Road Race Pan for 94-95 5.0

Man-child79 · May 10, 2014

ReplicaR said:
Alright gents, here it is. The pictures are a bit blurry, but I was taking them after I finished swapping the front springs, so hands were a little shaky.

Ahhh! I see! I defiantly prefer the kink... Not crazy about the pull angle on the cable due to the extended bracket or the bracket. It looks like it may break the ear of the bell housing. Imo the kink is way cleaner / stock looking and functions just as well as your fix... On a positive note your set up would be a little less of a PITA to service... IMO

ReplicaR · May 10, 2014

Well, that's your choice. I've actually noticed that putting a kink into the cable causes the clutch cable to drag, and actually slows down the engagement. Also, I'm not sure if you've noticed, but bellhousing has structural reinforcement around the mounting hole. It also supports transmission to the engine, and experiences a LOT more stress from regular throttle application than a simple clutch release. I'm very certain that it's easily strong enough to handle what I'm asking it to do.

hotmustang95 · Nov 9, 2014

I think that's a great idea. Much better idea to flex/bend cable then it's housing. Also where the end of the cable sits has a cup style perch/seat whatever, so it would allow for some movement of the clutch cable. Well done ReplicaR

Northern_XS · Mar 19, 2015

I actually took my bell housing to my machine shop and had them weld an extension to the eyelet. Moved it out just over an inch. Picked up the adjustable cable from BBK and it fits and feels great. I'll try and get a PIC up tomorrow.

hotmustang95 · Mar 20, 2015

I thought I would add another option. I run the Proform road race oil pan. It doesn't have that big stepped out bottom area like the Canton and cost much less. No clutch cable issue here.

RichV · Mar 21, 2015

Does that one have the trap doors as well? Haven't seen one of those yet.

I do know with the Canton I can use my 4 point k-member brace, the Proform may be too deep for that.

hotmustang95 · Mar 22, 2015

RichV said:
Does that one have the trap doors as well? Haven't seen one of those yet.

I do know with the Canton I can use my 4 point k-member brace, the Proform may be too deep for that.

I don't believe it had any moving parts/trap doors, but it is baffled. Think it was around $150 and fit perfect.

Evilgt · Mar 26, 2015

ReplicaR said:
Alright gents, here it is. The pictures are a bit blurry, but I was taking them after I finished swapping the front springs, so hands were a little shaky.

[/QUOTE

I like it.

DavidBoren · Mar 26, 2015

I'm not concerned, at all, about the structural integrity of the extension tab. I think that is a great solution.

If I ever find myself installing one of these pans, I will probably have a Z-shape bracket welded to that corner of the pan to do the same thing.

Does the Proform pan hold any extra oil over the oem pan? And isn't the stepped out bottom area of the Canton pan what makes it a "road race" pan? Isn't that wide base area to ensure proper oil level at the pickup tube even in high-G turns? So what makes the Proform road race pan a road race pan if it doesn't have the stepped out bottom area?

Evilgt · Mar 27, 2015

I dont think the Pro form pan is a "road race" pan.

Canton and Hamburg both make good road race pans.

kyle

hotmustang95 · Mar 27, 2015

DavidBoren said:
Does the Proform pan hold any extra oil over the oem pan? And isn't the stepped out bottom area of the Canton pan what makes it a "road race" pan? Isn't that wide base area to ensure proper oil level at the pickup tube even in high-G turns? So what makes the Proform road race pan a road race pan if it doesn't have the stepped out bottom area?

It holds 7 quarts. I would rate it at in between a stock pan and say a Canton because it does hold extra oil and it does have baffles to help with oil slush. I've never seen a Canton in person but they're suppose to have trap doors in it which would make it better then the Proform. If I had a true race car that I competed in and I had a real nice race engine then I would've spent the extra cash for a Canton but because I don't plan on competing anytime soon and I use a decent little engine I decided that the Proform was more then enough for what I need it for. It's just another option.

alwill923 · Mar 28, 2015

How do you like the MM parts?

RichV · Mar 28, 2015

hotmustang95 said:
It holds 7 quarts. I would rate it at in between a stock pan and say a Canton because it does hold extra oil and it does have baffles to help with oil slush. I've never seen a Canton in person but they're suppose to have trap doors in it which would make it better then the Proform. If I had a true race car that I competed in and I had a real nice race engine then I would've spent the extra cash for a Canton but because I don't plan on competing anytime soon and I use a decent little engine I decided that the Proform was more then enough for what I need it for. It's just another option.

I thought I took pics when I installed mine, but guess not. This is a stock photo, but you get the idea.

I raced with a OEM pan for years, the Canton definitely helps with oil starvation. Hard and long right-hand turns you'd see the oil pressure drop to 10 or so, not after this pan. Pressure was rock solid through the turn.

hotmustang95 · Mar 28, 2015

RichV said:
I raced with a OEM pan for years, the Canton definitely helps with oil starvation. Hard and long right-hand turns you'd see the oil pressure drop to 10 or so, not after this pan. Pressure was rock solid through the turn.

Yea that's the real deal. Wish I had taken pics of the Proform to compare.

hotmustang95 · Mar 28, 2015

alwill923 said:
How do you like the MM parts?

You talking to me?

drewsky121 · May 18, 2015

I know this is a slightly older thread, but wanted to share. I put myself in contact with Canton Racing Products about their road race pan in 1994-1995 5.0s and they said they typically modify the pan by removing most of the left side of the "T" baffle and go from there. Its $500 for the pan and modification. I'm currently overseas deployed, and I didn't have a way of paying them via internet/email without using PayPal. They did not have an account, but established one for the soul purpose of me sending them money for one transaction. It was great customer service, and I never plan on buying oil system products from anyone else. Just passing along!

RichV · May 19, 2015

I've read that they will modify them as well. Canton is a good company for sure. Again, I'm very happy with mine, and I know it will save the bearings every time I'm on track.

Man-child79 · Jun 17, 2015

Evilgt said:
ReplicaR said:

Alright gents, here it is. The pictures are a bit blurry, but I was taking them after I finished swapping the front springs, so hands were a little shaky.

[/QUOTE

I like it.

Click to expand...

Man-child79 said:

Ahhh! I see! I defiantly prefer the kink... Not crazy about the pull angle on the cable due to the extended bracket or the bracket. It looks like it may break the ear of the bell housing. Imo the kink is way cleaner / stock looking and functions just as well as your fix... On a positive note your set up would be a little less of a PITA to service... IMO

Click to expand...

Sooooo! Update time! This topic came up just over a year ago. A few suggestions was thrown around on how to work around the Canton RR T-pan and I ultimately decided to go with kinking the clutch cable 90 degrees. Bad idea and anyone considering it don't wast your time. I put 1000 break in miles plus roughly 500 track miles and the cable is toast. The metal flex casing pretty much frayed the cable to its death. Lucky for me I was doing my routine inspection and was going to adjust my cable today and to my surprise the cable was shot... It is literally held on by five or six strands. Wow! So it looks like I will now give ReplicaR's suggestion / fix a try and see how that pans out. Any negatives to report ReplicaR?