If you are looking to get it road worthy it sounds like you are going about it the right way. But to get to your goal I think you will be replacing alot of the parts you plan to put in to get the car back on the road.
Guys,
I have gotten it running and can honestly say - There is a lot of work ahead of me. The previous owners (god only knows how many there were) did not appear to do much maintenance. The first step is going to be renewal of the steering and suspension components. I don't hate the way it handles right now, though everything feels a little loose and there is a definate "shimmy" in the rear end. I expect that is a wheel bearing going out.
I am thinking I will use primarly stock/oem replacement components for the initial refurbish and restore drivability. My thought on this is that, while I want a quick car with ample power, I do not plan for it to be an all out drag car. I want something comfortable to ride in, not stiff... Once the drivability is restored to where I am comfortable pushing the vehicle a little, I will work on performance of the engine and overall handling.
Do you guys think I am approaching this appropriately?
R
I don't recommend this (and I have a quick anecdote as an example). I would spend a little time before buying parts on deciding what you want to do with the car ultimately - not just drag, or track, but what kind of performance you want, even for the street. Once you have an idea what you want, figure out what parts will get you there. Once you have that, *now* as you are replacing things, replace parts that you want better performance out of now rather than using stock parts. You will save time and money down the road, and any additional cost the performance part has over the replacement is negligible to you having to completely replace the part (plus labor). On top of that, authentic Ford OEM stuff isn't necessarily cheap
Here's my example - it's a little different from your goals, but it still applies to your situation: I track my car. Thus I've done a lot to my suspension. When I decided to upgrade, I could go with better shocks/struts/springs or make the swap to coilovers. I opted for shocks/struts/springs because it was cheaper and I thought it would be a while before I needed coilovers. I was wrong. Not too much longer, I swapped to coilovers. So I wasted time and money, I should have just gone with coilovers in the beginning. So as you think about the parts that need to be refurbished or replaced, keep an eye towards what you will want from the part and buy accordingly now.
This is the other side of the debate I have been having. I would prefer to follow the "do it once, do it right" type of mentality. It is, however, difficult to know what is "right" for a car that is going to be a daily driver and cruiser. I want performance and handling, but I don't want a stiff ride. I am willing to deal with some body roll and such, in exchange for a more comfortable ride. At the same time, I don't want to have a situation where the tires break loose with the slightest touch to the throttle. I know lots of things go into the traction discussion, but suspension is definitely one of them...
...And so the research begins (continues?)....
RufusT
Good advice above! Well thought out...thanks MCGLSR2....(uhhh does LSR stand for anything from the dark side? LOL)
Thanks Everyone for the input. MCGLSR2 - great advice that I will be revisiting!
I had a little time today to do some more diagnostic evaluation. There is a pretty horrible right/left situation... the car shakes. Initially, I thought it was in the rear end... so we jacked up the back and did some investigating. The rear end seems to be firm with no signs of anything that would cause this... So, we jacked up the front end - passenger side was fine - no real play or nothing. Moving to the driver's side exposed the problem. It appears the previous owners did not keep the air in the front tire appropriate and it has some pretty sever cupping. That has caused the wheel bearings to fail, allowing for a side to side movement when there should be none. The good news? $100 worth of parts and I can have both sides fixed. At that point, I can further evaluate failed components.
My new plan is to find the failed components only and replace them as needed. That way, I keep my overall cost for parts that are eventually getting upgraded/replaced to a minimum.
Ordered new tires today too - Kumho Ecsta AST's...
Rufus