Project SN95 Revival

SVTstang96

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Hey everyone! Here is a little background information about this project. I purchased the car on 7/25/13 from a guy on craigslist about 2 hours away from me. The car has been a midwestern car all its life. The previous owner purchased it in 2002 and in 2004 he parked it to replace the head gaskets. Well after some family issues he didn't have the time or resources to fix it. He parked it in the garage and let it sit for 9 years before he finally realized he wouldn't finish the car. Thats where I come in. I purchased the car for $850 with some extra parts like a Crane E303 302 Cam, Edelbrock 460 Cam, Crane 302 Valve Springs, Aluminum 302 3-Core Radiator. The car is in really good shape considering the age. The car has 158k miles, with no rips in the interior, or major body damage. There are some door dings and scratches, along with one tiny penny sized rust spot in the driver rear quarter panel. On the way home I picked up a 95 T-Bird 3.8L Engine and Transmission $350. To my surprise when I showed up I found out the transmission was rebuilt 500 miles ago, and at the same time they had the water pump, alternator, A/C Compressor, Serpentine Belt, and Gaskets replaced. Because it is a T-Bird engine there will need to be some changes and modifications to make it work in the stang. I will go into more depth on that later on in the post, but for now here are some pics of the car when I picked it up.

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The interior is a little dirty, but its nothing I can't clean up.

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Old 3.8L V6 engine and transmission removed from the car.

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Here is the 95' T-Bird engine and transmission that I picked up on the way home.

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Because the engine and transmission are out of a 95' T-Bird there are many things that need to be swapped over to make work. The major part is the ignition system. The T-Bird uses a distributor system where the mustang uses a coil pack system. To make this work you have to take the timing cover off the stang' engine, along with the harmonic balancer, coil pack bracket, coil pack, wires, and wiring harness then reinstall them on the T-Bird engine. You also have to swap the exhaust manifolds, and emission parts to work properly on the stang'. You will also have to take apart the A/C compressor from the T-Bird to make it work on the stang'. It's the same compressor but the switch mounted behind the clutch on it is in the wrong location. Simply remove the bolt on the clutch, then the c-clip and pull the clutch off. When the clutch is off take a gear puller and pull the sensor and housing off, rotate it 180 degrees to the left and reinstall everything. Another little thing that needs changing is the coolant temperature sensor on the T-Bird. They have it on the hose going from the block to the firewall for the heater box. On the stang, this is a hex screw for bleeding the air out of the system. Simply remove the sensor, and plug it with the screw from the stang'. On top of all these little differences you will also have to swap over the motor mounts, wiring, transmission fill tube, transmission wiring, crossmember, and coolant hoses. After all of this you are finally able to drop the engine into your stang'.

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I also replaced the transmission cable because it didn't want to shift smoothly. Thanks sleepn_sn95 for the cable!

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Tomorrow I hope to drop the engine in, fill it it up on fluids, connect everything and then finally get a new battery and start this thing for the first time in 9+ years!!!!
 

RichV

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Whatever you do, make sure the fuel tank gets drained of whatever stuff is in there. It will junk your injectors/fuel system in a heartbeat.

A buddy got a SVO that had not run in 10 years, the fuel had varnished up and he ended up having all sorts of fuel clogs until he replaced the fuel tank/pump.
 
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SVTstang96

SVTstang96

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Whatever you do, make sure the fuel tank gets drained of whatever stuff is in there. It will junk your injectors/fuel system in a heartbeat.

A buddy got a SVO that had not run in 10 years, the fuel had varnished up and he ended up having all sorts of fuel clogs until he replaced the fuel tank/pump.

I must have forgot to mention that, I have already planned for this. Thats on the list of plans for the day as long as the weather holds off. I might also replace the fuel pump also since I have one laying around with 30k miles on it. I also have to replace the rear brake lines since one is leaking, replace the broken pass. mirror, and then I can begin the cool stuff like a different set of rims, shorty antenna and some other misc. things. Nothing that special, but something to give it a little character and make it stand out from the other thousands of red sixxers. Anyone else have some ideas for cheap mods to make this car stand out a little?
 
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SVTstang96

SVTstang96

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Well I ran into a little problem today. Was in the process of installing the engine when trans. fluid began pouring out the back of the trans, this shouldn't happen when you still have the yolk installed. Anyways I later found out that T-Bird's have a larger driveshaft yolk, same splines and everything, but just a little larger in diameter. So the install is back on hold until I get the new output shaft seal. With the little bit of extra time I had, I shortened and polished the antenna. The ball at the top is drying at the moment so I haven't installed it yet. Pics to come.
 

krazyrabbit

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Nice car for a great price! Wish I had the skills to work more on my ride at home, the cost for shop installs is crazy.
 
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SVTstang96

SVTstang96

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Here is a little update for the few of you that are following my thread. I got the new rear seal in for the transmission and went to install it on the new transmission and it was too small. I went to install it on the old transmission and it fit fine. I ended up keeping the new transmission, but I had to swap the tailshaft housings to make the new seal work correctly. I was also able to get the engine installed. It was late so no pictures at the moment, but tomorrow I should upload some. I still have to connect some electrical and vac lines, charge the ac, install the radiator then connect the hoses and trans lines then top off all the fluids, pump the gas tank, and install a battery. Then it will be ready to go! Also I put a container of baking soda in the interior, along with some air fresheners and then let the car air out with the doors open. Its starting to smell a lot better, but I still need to powerwash the carpet, and clean the seats before it will really begin smelling good.
 
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SVTstang96

SVTstang96

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hm... strange that it didnt fit!

I agree. I've read that the 95 T-Birds actually have a 4R70W which would make sense why it didn't fit, but the transmission from the T-Bird looks just like the AODE from the Stang. Same length, sensors, mounts, and even all the same casting marks. Hell even the speed sensor, and output shaft are the same. Maybe it was just another one of those small differences between the T-Bird and the Stang. She's all sorted out now. I wasn't able to get pics again tonight but I did get the radiator installed, trans lines, finished off the electrical, installed the battery box, sorted out the ac system, and installed the overflow tank. Now I just have to tighten down the engine mounts to the k-member, and tighten the trans crossmember bolts, fill it with fluids, install the battery, flush the gas tank, and install the intake tubes and maf and she's ready to drive!!!
 
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SVTstang96

SVTstang96

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Well after a long week of work, I got back to working on the car again. After some more work I was able to get the engine buttoned up and ready to go. I began working on the interior smell and stains. After pulling everything in the interior but the dash I was able to begin cleaning it. I rented a RugDoctor with the Hand Tool from work and shampoo'd the carpet, seats, and trunk. This took care of all the stains and most of the smell. After vacuuming out the car, and washing it all out the smell is almost all gone. I left the fuel lines off to pump the tank. When I went to jump the relay for the fuel pump and nothing. After some testing and wire jumping I have come to conclusion that the fuel pump is bad, not uncommon for a car that has been sitting for 9 years. I have a spare pump that I can install overnight sometime this week. After knowing the fuel pump was bad, I wanted to test to see if the car would at least crank. Turned the key, and nothing. I traced some wires down, thinking it was a bad ground, and found a wire that got snagged while putting the engine in and broke the terminal at the end. Fixed the terminal with a new wire and it cranks!!! Now I just have to reinstall the interior, install the fuel pump, install new rear brake lines, and fill it with fluids then I can begin to polish the outside and enjoy it!
 
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SVTstang96

SVTstang96

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Got a lot done of the stang today! Decided to pull the fuel tank/pump from a 97 GT I have and drop it into the stang. Long story short I ran into some problems and ended up finding a hole in the main fuel lines from the engine to the tank so I had to pull the lines from the GT and put those on the V6 also. Took a while but its all back together with a new fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump and tank. I also fixed the shifter issue and installed a new shifter assembly since the old one was really hard to get out of park and into gear. I just have to fill it up with fluids, and a couple other small things. I have been thinking about getting some 99+ Cobra rims for it that I have found on the local CL. The guy wants $100 with new tires. The front two have cracked rims, but I found a guy selling 2 rims in perfect shape for another $100. So for $240 after having the tires swapped around I will have a perfect set of 99+ Cobra rims with new tires. I'm still undecided what to do with the car. I have a 96 Cobra which I love driving, I wouldn't mind keeping this V6 for the gas mileage for school, but I have a focus for that also. What would you guys do? Keep it or sell it? Here is some info about it.

95 V6 Auto
Metallic Red Paint 8.5/10
Black Power Cloth Interior 8/10
136k on the body
102k on the engine which has new plugs, wires, belt, alternator, a/c compressor, tensioner, idler, water pump, all new gaskets
500 miles on the rebuilt transmission with 36 mo/36k mile warranty
new rear brakes
new driver headlight
6k miles on the tires
15k miles on breaks
shorty antenna
black bumper inserts
black rear lower valance decal
10k miles on the radiator
new battery
alpine radio with stock speakers

the car is beginning to get some rust under the car around the rear bumper brace and on the front floor pans. Its nothing major or close to going through. I might take the wire wheel to it then have the car undercoated to prevent it from spreading or getting worse. Struts and shocks are getting close to the end of their life and may be replaced soon also. If I decide to sell the car they will be replaced with OEM spec ones.
 

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