Parts list for converting to automatic?

[Ronin]

Ok, assume I'm 16 and have no clue about transmissions (I do, but just do it just in case). I'm considering a change to automatic, with eventual power potential in the 500-700 WHP range (it's a pipe dream now, just want to know). Aside from the transmission itself (I'm thinking maybe a TCI unit), torque converter, and shifter, what else do I need? And what would people recommend?

 

[330CubeGt]

Just went from T 45 to 4R70W. You need a flexplate, shifter/cable, crossmember, auto driveshaft or just the auto yoke as it fits the 5 spd shaft. If your going full man. Valve body no computer is needed. But if you keep it electronically controlled you will need a auto computer, auto computer wireing harness and the harness for the transmission.

My tranny should handle the kind of power your talking and im $900 into parts alone. Roughly $1200 total with price of stock trans etc.

A big ass transmission cooler maybe with a e fan is deff a priority if you want to run any kind of stall as they create a ton of heat and you want the trans as cool as possible.

 

[Ronin]

awesome, thanks for the information!

 

[330CubeGt]

No prob, if you want to put a C4 behind the mod motor there is a entirely different list of things you need and a lot more cash to boot

 

[Nightmare]

He beat me.....
Now I have done this swap to a few 5.0 foxes, and the clutch pedal had to be used to start the car because of the neutral safety switch. I don't know if you will need it with the mod motor ones.

 

[Ronin]

No prob, if you want to put a C4 behind the mod motor there is a entirely different list of things you need and a lot more cash to boot

Ok, I'm researching this parts list, and having had no experience with performance and automatics, what exactly is a manual valve body? And if I understand Nightmare right, I'll still have my clutch pedal and have to depress it to start the car?

 

[330CubeGt]

Man. Valve body kits are sold by transgo they make shift kits. It mKes your automatic manual shift.So o.you have to shift it at all times. I depress my clutch pedal to start mine still because im no done the swap. Im either removing the. Clutch pedal and looping the switch or swapping in some auto pedal assem. Either way its fairly easy.

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

I've heard a ton of negativity about Transgo although no personal experience myself. For a 4r70w/4r75w just J-mod it and let it go. 70w with a J-mod is good to 500ft lbs, the 75 is good for more. I'm currently in the process of swapping in a 75w into my 98 and I already know I'm going to run into a few issues. The 75 is the harder of the 2 to swap, I'm going to need at least a full engine/ECU harness, convert to COP and hope that I can re-pin my dash harness or I'll have to swap that too and a 99-up cluster. Wiring issues aside you'll need:

-Transmission
-Automatic Pedal box assy
-Flexplate (6 bolt for GTs)
-Starter plate
-Crossmember
-Auto DS yoke (if you have an aluminum DS) or auto DS
-Shifter/cables/brackets
-Automatic transmission harness
-Automatic computer from your year
-Cooler/lines

Also note that the 98-up 4r70ws are the ones to get if you go with a 70w and also note that only the 98s are guaranteed to have a VSS gear on the tailshaft. I hear that most 99/00 units have it but just have a blocker plate on the VSS port but no guarantees. You'll also have to get PATS disabled when you swap computers unless the guy has the keys with the computer.

For my swap to a 75w I am going to have to do a full engine/trans/ecu harness swap as well as an 04 computer. This is another thing to think of, IF you ever do get a 500+whp car that is 9 or 10 second capable, the regular GT computers are not fast enough to keep up sometimes. If you have a fast enough/powerful enough car you'll bang off the limiter before the computer can shift. Solutions for this are a standalone Baumann unit, full manual valve body or what I'm doing which is the 03/04 SYM2 processor (Mach 1 automatic ECU). The Mach computer is the only OEM one that is fast enough to keep up and this is proven. 04Ryan had a 04 GT turbocharged near 700whp and low 10s/high 9s with no issues being shifted by the SYM2. I also talked to a few speed shops myself including Kevin at Wicked Motorsports which is like 15 minutes from me. He said he's always had issues with Baumann standalones and he recommended I swap the ECU/Engine/Trans harness and run the SYM2 computer. This week coming up I am going to try to get my t45 out and get this show on the road so hopefully I'll have some firsthand advice then as far as the swap itself.

Oh, also, get yourself a good converter. I got a package deal from a guy who swapped his 04 Mach 1 to a T-56 magnum. He had a P.I. Stallion 3500 RPM lockup stall in his and I jumped all over that as the whole car had 16k on the odo. P.I. is regarded as one of the top companies out there but they are very pricey if you buy new. Another more budget friendly option is Freakshow converters in Texas. He has like a bazillion% positive feedback and his best converter stalled to any RPM you want is $599 IIRC and good for way more power than you'll ever make unless you are making 4 figures or something.

 

[Ronin]

Thanks for the reply, Scotty. I'm running an SCT chip right now, I'm guessing if I swap ECUs I'll need to have it reprogrammed, right? How about this as an alternative to Transgo:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa45304?seid=google&gclid=CNfuyu2sgLYCFag7MgodOyoAFw

And on that note, what kind of shifter, or is it just personal preference?

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Eh, aftermarket or stock... personal preference. If stock I'd suggest the 99-04 shifter because it has the OD switch on the handle which is nicer. But there is something to be said about the B&M Hammer. Its calling out to me...

 

[Ronin]

The hammer does look awesome...if you don't have the 99-04, where does the OD switch go? do you have to wire it elsewhere?

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

OD switch for a 94-98 is on the right side of the shifter base. Right where the red button is on the B&M shifter.

 

[rz5.0]

I went the other way on one of my cars and the auto has a different steering column with a cable that goes to the shifter..

 

[Ronin]

OD switch for a 94-98 is on the right side of the shifter base. Right where the red button is on the B&M shifter.

Awesome, thanks. You also mentioned the VSS gear, in case I can't get a 98, what do I do about speedo adjustments (as I have the 3.73 gears)?

 

[Ronin]

Awesome, thanks. You also mentioned the VSS gear, in case I can't get a 98, what do I do about speedo adjustments (as I have the 3.73 gears)?

In addition to this question, now I have more. I started thinking that this may not be the path for me, that maybe I should just stick with the manual as I've had stick cars all my life, just need to man up and live with it. So I start looking into replacement options, and it gets ludicrously expensive fast.

1. Does no one make a beefed up direct replacement to the factory T-45?
2. Or are you stuck spending $4,000+ on a magnum kit, or some other swap that will entail custom work?

If I do end up going automatic, these are my remaining questions:

1. If I can't find a 98 transmission, how do I manage speedometer adjustments?
2. For the ECU and harness, I'm guessing my only option is used, and it has to match the year of the transmission?
3. How necessary is a transmission cooler if I'm sitting at about 300-310 WHP? I ask because the last thing I need is one more thing blocking my radiator (that's where they sit, right?), since I can barely drive the Mustang during the summer due to heat.


I think I misunderstood when you were describing what you're doing, Scotty. For your swap with the SYM2, you need the full wiring harness plus the ECU, and that will work with a 4R70W and/or a 4R75W?

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

In addition to this question, now I have more. I started thinking that this may not be the path for me, that maybe I should just stick with the manual as I've had stick cars all my life, just need to man up and live with it. So I start looking into replacement options, and it gets ludicrously expensive fast.

1. Does no one make a beefed up direct replacement to the factory T-45?

Yes, www.thet45source.com will rebuild your T-45 to be good up to 600ft lbs+ with a 26 spline input shaft and slammer shift forks.

2. Or are you stuck spending $4,000+ on a magnum kit, or some other swap that will entail custom work?

No, see above. I personally think the T-56 is a waste of money unless you are going for all out top end and need the .50 final 6th gear ratio found on some T-56s

If I do end up going automatic, these are my remaining questions:

1. If I can't find a 98 transmission, how do I manage speedometer adjustments?

If you have a 4r70w without a VSS provision, you can swap a VSS provisioned tailshaft and housing yourself and they go for about $75 for the both of them on the evilbays. Or you swap to a 99-03 computer, ECU/Engine/Trans harness. Or if you are doing the 75w like I am you swap to the 04 stuff. You can also TRY to use an extended range speedcal to convert the OSS signal to VSS

2. For the ECU and harness, I'm guessing my only option is used, and it has to match the year of the transmission?

If you pay new, prepare to lube up... Used is fine just gotta make sure you are buying stuff with all the connectors in good shape and the right ECU.

3. How necessary is a transmission cooler if I'm sitting at about 300-310 WHP? I ask because the last thing I need is one more thing blocking my radiator (that's where they sit, right?), since I can barely drive the Mustang during the summer due to heat.

Biggest trans cooler you can fit in there should go in there. Properly setup, there should be no reason you can't drive your car even in extreme heat.

I think I misunderstood when you were describing what you're doing, Scotty. For your swap with the SYM2, you need the full wiring harness plus the ECU, and that will work with a 4R70W and/or a 4R75W?

What I am doing is using the best OEM computer available and a better starting transmission in the 4r75w. The 70w and 75w are not plug and play with other platforms. The 04 computers have to be tuned differently as the 75w has a different ring gear.

Hope this answered your questions.

 

[Ronin]

Hope this answered your questions.

It does, thank you very much! What I meant by barely being able to drive during the summer is with my IC blocking half my radiator, she gets REALLY hot (to the "A" in NORMAL and possibly higher). Maybe it's because I cut corners with the Mishimoto, I just haven't been able to bring myself to drop another $450 on a Fluidyn (since it's not my only car).

 

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Get an aftermarket gauge and figure out what your actual temps are. Change the water pump if you haven't already, 180 degree tstat, new coolant and make sure your fans are kicking on. If not... Mishimoto radiators are so hit or miss. Honestly I'd put a new stock one back in and call it good. Stock rads are good for everything but the craziest ass of setups.