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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Addicted" data-source="post: 1463009" data-attributes="member: 24638">To all the cam experts out there, this is for someone learning about our factory cam gears, and how they can be beneficial and a aggravation. I've searched far and wide for any good influences or ideas when it comes to locking the factory gears to not move when daily driven & being operated under abnormal conditions (pedal to the metal).  For all who are getting ready to tackle the job of swapping cams soon or someone reading this post 5 years from now, I would like to show you how I obtained my stranglehold over the factory gears from possibly moving down the road. First off, by now you have learned that our engines can be out (degree wise) from the factory by many degrees, but most are within 6* from each side. The growing consciences is that the "RH" Passenger side cam is advanced, and the "LH" Drivers side cam is most of the time retarded, some cases its spot on.  In my setup, I will be installing camshafts from Modular Head Shop, known as their NA Gen2 Stage2 , but I don't like using the word "stages" as a clarification, so get out of the habit of doing so! Mine are ground by Comp Cams at 224/226 duration .556"/.535" @.050, kinda smaller for a "Stage 2", most companies would indeed call these a "Stage 1" lol.   Anyways... what I'm getting at here is that my "RH" Pass. Side cam gear, which is know for its advancement, was as far as I could get it to move by the factory key way (Full Retard)<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick Out Tongue    :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" /><img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin    :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" />, lifter lash set at 0 lash. With Cam gear being full retarded by factory conditions, it still allowed for the MHS (.556" lift/ 224*In. dur. @ .050 110 ICL) camshaft to put my Intake Valves fully into the pistons, and stop me from rotating the engine. Also keep in mind that I had -.010" took off the valve margin to match my heads being decked -.010", using a used factory HG which measures at .036" crushed, on top of a untouched factory 4.6L block torqued to spec!!!!<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite5" alt=":confused:" title="Confused    :confused:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":confused:" />  Carefully go over the math, now...how many degrees you think that cam gear was advanced? Something to think about huh? With that being said, I did a little test with the "LH" Driver side cam gear. Instead of "Full Retard" (which you should never do!) Lol JK!.... Using the same system as above, I installed the "LH" Driver side cam gear all the way advanced, and it never kissed not the 1st piston. Pretty interesting huh? These camshaft gears that I used was off a 2006 Crown Vic. So the cliche of being newer, doesnt mean there more accurate, so remember that if your romanging for parts at your nearest parts yard. These pictures here, are to show how I'm keeping my camshaft from moving around, see the keyway. I bought extra stainless steel feeler gauges to cut up into tiny rectangles. I inserted these according to how far I need to move in either direction, and to fill the void on the opposite side of gear. By no means can these come out, unless the bolt & washer backs out, then that would be the least of your problems.  I will say thi for my application, and yours may differ somewhat from mine, but should be close though, within thousands. Whatever the measurements where when I moved the gear, the end of the valve was always .003" less than the total movement of the cam gear. THIS SHOWS HOW TIGHT OUR VALVETRAIN TOLERANCES ARE.   /EXAMPLE/ If I mmoved cam gear .010", it was .007 at the valve. If it was .005", it was .002 at the valve. NO MATTER THE DIRECTION, ADVANCED OR RETARDED! I took many hours, probably in the 30-40 hours to go over ever inch of valve train operation. One last thing, and this is my findings.EACH DEGREE I MOVED THE CAM GEAR, IT WAS WORTH BETWEEN .015" TO .017.5" OF MOVEMENT AT THE VALVE! (2* WAS WORTH .030"-.035)  I MUST ADD THAT PROPER LASH WAS ACHEIVED BEFORE I TOOK READINGS, SO BE SURE THAT ALL TOLERANCES ARE MET BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE MEASUREMENTS I HAVE SHOWED YOU. Sorry for yelling! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite9" alt=":eek:" title="Eek!    :eek:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":eek:" /><img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />  I ENDED UP TAKEING AN EXTRA .035" OF THE VALVE MARGIN AFTER ALL MEASUREMENTS WERE TOOK, BRINGING THE TOTAL OF VALVE MARGIN REMOVAL TO .045". THIS WILL GIVE ME PLENTY ROOM FOR CAMSHAFT ADVANCEMENT. THESE PICTURES SHOW THE FEELER GAGE RECTANGLES I MADE, AND THEM INSTALLED BETWEEN THE GEAR & CAM KEYWAY. ALSO SHOWS THE .045" I TOOK FROM VALVE MARGIN.   SO BY MY CALCULATIONS, THE EXTRA VALVE MARGIN WILL GIVE ME ANOTHER 2*-2.5* OF ADVANCEMENT. OVERALL I CAN INSTALL MY CAMS AT A 107* ICL & 110* ECL, WHILE MAINTAINING A .030" OF PTV.  THIS WILL GIVE ME A MIDRANGE BUMP, WITHOUT SACRIFICING THE TOP END. [ATTACH=full]4257[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]4259[/ATTACH]</blockquote>