Im having a hell of a time trying to figure out what is wrong with my car after the pi swap. It runs like total ass. I got a new code to come up on the xcal 3 its p1729 4x4l switch? What does this mean? I have done a google search and have found nothing. Any help would be appreciated.
PLZ HELP!!!! p1729
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pp_puncher
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you have an auto, all auto trans codes are P17xx codes. That's as much info I got.
Yeah I know its a tranny code just not sure what? The car stumbles and bucks when it warms up. I just replace some bad 02 sensors and that did not help. cleaned maf, put new plugs in it. Kinda wish I would of just kept the car stock. :dontknow:
pp_puncher
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did you get a tune with those cams?
pp_puncher
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actually I noticed you don't have lowering springs in your sig. maybe the code is accurate? LOL
pp_puncher
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It was a joke...."lowering spring would fix the 4x4 code"
mygreengt
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your avatar is kinda weird
pp_puncher
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I know, I'm too scared to take it down.....
Re: PLZ HELP!!!! problems after pi swap.
Well I had a buddy of mine tell me there is a TSB for this code. TSB #14310 it basically says that some vehicles will get this error in continuous memory for no reason. It seems to run worse when it is warmed up all the way. It struggles in the lower rmps and bogs and shudders really bad. Once I get the rpms up above 4,000 it screams. maybee my plug wires or coils are bad. I bought msd plug wires and coils 2years ago. Also I thought maybee it could be a fuel regulator or bad fuel pump. 24lbs injectors were put on the car when the pi swap was done. I wonder if theres a problem with the install of the injectors or the maf not working with the injectors is causing a problem. I changed the fuel filter a couple of summers ago. I don't put very many miles on it each year. I drove it less than 3,000 miles the last couple summers.
Well I had a buddy of mine tell me there is a TSB for this code. TSB #14310 it basically says that some vehicles will get this error in continuous memory for no reason. It seems to run worse when it is warmed up all the way. It struggles in the lower rmps and bogs and shudders really bad. Once I get the rpms up above 4,000 it screams. maybee my plug wires or coils are bad. I bought msd plug wires and coils 2years ago. Also I thought maybee it could be a fuel regulator or bad fuel pump. 24lbs injectors were put on the car when the pi swap was done. I wonder if theres a problem with the install of the injectors or the maf not working with the injectors is causing a problem. I changed the fuel filter a couple of summers ago. I don't put very many miles on it each year. I drove it less than 3,000 miles the last couple summers.
Cruizin GT
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Did you upgrade your converter to a higher stall to go with those stage 2 cams???
nyuk98gt
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dutman98:
I usually have that code lurking but it (obviously) doesn't trip the check engine light. I don't know why the codes comes up but it doesn't cause any operating issues.
Your plug wires or boots may be at fault. Here are some things to check. First, use an old plug to check/confirm that the plug wire connector snaps onto the top of the plug. The boot slides on the wire and if the boot is too far down on the wire (or, the wire is pulled too high up in the boot) then the metal connector will not contact the plug properly and a miss will develop. Next, check the resistance of the wires. You need to measure the length of the wires, too, so you can calculate "ohms per foot". I don't remember the ohms/ft range that is OK but your wires should all be within the same range. If one is much higher then you need a new plug wire or two. Next, confirm that you have the plug wires on the correct coil pack terminals. It is easy to get them fouled up. Last thing is to confirm that the inlet air temperature sensor is plugged in the intake tube, there are no vacuum leaks, and that you have the ECT sensor and the ECT gauge sensor in the correct spots.
I did find pp_puncher's quip about lowering springs to be amusing. Our model years do have a 4x4 look.
Chris
I usually have that code lurking but it (obviously) doesn't trip the check engine light. I don't know why the codes comes up but it doesn't cause any operating issues.
Your plug wires or boots may be at fault. Here are some things to check. First, use an old plug to check/confirm that the plug wire connector snaps onto the top of the plug. The boot slides on the wire and if the boot is too far down on the wire (or, the wire is pulled too high up in the boot) then the metal connector will not contact the plug properly and a miss will develop. Next, check the resistance of the wires. You need to measure the length of the wires, too, so you can calculate "ohms per foot". I don't remember the ohms/ft range that is OK but your wires should all be within the same range. If one is much higher then you need a new plug wire or two. Next, confirm that you have the plug wires on the correct coil pack terminals. It is easy to get them fouled up. Last thing is to confirm that the inlet air temperature sensor is plugged in the intake tube, there are no vacuum leaks, and that you have the ECT sensor and the ECT gauge sensor in the correct spots.
I did find pp_puncher's quip about lowering springs to be amusing. Our model years do have a 4x4 look.
Chris
Willis_98GT
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my car did the same thing. wires fixed it
![IMG_20140524_152057360_HDR[1]](/data/xfmg/thumbnail/0/66-1b90088565df25d76ff5bd73b7f47142.jpg?1623783787)
