Rear mount turbo oiling question

[Medic123636]

Ok I am mounting twin turbos and I want to run an oil tank in the trunk. My main questions are how big of a tank and what size pump for circulation should I use and I know to have it to a keyed switch or run off a temperature activated switch? I know I am asking a lot just trying to line out my oil system. Thank you for any help anyone can help with this.

 

[96blak54]

I dont recall anyone here rear mounting turbos. I could be wrong tho.

Im am sure the knowledge base has some experience and can get you ideas.

I am definitely watching this!! Please post lots of pics

 

[Medic123636]

I found to put the turbos in the space of the mufflers the resonators after the axle. My plan is to put a 1 gallon tank in the trunk and an electric pump in the trunk to supply the oiling instead of running off the oil sending unit. I plan to Y pipe the cold side together then run it up the drivers side to a single inlet intercooler and up our normal piping through where we run our cold air intake to the throttle body. My turbos each are capable of 22lbs of boost each so if I set them to only 10lbs each it will live and not over load the turbos in theory, fingers crossed.

 

[RAU03MACH]

I think 10 ,qts in tank should be good 5 in tank with cooling fans , supply and return lines hold about 3-4 qts mabe
turbo 1 qt

 

[cobrajeff96]

First, don't think that by waste-gating over half the turbos' output to save wear & tear or even to just hit your target boost is doing you any favors. Instead, decide on a power goal and size the turbos accordingly. Turbos have what's called a compressor map which tells you their 'sweet spot' or peak efficiency window. If I were you I'd just call a tech line of the turbo brand you're interested in and they'll help you.

Second, unless it's going to be a dedicated track/race car, don't put any pumps inside the car (and if you can help it try not to put any reservoirs inside the car) and certainly do not put any heat exchanger inside the trunk. Keep in mind the limit of the oil lines, too. A lot of fluid circulation pumps (Mocal, Setrab, etc) have a limit on their self-priming capability (usually somewhere around 5 ft give or take). This means they can only overcome so much gravity and/or line length before they take on accelerated wear and give up entirely. If you want the pump to last long, try to get the lines as short as possible while avoiding heat sources like the exhaust.

I haven't finished off the install of my diff cooling circuit, but here's a pic or two.

 

[Medic123636]

Thank you I got with the techs on the turbos and they suggested I run between 8-11lbs of boost for the efficiency. I appreciate the input I didn't think of the lines and priming I do have one way check valves to prevent oil pressure on the turbos. More calls and research on my build. Thank you for your input.

 

[ttocs]

you asked if it should go to an ignition wire. That would probably be better than wiring it to a constant wire as it would keep the turbo's oiled but it would kill the battery. Now you need to be aware that there are two different types of ignition wires, regular and true ignition wires. A regular ignition wire will only see power with the key in the run position, a true ignition will see power in that position as while as when it is cranking the starter. regular ignition wires are for the radio and non-essential electronics so I would probably put this one to a true ignition so it is pumping while cranking. I have to admit I am not a turbo dude though so if someone else corrects me I fully admit this is just a tad out of my wheel house but I would think it would want oil while cranking....

 

[Medic123636]

Thank you this is why I am asking so I don't just burn stuff up to much invested in my engine and setup to oil starve it. Thank you for your help.