rotating assy time!

[TxCobrA98]

ok, well after a few purchases and a few weeks of work, I will be ready to start buying my rotating assy for the black cobra. I have never "shopped" for this sort of stuff so I need some real help here. I need everything to fully rebuild this motor besides the crankshaft. now i know some of you guys will want to say, first buy a 5.0 pushrod block buttttttt i can't haha. soooo can anybody help me out here on what i need and the specs of the parts (pistons, dished, no dish, rods, bearings, rings, etc..)

i know im asking a lot but i dont know how to do this stuff. or maybe an explanation to how to calculate it will work.

Im probably going to go with JE pistons or someone reputable, rods idk what brand but H-beam preferably, i want all forged because i do want to throw a power adder on it down the road, not within the next 2 or 3 years but sometime after i get out of college.

so can you guys possibly help me out? id appppreciate it a lot! :thumb:

 

[Steve-Oh]

call DSS Racing and they'll hook you up with a 5.0 stroker kit based on what you wanna do with the car. Thats what my buddy did and they sent a truck out to pick up the block from him, did the work, and sent it back!! Real convenient.

 

[TxCobrA98]

well me and my dad are going to rebuild it and i dont want to do a stroker kit.

i dont even want to bore it out, just clean up the walls a bit. how much can be gained stroking it though?

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Clevite bearings, Manley rods, Keith Black pistons, Compition Cams Cams and valve springs, Fel-Pro gaskets. If you want a power adder later stay with stock compression ratio.

 

[TxCobrA98]

i cant afford cams so im going to stick with stock and thanks for all of that info uncle matt.

i will do fel-pro gaskets, ARP studs, possibly port the heads, get the valve guides fixed and the valve seals,

how do i know what bore size to get? does that depend on how much i get the car bored over? i just want to clean up the walls so i dont want to do like .030 over or anything. and what stroke do i need? rings?

im really new to all this so i dont know much about the numbers and figures. thanks guys for the help thus far! :thumb:

 

[realitygt]

]
i cant afford cams so im going to stick with stock and thanks for all of that info uncle matt.

i will do fel-pro gaskets, ARP studs, possibly port the heads, get the valve guides fixed and the valve seals,

how do i know what bore size to get? does that depend on how much i get the car bored over? i just want to clean up the walls so i dont want to do like .030 over or anything. and what stroke do i need? rings?

im really new to all this so i dont know much about the numbers and figures. thanks guys for the help thus far! :thumb:

if you're not boreing it out then you don't need any bigger pistons, just hone your cylinder walls and order stock bore pistons.

but yes, the bore size you want to get depends on how much you get the car bored over, most people just do a .030 over, but if you're doing a bore over, why not do a stroker kit? boring it out is still going to increase your CI.



i'd do what matt said.

 

[TxCobrA98]

right, i just didn't know what honeing the block would do.. i didn't know if it bored it out a bit or if kept the walls the stock size. so i didn't know if stock bored pistons are what i wanted or not.

and i dont know if i want to stroke and bore it or not. i just kinda wanted to hear what you guys thought i should do. i mean yeah ill ultimately choose but im new to preparing all this out, ive only rebuilt the white cobra motor, everything was already bought for it and everything.

thanks guys.

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

If you don't want to buy a new crank, don't stroke it. But I would consider new cams. I know they are a bit pricey, but they well worth it. Also why install used cams when everything else is new.

Honing the block takes out all the inperfections in the cylinder bore, such as scratches. It also cuts new cross hatch marks in the cylinder walls. Boring it out is just that, making the cylinders bigger. If you do that you will need oversized pistons, and rings. If you bore it out it will increase your cibic inches, but it could also make your car run hot if you take out to much from the cylinders. I don't know the limmits on the 4.6, you will need to ask the machine shop. But .030 over is probably max.

Make sure you bring the crank to the machine shop with the block so they can check it, and cut it if needed. If they have to cut the crank make sure you get the proper sized main and rod bearings with it.

The first engine I did, I was given the improper bearings with the crank and did not check it. After about 100 miles on the car I noticed a slight knock and had to yank the engine and replace the bearings.

 

[Nestromo]

If there is nothing wrong with your motor then save your money. Those are great motors and they go a long long time. What that car really needs is an S-Trim, don't worry about the mileage and don't fear the boost. :thumb: If you are going to do it, bore it and get a fresh surface. Something about a factory bore with fresh pistons just screams "whore".

 

[Dalamar]

It's nice to have the peace of mind of a forged assembly, but if money's tight I"d go with a blower first!
especially if your not changing the bore or stroke to gain power.

I did the thing where you wait for a boost until it's forged up, and waiting for enough $$ to do it...
my car's 11 years old, and I bought it new. :whip:

 

[TxCobrA98]

matt, thanks for the great info. that really helps me out a lot!

and im thinking boreing it out is what i may do. ive been thinking about it and kinda want to. i dont want to go to the max though, so ill probably do like .020 over.. i still want my car to be very streetable and be able to go on trips if i want it to. and Nestromo, im rebuilding the motor because im going through about a quart of oil every 2 weeks or so. we are just going to forge the motor while the heads are getting rebuilt. but you are right, my car is begging for boost. i was talking to Craig at Hellion (guy on our forum) and i think im going to go turbo when the funds allow it. probably just the 61mm turbo which should put me at like 500-650hp which is all i really want. it will be a couple years but i think ima go turbo like my DFW brotha. :thumb:

and ill really have to think about the cams. that 1200 dollar price tag is just going to SERIOUSLY hurt the wallet haha. i may be able to swing something though. i got some stuff lying around that i dont need anymore so maybe i can get close to the 1200 mark.

we just got the water heater tube for the other motor and will be finishing up the white cobra motor in the next 2 weeks, then the black motor will be ready to be yanked out!

 

[Nestromo]

Hmm... that is a pretty good reason to rebuild it. :thumb: Turbos are cool, but be prepared to spend out the ass. I'm constantly bitching about how much I have spent on parts not related in any way to the turbo kit. It would run like a mother but if your car was mine, it would have a procharger on it so fast it would make your head spin. I said Vortech because I'm pretty sure they are a little easier on the wallet, but I haven't priced them for a 4V because I've never owned one.

As far as the bore, it won't change driveability, but I would still go as small as possible. Hell, I would go .010 if you can find the pistons. Live to bore another day. In your shoes a little NA cam setup with some compression and a small shot would be wicked. Cost a little bit more and pretty much kill turboability (although not a real word) but your car would definately haul ass.

Is the white car your dad's? What is it, a lil '94-'95?

 

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Before you make the decision to bore it, find out what the max is. The 260,289,302,351 series small block is good to .060 over bore. The FE 352,390,427,428, series is good for only .030 over bore. If the 4.6 is only good for .030 over and you don't want to take it to the max, IMO it is not worth it, unless it is necesary. The cost of boreing the block would not be worth the cubic inches and H.P. gains. Again that is my opinion.

 

[Nestromo]

Before you make the decision to bore it, find out what the max is. The 260,289,302,351 series small block is good to .060 over bore. The FE 352,390,427,428, series is good for only .030 over bore. If the 4.6 is only good for .030 over and you don't want to take it to the max, IMO it is not worth it, unless it is necesary. The cost of boreing the block would not be worth the cubic inches and H.P. gains. Again that is my opinion.

Agreed 100%.

Even though a block is not THAT expensive, why screw it up a good T block for nothing. Hang on... was that just the '96/'97? Cant remember.

 

[Stangbangin]

Well thether you need to bore it or not should depend if it needs it or not. If your cylinder walls are looking pretty rough and won't clean up with just a hone you'll need to get them bored. You can't really plan for whether you'll need to bore the cylinder walls or not.

 

[TxCobrA98]

the white cobra is a 97 with a (i think) remanufactured '99 Teksid block. I know 99 blocks were WAP but the block is Teksid and it is not a 96-98 block. im uncertain on what it is though.. i can only think of it being a remanufactured '99 Teksid.

anyways, that motor is almost done, we got the water heater tube yesterday and will finish it up shortly. im going to clean the IMRC (we aren't going to delete them on this motor, mine we probably will though), and clean the rest of the intake up and then it will be all ready to go!

but, im still uncertain, i just needed help on what to buy. brands mainly, my dad knows the specs of stuff we should be getting he said.

I get paid my first paycheck friday, i will probably spend it on non car related things and i also owe my parents about 200 bucks. then in within the next 2 months, ill hopefully have everything for the motor rebuild purchased and a pair of corbeau seats! :thumb:

is stock bore 3.552"?

 

[TxCobrA98]

so just to see if im shopping right, this isnt necessarily what im buying, just piecing things together..

JE Pistons
Manley H-Beam Rods
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
I dont really understand the sizing for the bearings so im not sure if im looking at the right thing or not and i couldn't find the rings right now but ill do it later.

so would all of that stuff look ok going together?

 

[Lightning Struck]

]
so just to see if im shopping right, this isnt necessarily what im buying, just piecing things together..

JE Pistons
Manley H-Beam Rods
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
I dont really understand the sizing for the bearings so im not sure if im looking at the right thing or not and i couldn't find the rings right now but ill do it later.

so would all of that stuff look ok going together?

are you looking to buy this stuff individually?? I think you could get a better deal by getting it in a package of some sort. Thats what im doing with my L later this year, im buying a rebuild kit as a KIT.....everything needed to do it. Its about 300 bucks cheaper for me compared to getting the components individually .

 

[Dalamar]

I was just thinking the same - I'd go with a rotating assembly, should save you some $

 

[TxCobrA98]

ill look into that. where can i look for something like that though? like a website or a manufacturer.. are you guys talking about buying like a whole kit say from DSS Racing or something?? sorry, i just haven't done any of this before so. im excited though :banana: :banana: