Red vacuum line... where does it go??

[DarkknightGT]

So I've been battling this whole getting this mustang for a while and found a possible issue? I found an evap line that was just sitting there disconnected, I know I need this, but I don't know where to connect it to!! Below are pictures of a location I could possibly plug it in at and the hose itself. Any help is appreciated! For clarification it's a 95 5.0

 

[DarkknightGT]

Accidentally posted twice. You can ignore or delete this one

 

[RAU03MACH]

On the fuel reg
Green egr

 

[DarkknightGT]

On the fuel reg
Green egr

Thanks man appreciate it

 

[07GtS197]

If you look close you can see a piece of green emissions hose that doesn’t go anywhere. That’s the one that John is referring to that goes to that open port on the egr valve. You will need to get a 90* vacuum boot to plug it in.

 

[DarkknightGT]

If you look close you can see a piece of green emissions hose that doesn’t go anywhere. That’s the one that John is referring to that goes to that open port on the egr valve. You will need to get a 90* vacuum boot to plug it in.

Apparently someone cut it for some in multiple areas, may have to get a new one. Ok so green is egr. I read somewhere that the red one goes on another port and not the fuel regulator? I have a picture of it below if there is some confusion. The car was a 92 or 93 cobra but had a 95 motor in it apparently. Could the egr possibly be a part of my problem?

 

[07GtS197]

Apparently someone cut it for some in multiple areas, may have to get a new one. Ok so green is egr. I read somewhere that the red one goes on another port and not the fuel regulator? I have a picture of it below if there is some confusion. The car was a 92 or 93 cobra but had a 95 motor in it apparently. Could the egr possibly be a part of my problem?

That red vacuum line should go to the evr solenoid. It should be where the other end of the green vacuum line goes.

 

[shovel]

In addition to the EGR system there is also the thermactor (AKA secondary air, AKA "smog pump") system which is vacuum operated. Most people choose to delete the thermactor system as it has really nothing to do with the engine running it only exists to supply oxygen to the catalytic converters so they can do their job.

The EGR system is not in any way related to the thermactor system but also uses vacuum and a solenoid mounted under the pass. fender to work. EGR has quite a lot to do with how the engine runs; if it's on when it's not supposed to be your engine will run terribly and if it isn't on when expected it will also run poorly. EGR's job is to maintain dynamic compression ratio under part throttle for better fuel efficiency & it also regulates combustion temperature for reduced emissions . Because EGR affects volumetric efficiency the fuel and spark strategy are heavily dependent on it so you can't just unplug it/block it off and not tell the ECU.

For either of those systems if they are not maintained in working order they should be deleted cleanly, both are kinda all-or-nothing systems. Having them each work properly is ideal and of course in some places legally required - but if you're going to delete either of them it must be done completely and cleanly for the engine to work well on the stock ECU.

Owning one of these pre-OBD cars is a challenge; if you've got budget for it I strongly recommend finding a factory service manual it's worth its weight in gold.

 

[duh09]

In addition to the EGR system there is also the thermactor (AKA secondary air, AKA "smog pump") system which is vacuum operated. Most people choose to delete the thermactor system as it has really nothing to do with the engine running it only exists to supply oxygen to the catalytic converters so they can do their job.

The EGR system is not in any way related to the thermactor system but also uses vacuum and a solenoid mounted under the pass. fender to work. EGR has quite a lot to do with how the engine runs; if it's on when it's not supposed to be your engine will run terribly and if it isn't on when expected it will also run poorly. EGR's job is to maintain dynamic compression ratio under part throttle for better fuel efficiency & it also regulates combustion temperature for reduced emissions . Because EGR affects volumetric efficiency the fuel and spark strategy are heavily dependent on it so you can't just unplug it/block it off and not tell the ECU.

For either of those systems if they are not maintained in working order they should be deleted cleanly, both are kinda all-or-nothing systems. Having them each work properly is ideal and of course in some places legally required - but if you're going to delete either of them it must be done completely and cleanly for the engine to work well on the stock ECU.

Owning one of these pre-OBD cars is a challenge; if you've got budget for it I strongly recommend finding a factory service manual it's worth its weight in gold.

I mean you're sorta right but not quite. On paper, yes. But real world, no.

Fully yanking the EGR system out and not making a tune change will affect how the car runs negatively but it's stupid easy to trick. As long as the ECU thinks the EGR is doing something, it'll hum along just fine 99% of the time. The ECUs in these cars using technology from 85 that have been slightly updated are not sensitive enough generally to tell that it's not getting it's little puff of exhaust in the intake. A missing EGR valve with the ECU looking for it will cause some problems.

There's generally not much reason to delete it, unless you are running Fox headers that don't have the tube for it, or are worried about the looks, but I've ran a couple of cars with the smog pump completely removed, ports plugged on the back of the head. EGR blocked off on the intake with a 351W fuel pump delete plate and a penny in the exhaust to block it, and left the EGR valve plugged up and tucked behind the motor so the ECU thinks it's functioning and away we went.

There's a sticky at the top of the forum about doing EGR deletes with a lot of solid info in it.

 

[DarkknightGT]

I mean you're sorta right but not quite. On paper, yes. But real world, no.

Fully yanking the EGR system out and not making a tune change will affect how the car runs negatively but it's stupid easy to trick. As long as the ECU thinks the EGR is doing something, it'll hum along just fine 99% of the time. The ECUs in these cars using technology from 85 that have been slightly updated are not sensitive enough generally to tell that it's not getting it's little puff of exhaust in the intake. A missing EGR valve with the ECU looking for it will cause some problems.

There's generally not much reason to delete it, unless you are running Fox headers that don't have the tube for it, or are worried about the looks, but I've ran a couple of cars with the smog pump completely removed, ports plugged on the back of the head. EGR blocked off on the intake with a 351W fuel pump delete plate and a penny in the exhaust to block it, and left the EGR valve plugged up and tucked behind the motor so the ECU thinks it's functioning and away we went.

There's a sticky at the top of the forum about doing EGR deletes with a lot of solid info in it.

Apparently the green line WAS the egr valve. It got cut in multiple areas and the car actually threw an egr code (334 to be exact) and I'm starting to think that this is kinda what's causing my issue with something: the car does this thing where when I give it gas, it sputs and kicks the rpms down from say 1500 back down to 1000, and then once it warms up, it idles to 500 rpms and stays there. That's if I leave it alone for a few days. Other than that she doesn't or barely wants to start at all, and tries to run at barely 100 rpms.