Road Race Pan for 94-95 5.0

Discussion in 'Road Racing' started by Man-child79, Apr 22, 2014.

  1. Man-child79

    Man-child79 New Member

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    I just sat my engine in my 94 Cobra and to my surprise my Canton Road Race T-Pan is in the way of my clutch cable. Out came the engine... I'm seeing red right now! Hahaha! My question is what pan are the road racers running in there 94-95 5.0 cars. Oh... and when I bought my pan online it was listed to fit up to 95 model Mustang.
     
  2. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    I run the same pan. The cable has a kink in it, doesn't seem to interfere with operation. I've read on the CMC forums that the clutch/cable work just fine and it does not cause any adverse effects. Even if you gotta replace the cable every couple of years, that pan is still the best thing for the motor you can have. I was really surprised at the oil pressure stability through high-g corners, particularly right handers versus not having it.

    The same pan in a Fox does not interfere. You can custom fab/weld a tunnel in there if it bugs you.
     
  3. Man-child79

    Man-child79 New Member

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    You are a LIFE saver!!! Hahaha!!! Kinked the cable right at 90 degrees and Bim!!! Even with the trans bolted up and the cable kinked I can still with next to no effort operate the clutch cable by hand with only a very, very slight drag felt. Just like you said it will be nothing that will cause any problems. Thanks a lot bro!
     
  4. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    No prob! What are you building?
     
  5. Man-child79

    Man-child79 New Member

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    Stock spec 94 Cobra engine. Forged pistons, all ARP hardware, Clevite H-Series Race bearings, HD Comp Cams push rods, HD FRPP lifters, Trick Flow Spring kit, Manley Race Stainless Steel Valves, Romac balancer / FRPP SFI-approved billet steel flywheel (All balanced), Bassani headers w/ Bassani X-pipe (using existing SLP cat-back for now), FRPP 65mm TB, BBK cold air intake.

    I will be using the car for open track and HPDE duty and I did not want to affect the way the car runs but wanted to focus more on strengthening what was all ready there in hopes of keeping the engine together. I tracked my Boss 302 last year and boy was I hard on that thing, lol! But then again that's what I bought if for.

    I've been reading up on your car and it's progress and have been taking some pointers from the way you have your suspension set up. I figured I'd follow tried and tested results.
     
  6. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    I started tracking my 05. It feels night and day different than my 94. Post up if you want some help on anything. I've been racing Fox chassis since 2006 when I started open tracking.
     
  7. Man-child79

    Man-child79 New Member

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    Thank you sir! Will do!
     
  8. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    I dealt with the same issue, only I chose to be smart about it. You make a thick aluminum plate, drill two holes in it to bolt up to bellhousing and second one to pass the cable through. This way it bypasses the entire oilpan all together, and does not drag clutch cable, like it used to at first.
     
  9. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a pic/diagram of this setup?
     
  10. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    I'll take a picture next time I work on the car. Most likely next week.
     
  11. Man-child79

    Man-child79 New Member

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    I'd like to see it as well friend.
     
  12. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    I'll take a picture later this week, by weekend for sure. I don't have direct access to the car, so it's a little more difficult than simply walking outside and taking a picture. I'll measure the plate as well to give you an idea of how large it has to be. Honestly, between kinking the cable (lazy solution), and cutting and notching the oil pan like Canton recommended (expensive and stupid solution), I thought that building a bracket that extends the mounting hole was the best solution. Who said that you have to stick with factory mounting points?
     
  13. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    Ya, I definitely want to see it. After I read there are many guys that run them without issue I hesitantly put it in as-is and ran it. No issues, but I'd like to see a easier/better way than cut/weld.
     
  14. FastFox37

    FastFox37 New Member

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    Another vote for pics...

    I have the same pan but I don't recall there being too bad of a "kink" in the cable. I will have to take a closer look at it when I put the car back together.
     
  15. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    ^ Not sure which exact pan you have, they have a couple of part #s. The road race pan has the trap doors, but the problem is only on a SN 5.0. Fox 5.0 does not have the issue.
     
  16. FastFox37

    FastFox37 New Member

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    Canton P/N 15-644
     
  17. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    I've got the same pan. Is yours on a Foxbody or SN95? From what I've heard FoxBody cars do not have this issue, which is why those pans are not listed for SN95 5.0 cars. I don't know what the difference is in bellhousing on the foxbody, but something is different to the point where the clutch cable hole is located further away from the clutch.
     
  18. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    The clutch fork is closer to 6 o'clock on the SN bell.
     
  19. FastFox37

    FastFox37 New Member

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    Dmitry... I didn't even think about the bellhousing. My car is a SN95 but is a "mish mash" of parts. The bellhousing I am using is a Lakewood unit for a Fox which would explain why I did not experience an issue with the cable. As Rich pointed out the cable on the SN95 bell is closer to 6 o'clock and the Fox is more at 9 o'clock.
     
  20. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    Alright gents, here it is. The pictures are a bit blurry, but I was taking them after I finished swapping the front springs, so hands were a little shaky.

    [​IMG]

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