badass98svt
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NooooooooooNew engine for the SN View attachment 24266
NooooooooooNew engine for the SN View attachment 24266
These are rolled beef green chili tacosoh man not the green chili?! When I moved from indiana to Az I learned about how some people are addicted to it.
anytime I found someone saying "authentic mexican" I found it just meant it was bland tasting till there was enough hot sauce on it and it gave me the craps 30 mins later but as I said I am tried and true gringo from the midwest.These are rolled beef green chili tacos
Pretty much authentic Mexican made
I forgot to get you this info, but I’ll try to get it this evening. If I remember correctly, it’s a nitrous window switch that he uses.Yea, definitely interested to know more as you go through the paces of getting it installed, particularly with regards to this WOT cutout module and how exactly it'll tap in to the pedal wire(s). Cool stuff. I hope to just buy the module and duplicate it.
Quite coincidentally, I got my CCRM to be the sole means of activating fan because I'm trying to have it solely manage cooing and A/C operations (which have to involve the fan as well). So far, so good!
Is there any way you could tell me which ecu pin that fuel pump trigger is?Yes, Gen 2. Yes to both actually. Key on wakes up the FRPP control pack ECU which in turn blips the fuel blunt or flying lead or whatever you want to call it to trigger the pumps at key-on. Once cranked and running it'll obviously remain on. I have the outptut wire snaked alongside the OEM 1996 wire where it takes its place going into the inertia crash switch (and the OEM wire is just hank taped onto itself so it doesn't arc on anything; I might just use it as a key-on relay trigger wire for whatever extra shit I install towards the back of the car like a the diff pump). Right after that inertia switch is a standard 40A [fused] relay since each of the two pumps will draw about 15 - 17 amps which leaves a nice bit of headroom for voltage spikes if they happen. And each pump is on its own 20A fuse as well. Can't really get much simpler.
Yeah, I have the generic Gen 1, but I did wire my pump a bit different by using the pump lead (from the PBH block) to power a relay in place of the FPDM and used the CCRM wire to feed the signal side via the Inertia Switch. A little redundant, but didn't want the IS controlling all the pump power load. Waiting for my Hydramat........Yes, Gen 2. Yes to both actually. Key on wakes up the FRPP control pack ECU which in turn blips the fuel blunt or flying lead or whatever you want to call it to trigger the pumps at key-on. Once cranked and running it'll obviously remain on. I have the outptut wire snaked alongside the OEM 1996 wire where it takes its place going into the inertia crash switch (and the OEM wire is just hank taped onto itself so it doesn't arc on anything; I might just use it as a key-on relay trigger wire for whatever extra shit I install towards the back of the car like a the diff pump). Right after that inertia switch is a standard 40A [fused] relay since each of the two pumps will draw about 15 - 17 amps which leaves a nice bit of headroom for voltage spikes if they happen. And each pump is on its own 20A fuse as well. Can't really get much simpler.
I have a brand new SVE differential cover I'd ship out for $100 if you or anyone is interested.Get ready View attachment 24325