Oil Pressure Switch (Sending Unit)

[dustinv]

After changing mine out this weekend, I thought this would be helpful.

The symptoms I experienced of a failing oil pressure switch:
1. Low oil pressure gauge reading. At startup, it would hover around 60% or between the "R" and "M" in NORMAL. After a few minutes of driving, it would fall as low as the "N".
2. Erratic readings on the gauge. When the fan would come on, or any other drain on the electrical system, the reading on the oil pressure guage would bounce around.

If you are having any abnormal readings on your oil pressure gaugue and your car is still running good with no CELs, changing your oil pressure switch would be a good first place to start. It is very easy and inexpensive to do.

For 1996 models, depending on the production date of your Cobra, you will either need a switch with "light" or with "gauge". Apparently Ford changed the design at somepoint during the '96 production line. (Mine took a switch with "gauge"). Someone can chime in if you know the difference between the two.
For 97-98 models, you will need a switch with "light". Not sure about '99 and up models.

The oil pressure switch is located next to the oil filter facing the front of the car and is threaded into the block. A small wire is connected to the switch. Remove this connected wire to get a socket on the switch. The switch requires a 1 1/16 inch socket. There is a socket at your local parts store that is designed to fit oil pressure switches perfectly. You can also use a wrench to remove the switch from the block if you have one that size. If the engine is still warm when you remove the old switch, you will most likely lose a little oil, so make sure to add a little back after you're done. Compare the old to the new switch before installing the new one. They should look the same.

After installing your new oil pressure switch, crank the vehicle and ensure the oil pressure guage gives a good reading. This should fix any issues. If you continue to have a low oil pressure reading, it would be wise to check the ACTUAL oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Hope this helps.

 

[duff daddy]

Before assuming that the Oil Pressure switch is at fault, wouldnt it be more prudent to check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? Its cheaper to check physical pressure prior to spending money to replace the switch. THis is part of the Diagnose and Repair process rather then replacing parts to diagnose.

 

[dustinv]

Before assuming that the Oil Pressure switch is at fault, wouldnt it be more prudent to check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? Its cheaper to check physical pressure prior to spending money to replace the switch. THis is part of the Diagnose and Repair process rather then replacing parts to diagnose.

Buying the switch at $5 was a whole lot cheaper than buying an oil pressure gauge at the parts store or paying a shop the typical $19.95 (if not more) to do it. Sure, if you have one, then yea, go for it. Just from what I've read, the switch is the culprit 99% of the time.

 

[duff daddy]

I'm not here to say your wrong or correct, I see this every day with my line of work. If you assume 99% of the time you get bit quite often. If the problem is diagnosed, then repaired, that gives you the best chance for a non-comeback repair.

 

[dustinv]

I'm not here to say your wrong or correct, I see this every day with my line of work. If you assume 99% of the time you get bit quite often. If the problem is diagnosed, then repaired, that gives you the best chance for a non-comeback repair.

I completely agree. If it was a high $$ item, then I would definitely diagnose before buy. For something like this where the repair was easier/cheaper than the diagnosis, I think it's worth a shot.

 

[vermilion]

i agree with both. so i done both.