirmation, but I'm pretty sure my 90 mm Lightning MAF, 39 pound Cobra injectors, and SVT Focus fuel pump would provide enough fuel for a small shot. I would get a very, VERY conservative tune for the nitrous, which would ONLY be used at the track a few times a year, and leave my other (current) tune alone. This would leave my mileage and driveability untouched and exactly where I want it. Going by other people's estimates, one bottle would probably last me two track trips, which would amount to a generous $200/year in nitrous. Add the parts and tune, and I get $750 + $200/year.


What I want you guy's input on:
1. From the fuel mileage, driveability, SOTP meter, fun/$ aspects, would you choose the nitrous as well? From here on out, I'll assume you do.

2. Wet or dry? Is my above reasoning for getting a dry kit logical?

3. Are my 39 pound injectors, 90 mm MAF, and Focus pump enough for a 50 hp shot on top of my current setup?

4. What kind of power gains do you think I'd get with a 50 hp shot? Is a safe 50 rwhp possible? What kind of torque numbers would it make? 450+ rwtq? Considering that it would combine cooling and the extra oxygen, I think that it would be possible to get 75 rwhp out of a 50 hp shot, but I'd have it tuned way back down for safety's sake.

Finally, and most importantly, Safety.

What are your thoughts on the safety? Some places I've read say to go for it, but most people are like, "ZOMG you are totally gonna blow the motor if you even attempt that!!!! Forget it!!!" The problem with them is that I'm 99% sure they are assuming you're already running 9+ pounds of boost, already making 380+ rwhp, you're not going to tune it, and are going to spray a 125 hp shot on top of that. Well, yes, duh, it's not gonna last. In my situation, I'm talking a small, VERY conservatively TUNED, 50 hp MAX shot. 375 rwhp +/-. Which would only be used a few times a year anyway. Is 375 rwhp on a lower boost supercharged/nitrous car really any more dangerous than a 375 rwhp higher boost supercharged only car? I can't see why it would be. But maybe I'm misinformed. Inform me.

Torque. What are the limits of the stock motor in terms of torque? I suspect I'd make more than I'd think I would. Definitely 400+. Is that safe on a stock motor?

Bottom line
Nitrous Pros
1. Cheapest initial cost
2. Cheapest running cost
3. Best driveability situation
4. Best fuel mileage situation
5. Most power
6. "Safe" in that the consequences for a failure are small.

Nitrous Cons
1. Will the motor hold it....?
2. I know I'll probably want to pill it up sooner or later....:D


And I think that's it. Let me know your thoughts on this, even if you don't know anything about it. Looking to get a discussion going that will talk me into or out of my current little fad, and for the info of future inquirers (considering I couldn't find any good info on it).
 

95opal

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A 50 shot would be perfectly safe for your application. I will say this if your worried about a couple of pennys with a gear swap, filling the n2o bottle will also cost you a few pennys. Either way you look at it going fast or fatster than you are now is going to cost money.
 

Naptown_Stang

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I wouldn't do nitrous on a roots blower you may get away with a 50 shot but I dont think the motor will tolerate it after a prolonged period and you could find yourself with a blown engine.

1) How about a pulley upgrade along with a port and polish

2) I think meth might be a good choice for you. Yeah there are some risks but with everything its a good choice plus its safer on the motor.

3) Id look into some heads or a cam.

Bottom line is your going to be paying more either way. Its just a "pay me now pay me later thing" I sure wouldn't want you to blow her up.


I have a N/A setup and I love it but obviously thats not what you want. My buddy has a PP'd 98 cobra and that thing is really fun.
 

95opal

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Naptown_Stang said:
I wouldn't do nitrous on a roots blower you may get away with a 50 shot but I dont think the motor will tolerate it after a prolonged period and you could find yourself with a blown engine.

1) How about a pulley upgrade along with a port and polish

2) I think meth might be a good choice for you. Yeah there are some risks but with everything its a good choice plus its safer on the motor.

3) Id look into some heads or a cam.

Bottom line is your going to be paying more either way. Its just a "pay me now pay me later thing" I sure wouldn't want you to blow her up.


I have a N/A setup and I love it but obviously thats not what you want. My buddy has a PP'd 98 cobra and that thing is really fun.

If his motor wont hold a 50 shot hes got problems
 
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sneaky98gt

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95opal said:
A 50 shot would be perfectly safe for your application. I will say this if your worried about a couple of pennys with a gear swap, filling the n2o bottle will also cost you a few pennys. Either way you look at it going fast or fatster than you are now is going to cost money.

Yea, I know it costs, but the nitrous is actually the cheapest initial cost AND the cheapest running cost. The best thing about it is that it doesn't cost ANYTHING when I'm not at the track, unlike the other options.

Naptown_Stang said:
I wouldn't do nitrous on a roots blower you may get away with a 50 shot but I dont think the motor will tolerate it after a prolonged period and you could find yourself with a blown engine.

1) How about a pulley upgrade along with a port and polish

2) I think meth might be a good choice for you. Yeah there are some risks but with everything its a good choice plus its safer on the motor.

3) Id look into some heads or a cam.

Bottom line is your going to be paying more either way. Its just a "pay me now pay me later thing" I sure wouldn't want you to blow her up.


I have a N/A setup and I love it but obviously thats not what you want. My buddy has a PP'd 98 cobra and that thing is really fun.

1. Port and polish is out of my price range. Not to mention I MIGHT see 20 rwhp from it. A smaller pulley wouldn't come without methanol.
2. Meth is really the only other alternative to nitrous, and I'm not ruling it out. My main concern is that it won't get me the gains I'd like to see, and once I do it and pulley down, there's not much left to do as far as more power goes. And maybe I'm wrong, but I don't see why 375 rwhp with more boost and meth (all the time) is safer than 375 rwhp with just nitrous (only at the track).
3. Not in my budget at all.

Once again, I'm trying to stress (no pun intended) that if I were to do it, it would be ridiculously conservative. As in, I'd get the tuner to pull a few degrees of timing out after he felt good with it, on top of an AFR no leaner than 11.5.

95opal said:
If his motor wont hold a 50 shot hes got problems

Kinda my thinking, too, which is why I said this:

sneaky98gt said:
Is 375 rwhp on a lower boost supercharged/nitrous car really any more dangerous than a 375 rwhp higher boost supercharged only car? I can't see why it would be. But maybe I'm misinformed. Inform me.

375 hp seems like 375 hp to me.
 

BLCKSTNG96

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I don't see any issues with running a 50 shot,it will prob end up giving u even more then that bc Ur intake air temps are lowering as well.I would get a wet shot tho,dry shot is going to be more costly and for a simple 50 shot I see no point.everything u have would be fine.do u know how a dry and wet shot work and the differences or no?? I don't wanna ramble if Ur aware.
 
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sneaky98gt

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BLCKSTNG96 said:
I don't see any issues with running a 50 shot,it will prob end up giving u even more then that bc Ur intake air temps are lowering as well.

Yea, I'm guesstimating a solid 50 REAR WHEEL horsepower with a 50 hp shot, if not more. If it makes much more than that, I'll have the tuner back off the timing to get it to around 50 rwhp extra.

I would get a wet shot tho,dry shot is going to be more costly and for a simple 50 shot I see no point.everything u have would be fine.do u know how a dry and wet shot work and the differences or no?? I don't wanna ramble if Ur aware.

Yea, I know what the differences are, and I know the pros/cons of each kit if they were going on a mostly stock NA car. If this was just a bolt on GT, I'd go with a wet kit so I didn't have to upgrade the injectors and pump and such.

HOWEVER, I've already got injectors and a pump that are big enough to handle the fuel needed for a dry shot. With that being the case, is there really any disadvantage to running a dry shot? In this case, it's cheaper (all I have to get is the dry kit, no extra fuel stuff), it's safer (no backfires), and I can spray it lower in the rpm if needed to help get it out of the hole (2500 rpm is the lowest I'd go, vs. 3500 for a wet shot).

Do you see where I'm coming from? Does that make sense? Or am I ill-informed?
 

BLCKSTNG96

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nitrous backfires on wet kits are mostly due to intake design as well as spraying too early and or not having enough air coming into to move it,causing the fuel to puddle and explode.wet kits coming in a 3000 rpm are just fine,idk if your running slicks but a lower hit then that will be useless without them and i also hope you plan on a window switch.i guess its personal preference more so at this small a shot.personally id go wet,i prob wouldnt go dry unless i was goin with a big shot like 200+.the only downfall i see of a wet shot is it gets a very brief lean spike bc your pulling the fuel from the rail but i dont think you should have any problems with puddling and backfires.are the costs really that much diff.harris speedworks makes a good kit at a really good price.also thier controler is an unbeatable deal for all the functions it has.
 
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sneaky98gt

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BLCKSTNG96 said:
nitrous backfires on wet kits are mostly due to intake design as well as spraying too early and or not having enough air coming into to move it,causing the fuel to puddle and explode.wet kits coming in a 3000 rpm are just fine,idk if your running slicks but a lower hit then that will be useless without them and i also hope you plan on a window switch.i guess its personal preference more so at this small a shot.personally id go wet,i prob wouldnt go dry unless i was goin with a big shot like 200+.the only downfall i see of a wet shot is it gets a very brief lean spike bc your pulling the fuel from the rail but i dont think you should have any problems with puddling and backfires.are the costs really that much diff.harris speedworks makes a good kit at a really good price.also thier controler is an unbeatable deal for all the functions it has.

Yea, the lean spike is another worry I have with a wet shot as well.

My car is an automatic on the stock 3.27 rear gears. I launch at around 1800-2000 rpm, depending on the temperature outside. I'm running drag radials, and traction is not currently a problem at all. With the stock stall and rear gears, I can only leave but so hard; the back tires start breaking loose around 2000 rpm typically, and so that's all I can launch at. Even with the roots style blower, I'm just not making enough power that low in the rpm range to effectively get the car moving. Low 1.8 60's are about as good as I can get, which are power limited, not traction limited.

My plan is to have the spray come in (via window switch) just after I leave the line. About 2500 rpm would be more ideal than 3000 in that it allows that amount extra time with the spray to lower my 60'. Launching like that would allow the car to just get moving and a good load on the rear tires before the hit came in, which would hopefully allow the tires to keep traction. If not, I'd up the start window by a hundred rpm until it would hook.

Yes, the prices are a good bit different. A wet kit is around $200 more than a dry kit.

If I do this, I'm planning on buying the HSW kit and controller. I've heard nothing but good things about that company and their products.
 

DropTopPony

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I think your estimates for the meth are uber high. You can run windshield washer (33% methanol) fluid which is what $1.50 a gallon? You also set the meth up to where its only running at a certain boost level and higher so its not always on a constant drain. Most people fill up the meth tank when they fill up the gas tank and I generally fill up once a week so I doubt you will use enough meth to get close to $500 a year in costs.

A 50hp shot of Nitrous would be nice also. Terminators respond well to a 50-75 shot so a non IC'd Eaton would do that much better with it IMO.
 
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sneaky98gt

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DropTopPony said:
I think your estimates for the meth are uber high. You can run windshield washer (33% methanol) fluid which is what $1.50 a gallon? You also set the meth up to where its only running at a certain boost level and higher so its not always on a constant drain. Most people fill up the meth tank when they fill up the gas tank and I generally fill up once a week so I doubt you will use enough meth to get close to $500 a year in costs.

A 50hp shot of Nitrous would be nice also. Terminators respond well to a 50-75 shot so a non IC'd Eaton would do that much better with it IMO.

Yea, I talked to my tuner today. He told me to forget about the nitrous idea. He said that he would never feel comfortable tuning it on a stock bottom end.

He did highly recommend more boost (9ish pounds) and methanol. As you said, he said that I could set it to come on only after 4 or so pounds of boost, which would eliminate almost any usage during daily driving. He also said that if I relocated the IAT sensor to the exhaust side of the blower (like I was talking about on the TCCoA), that he could tune it to make power, but to pull timing and be safe if something were to happen to the methanol. He definitely cleared up a lot of my worries about the methanol.

Also, my tuner sells Snow products at a good bit below the prices I've seen elsewhere, and he said that I'd get a good bit off the tune since I've dealt with them before. When it's all said and done, it'd be less than $500 for the meth and a dyno tune. He guessed I'd make a solid 40+ rwhp and probably 50+ rwtq, which is exactly where I want to be anyway. If/when I get a job this summer/fall, I'm gonna go for it.

Where do we buy pulleys for these blowers? And what size would I need for 9-10 pounds of boost?
 

DropTopPony

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I bought my 9lb pulley from ASP a few years ago. Its a 3.3 inch and was @$100 shipped.

Check the guys on Tccoa, they might have a few extra for sale.
 

DropTopPony

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And do you know which IAT they are using for the relocation and do we need a harness extension? I think I am going to move mine.
 

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