Nitrous questions....again...

1996mustangGT

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WHAT THE HELL IS SO WRONG SPRAYING UNDER 3K????? Everyone here local I've talked to says that they dont run a Window switch and just spray off the line/outta the hole and never have any problems???
Im jetting for around a 125 shot. Prob run nitrous jet for 100 and fuel for 125 just to be safe before i throw the 255lbh fuel pump in.

helppppppp
 

blown98gt

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puddling in the intake from not enough air going through, then a big puddle being sucked into your motor and causing it to explode? the chance of sputter and then too much being sucked in at one time.. i dunno

a lot of people i've seen open the bottle and spray off the line but are launching at 4K/+ Rpms i think it's more of maybe not being at wot and not getting the correct mixture ya know?

to me it's more about safety you put money into something why not make sure it's going to last and be safe? i think WOT and Digital RPM switch are the best combo, then you only spray at WOT and at desired RPM Ranges this makes it easier for a tuner and in the end you'll probably gain more hp off of it on a tune
 

Untame-d

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Pooling is correct. Running Nitrous at low rpm will create a lean mixture of more nitrous then fuel and then boom, detonation. You'll be lucky if your intake only gets the blast. It can also detonate if you hit the the rev limiter because the fuel cut-off will make it run lean with nitrous. A window switch is pretty necessary IMO.

What kind of kit are you running?

My Zex wet kit has a TPS (throttle position sensor) in the kit with the module, AKA WOT switch. I have also bought the window switch and will be programming it for 3200-5800 RPM with a 125 shot.

I'm not sure if your familiar with nitrous preparation. I would also recommend that you use Iridium plugs if you currently have platinums because the nitrous tends to melt the compound on the tips of the platinums and they will fall right into your cylinders. :confused1:

Also about your jetting before your fuel pump... you can run up to 20hp/shot per cylinder on a stock motor with stock fuel pump, so that leaves us the freedom of up to a 160 shot. I would recommend lower than that though. The shot also fluctuates with tank pressure and temperature.
 
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1996mustangGT

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Untame-d said:
Pooling is correct. Running Nitrous at low rpm will create a lean mixture of more nitrous then fuel and then boom, detonation. You'll be lucky if your intake only gets the blast. It can also detonate if you hit the the rev limiter because the fuel cut-off will make it run lean with nitrous. A window switch is pretty necessary IMO.

What kind of kit are you running?

My Zex wet kit has a TPS (throttle position sensor) in the kit with the module, AKA WOT switch. I have also bought the window switch and will be programming it for 3200-5800 RPM with a 125 shot.

I'm not sure if your familiar with nitrous preparation. I would also recommend that you use Iridium plugs if you currently have platinums because the nitrous tends to melt the compound on the tips of the platinums and they will fall right into your cylinders. :confused1:

Also about your jetting before your fuel pump... you can run up to 20hp/shot per cylinder on a stock motor with stock fuel pump, so that leaves us the freedom of up to a 160 shot. I would recommend lower than that though. The shot also fluctuates with tank pressure and temperature.
Nice respose man, thanks!

Im jetting for a 125 shot, Its a Cold Fusion Kit. I already have the WOT switch, and Ill prob get the window switch eventually, just not right now.

I've also heard its a bit of a precaustion to run one fuel jet bigger to be safe...it cuts down power but is safer?

Thanks for the help guys
 

SVTurbo 98

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I'd get the window switch especially if you have a 5 speed. Without it you can't safely go wot below 3000ish rpms and you can't miss a gear/hit the rev limiter with the arming switch activated ....unless of course you're in the market for a new engine. It's just one of those safety items that IMO should be included in the kits because they are that important. I had a window switch set from 3k-6k on my old 306 and probably sprayed 50+ bottles thru it without one issue (150 shot).

Btw the jets they give you are a tad on the rich side so you shouldn't need to put in a bigger fuel jet.....just make sure you have enough fuel pump to support the shot you choose and pull a little timing. Then check the plugs afterwards to make sure all is well. Good luck. Nitrous is fun and addicting.
 

Untame-d

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I'm guessing it is a wet kit from seeing you have a fuel jet right?

You should jet them the same or appropriately according to the directions or kit to get the proper Air/fuel ratio.
 

SVTurbo 98

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Untame-d said:
You should jet them the same or appropriately according to the directions or kit to get the proper Air/fuel ratio.

^ agreed


1996mustangGT said:
Prob run nitrous jet for 100 and fuel for 125 just to be safe before i throw the 255lbh fuel pump in.

With nitrous, being too rich can be just as bad as too lean so jetting it like that will not be safe at all. Just put the proper jets in and, if you already have it, install the 255 pump
 

SVTurbo 98

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I always used the standard plugs just a couple heat ranges cooler. Like autolite 23's instead of 25's for e7s. And autolite 3923's for aftermarket heads. They're cheap and they work fine.
 

NXcoupe

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Stay away from Iridium plugs if for no other reason than they are just way too expensive. They won't produce any more power and they can experience spark blow out very easily compared to a copper plug. If Iridiums were the saviour that the plug companies would make you believe, everyone in my class would be running them. And frankly, none of us are. The best plugs for your average joe to buy for a nitrous car are the autolites one to two heat ranges colder. NGK's also work well in them and both are cheap. A platinum plug can't be used because of the flame blow out I mentioned earlier. If you don't believe me, make three passes and average them, then put in a set of cheapies and make three passes. They will be the same or maybe the cheapies will be faster because you could be experiencing flame blow out. I am not trying to be a jerk, no emotion here at all. I just hate the propaganda the plug companies put out there to get people to spend their hard earned bucks on the latest mouse trap. They were trying to get some of us to run their plugs but everyone slowed down running them, and at the rate we burn them up, we'd go broke!
As for the starter of this thread, your stock pump will not be able to keep up with the demand of a wet kit. It will go lean instantly and stay that way till something craps out. I have built engines for quite a few guys that put nitrous kits on with stock fuel pumps, they just can't keep up. Hope this helps.
 

Untame-d

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I'm pretty sure there is a safe limited shot that can be ran on the mustang GT fuel pump.

And on another note how difficult would it be to change the fuel pump?
 

blown98gt

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it's very easy... you are just changing the pump in the housing and i didn't even disconnect all the lines going to the tank just used a jack and lowered the tank some at an angle and then pulled out the pump housing and then the pump looks like this when it's out..

SVTFocusPump_03.jpg
 

NXcoupe

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On a 94-97 it's just like a fox body, no plastic pail. Really not hard at all considering the alternatives. Maybe there is a shot that a stocker will work with, you post up what your results are.
 

NXcoupe

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I remember that video. Keeps me on the conservative side of things.
 
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1996mustangGT

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Just an update...
Running a 125 shot...one step colder plugs (stock type). Spraying around 2000 RPM's and above..Running a WOT switch and thats it.

Not a single problem after 2 15 lb bottles so far!!
 

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