Question- Alignment Report Numbers Needed~

robb15033 · Jun 27, 2011

I am installing new suspension parts and then driving directly to my alignment specialist shop. Can someone please tell me if I should have the machines align the car to manufacturer specs or should I make sure that certain parameters are set up for best tire ware?
My parts that come into affect:
17X9 Front Wheels & 17X10.5 wheels rear. (255/40-17 & 315/35-17)
-KYB Shocks/Struts (non adjustable)
-Ford Racing "B" Springs
-Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
-Steeda X2 Balljoints
-Maximum Motorsports Bumpsteer Kit
-Again, should I leave out of there with specific camber numbers set up ect.??
Thank You Again-Robb

Goindeafonmtx · Jun 27, 2011

Get as much caster as you can get while being even on both sides. I would keep camber on a street car no more negative than -1 degrees. And toe no more negative than -.625 degrees on both sides (toe out).

Question though. Did you bumpsteer the car yourself? Most shops won't do this because they aren't equipped to do so. You need to keep that in mind because if you bumpsteer the car after its been aligned, then you will have to do so again. And with a bumpsteer kit on the car without being properly set, can actually makes things worse. So that being said, have the car properly set up to negate bumpsteer or put factory replacement outer tie rods back on the car.

2slo95fiveoh · Jun 27, 2011

Goindeafonmtx said:
Get as much caster as you can get while being even on both sides. I would keep camber on a street car no more negative than -1 degrees. And toe no more negative than -0.1degrees on both sides (toe out).

Question though. Did you bumpsteer the car yourself? Most shops won't do this because they aren't equipped to do so. You need to keep that in mind because if you bumpsteer the car after its been aligned, then you will have to do so again. And with a bumpsteer kit on the car without being properly set, can actually makes things worse. So that being said, have the car properly set up to negate bumpsteer or put factory replacement outer tie rods back on the car.

Minor detail. To the OP, it really depends on what you want to do with the car. If you just cruise around town, just enjoying the car
but trying to keep tire wear to a minimum, I would just go with stock alignment settings. Factory Spec for camber is around -1.1 if i remember right. If
you just drive the car on the street, I don't think you will notice any difference in alignment tweaks. Just my 2 cents

MadStang · Jun 27, 2011

Here is what I recommend for Street alignment.

Our car's love Caster. since you have a bumpsteer kit you can REALLY go nuts with the caster. As for camber for a street driven vehicle I would not go more than -1.5? of camber. I'd stay around -1.0? personally. And run about .0625" worthe of toe in.

So here's what you're lookin' at:

6.5? of Caster
-1.0? of Camber
.0625" of toe in

EDIT: This site doesn't recognize the degree symbol so just pretend the question marks are degrees :violent1:

robb15033 · Jun 28, 2011

OK, Thanks. Yes I will have the bumpsteer on the car when I arrive. I stopped by the shop yesterday and discussed each item added to the car and he said no problem. He said that if bumpsteer adjustment went outside the normal time it takes to align a car, we would discuss rates. But- If a specific tool is needed to correct bumpsteer, what is it called? That way I can reassure myself that they have the tool and aren't bullshiting me.
I only use the car to cruise around.
So, everyone agrees on a -1 degrees camber and -.0625 but no more than -1 of toe in & 6.5 degrees caster??

2slo95fiveoh · Jun 29, 2011

robb15033 said:
OK, Thanks. Yes I will have the bumpsteer on the car when I arrive. I stopped by the shop yesterday and discussed each item added to the car and he said no problem. He said that if bumpsteer adjustment went outside the normal time it takes to align a car, we would discuss rates. But- If a specific tool is needed to correct bumpsteer, what is it called? That way I can reassure myself that they have the tool and aren't bullshiting me.
I only use the car to cruise around.
So, everyone agrees on a -1 degrees camber and -.0625 but no more than -1 of toe in & 6.5 degrees caster??

Toe in is positive, so
Camber: appox -1 Degree
Caster: as much as possible while staying even side to side
Toe: +0.0625 to +0.1 degrees.

But like I said I don't think the differences will be that great enough to notice.

robb15033 · Jun 30, 2011

Thank You- Very much.

Goindeafonmtx · Jun 30, 2011

Can't say I agree on the toe suggestion. With any amount of negative camber, you want a little toe out to compensate for the effects of such camber. If anything keep it at zero.

Mustang Mark · Jun 30, 2011

So I guess the fact that I have -1.8 degrees camber is bad?

Goindeafonmtx · Jun 30, 2011

Mustang Mark said:
So I guess the fact that I have -1.8 degrees camber is bad?

No, not at all. Think of it like this. When a motorcycle leans, it turns. Thats what you are doing to the front wheels when they have negative camber, they are trying to turn. So we toe the wheels out to compensate that effect.

Mustang Mark · Jun 30, 2011

Well actually I mean for tire wear.. lol

2slo95fiveoh · Jun 30, 2011

After my Kmember swap with Eibach pro-kit in the front I had -2.5 degrees camber on the left, and -2.8 degrees on the right...
It pretty much rounded the shoulder clean off of some already sh*tty tires

Goindeafonmtx · Jun 30, 2011

2slo95fiveoh said:
After my Kmember swap with Eibach pro-kit in the front I had -2.5 degrees camber on the left, and -2.8 degrees on the right...
It pretty much rounded the shoulder clean off of some already sh*tty tires

Haha. Yea, if I drive on the street with my track alignment, it cups and does wierd things to the tires. But if I drive on track, the track scrubs all that cupping away.