So the HCI swap is complete! New questions...

[blackice]

[im doing a budget minded build]
A couple micellaneous questions:
I have a 95 GT, put heads off of a 97 explorer on it and the upper and lower intake, a F303 cam (i know there are bettter cams out there for the money..) Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 30lb injectors, trick flow elbow adaptor, 75 mm throttle body and an Anderson Ford Motorsports power pipe with a Pro-m mass air meter calibrated for the 30lbinjectors. Car already had Mac shorties, X-pipe, and Mac exhaust all the way back, no cats.
1.) What is the ideal timing for this set up? (with stock heads cam and intake i had it at 14 btdc)
2.) What is the ideal fuel pressure for this set up? (again, stock i had it at around 36-38lbs)
3.) Any advice on how to mount the power pipe in the SN-95? Cut part of the inner fender? Take the fender off? (i just have the mass air mounted to the throttle body with a rubber coupler for now just to set the timing and hear it run...
4.) What headers should i run, apparently the Mac short tubes i have arent meant for the Explorer heads because the spark plug holes come at a different angle and the #4 cylinder spark plug wont go in because it hits the header. (i had to put a big dent in the #4 exhaust tube, i know i shouldnt have but those headers are garbage anyways)
5.) What does the "spout in" chip do? I removed it and set the timing around 14btdc but it was having a hard time keeping idle around 600rpm (a bit low) After i set the timing i put the "spout in" back in and the car starts up but wont idle at all...

Sorry for being all over the board here! It fired up and sounded great, cant wait to have it all done so i can put the gears in!

 

[mikey94gt]

14btdc will work great.

dont run anything else than stock fuel pressure, the computer will go nuts.

I just laid mine inside the hole that the fender has from the factory. you can cut a rubber fuel hose in half and put it on the edge of the metal, if you dont want rattles.

MAC makes a GT40P head swap header. also, Ford Racing has a set of Ceramic coated ones that will work too.

the spout chip takes timing control from the ECU (engine control unit) so you can set base timing, the 14btdc you are speaking of.

sounds like you might need a little computer tuning, the computer doesnt wanna run with your combo. check your throttle position sensor voltage, should be .96v key on, engine off, and .98v engine running.

 

[rz5.0]

i've heard the computer doesnt like the f cam too much you will more than likely need a tune.

 

[blackice]

Thank you for the input! The car runs and idles around 600-650 right when i start it but as it heats up after a few trips around the block the idle starts to surge when i stop. After a few minutes of that it kills itself on the first idle surge when i stop.
The other question i have now is: what are you guys running to keep brake booster vacuum high enough so that the brake pedal isnt rock hard all the time?

 

[rz5.0]

are you sure you dont have a vac leak. check your fuel pressure and timing adjust you iac valve.i figure you should make enough vacuum.

 

[mikey94gt]

Sounds like your car is going into open loop (using the 02 sensors) and trying to compensate for the new engine parts incorrectly, resulting in a stall. The car will run okay in the warm up mode, which is where the car is trying to establish a working base line of what perameters are good, what sensors are working and not, etc. Its kinda like a test sequence when it first starts.

idling is the hardest single operation for an EFI system to accomplish. A chip will definitely be the cure, tho you can get it to work okay if you mess with the timing and throttle stop enough. 94-95 cars are hell to tune without a chip tho.

 

[blackice]

Fuel pressure is right at 38 timing is 14* BTDC. I believe it is a vacuum leak because this damn explorer upper manifold has like 90 vacuum fittings that come off of it that need to be plugged but i think the culprit may be the hoses for the pcv set up. It comes off the lower manifold and goes to a T fitting then i put one end to the upper and the other end it just left open right now. Is that the cause of my brake booster not doing its job?

 

[blackice]

The brakes work fine now, i just followed the vac line off of the booster it went to a T as well but the hose at the other end had fell off the fitting on the manifold. Now if i could just get this damn idle surge taken care of. Sometimes if i drive it for 15 mins or so then shut it off and try starting it after a minute or so it wont start... usually until the engine cools down. Its not running hot or anything, just doesnt want to restart when warm i guess. If i do get it to fire up, i have to hit the gas right when i hear it try and idle to save it from dying.

 

[rz5.0]

try your timing at 12* then see if you can get to idle there if not go to 10*.have you checked your voltage from the iac valve.

 

[cantbuytime]

1st,: those 30lb injectors are overkill and you probably dont even need 24lb injectors. You are going to have issues, even with a tune.

2nd: dent in the header is fine and buy shorty spark plugs from Jegs.. or find FRPP M-9430-P51* headers. Thats what I had bought to use with my P heads after the first set of FRPP headers had to dent and use shorty plugs..

3rd: F-cam + factory computer = trouble without a Tune.. U need to invest in a QH or PMS. You can get both for less then $300.. A chip is a waste unless you can tune it yourself or it can be easily tuned by a shop. The over the counter pretuned chips usually are for bone stock cars and once u start modding the car it wont run right..

THIS IS FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE, NOT SOMETHING i READ OVER THE INTERNET.. Check my build thread., LOL.. I did this same setup and used a PMS tuner . Yet the 24# injectors were still a tad much..

As far as timing goes, just do it as u should. Advancing the timing 8 to 12 degrees till it can be dyno tuned. Thats the only way you are going to find out what timing advancement your setup likes, short of going to the track to test & tune...

 

[blackice]

What if i put all 8 of my stock 19lb injectors back in and the stock MAF unit and reset the computer? I just didnt want to have to do that because i have a nice fancy pro-m MAF that is calibrated for the 30lb injectors and i figured that the computer would just adjust the pulse width correctly.

 

[DragRacer9506]

Get an A9L and a P.I.H. harness :thumbsup: I had nothing but problems until I got rid of the 95PCM. I personally have the plug and play version of the P.I.H. harness (which is no longer available) but you can get one that needs to be spliced in to the existing harness from P.M.A.S. As I'm sure most of you know, it's not cheap but it makes a HUGE difference. I just accept it as a necessity when you go with a 94-95 Mustang. I have a nasty 410 Windsor in my 95GTS with a 580 lift cam and a 112LSA. I run an A9L with the P.I.H. and the car NEVER stalls....even with the AC blasting. And that's WITHOUT a chip :headbang:

 

[2002BLGT]

Get an A9L and a P.I.H. harness :thumbsup: I had nothing but problems until I got rid of the 95PCM. I personally have the plug and play version of the P.I.H. harness (which is no longer available) but you can get one that needs to be spliced in to the existing harness from P.M.A.S. As I'm sure most of you know, it's not cheap but it makes a HUGE difference. I just accept it as a necessity when you go with a 94-95 Mustang. I have a nasty 410 Windsor in my 95GTS with a 580 lift cam and a 112LSA. I run an A9L with the P.I.H. and the car NEVER stalls....even with the AC blasting. And that's WITHOUT a chip :headbang:

Your car could benefit from a chip , the A9L swap is not advised anymore cause the availability and cost vs getting a tune with a chip now is not worth the work , any competent tuner can put a chip in the car with any cam and get it to run right with either MAF or injector combo available , the reason the 94-95 cars need tuning is because the PCM is load based just like the 96-up cars , so you cant fix it with a screwdriver and a A9L