some valve train help please?

Venomous94Cobra · Dec 10, 2009

hey guys im new to the v8 world, but not dumb to it. ive just purchased a 94 cobra and its mostly stock but ive got some valve train noise that i want to take care of. now the engine has a cam in it already, the guy said it was a ford racing cam but he wasnt sure wich one, it sounds like a b303 just guessing off the idle. my question is what do yall think about this set up for right now till i start my new engine biuld,

Comp high energy 1.7 roller rockers
Comp high energy hydrolic roller lifters
Comp hardend pushrods (the correct length of couse after measuring)
with the b303 cam thats in it? im not sure how much lift the stock motor can take before the pistons and valves make love to each other

thanks for your help

blackpony · Dec 10, 2009

i wouldnt mess with it unless it is a very loud noise.... Some minor clattering is common as the cobras have factory roller rockers and most everyone i have seen had a small amount of noise...

NXcoupe · Dec 10, 2009

Venomous94Cobra said:
hey guys im new to the v8 world, but not dumb to it. ive just purchased a 94 cobra and its mostly stock but ive got some valve train noise that i want to take care of. now the engine has a cam in it already, the guy said it was a ford racing cam but he wasnt sure wich one, it sounds like a b303 just guessing off the idle. my question is what do yall think about this set up for right now till i start my new engine biuld,

Comp high energy 1.7 roller rockers
Comp high energy hydrolic roller lifters
Comp hardend pushrods (the correct length of couse after measuring)
with the b303 cam thats in it? im not sure how much lift the stock motor can take before the pistons and valves make love to each other

thanks for your help

The cobra's come factory with bolt down 1.7 crane rr's so probably whats up is either the pushrods are too short or they are too long and the rockers need shimmed. I don't believe you need much of anything. How many miles are on it? If it is high miles, another set of FRPP lifters and crane cobra rockers would get you back on track. I wouldn't go for those aftermarket expensive lifters, I run 9's and soon to be 8's with ford FRPP 125 buck a set lifters. no worries.

Venomous94Cobra · Dec 10, 2009

thats good to know, the engine they said only has 30k on it, and i believe it cuz its sounds very tight and doesnt smoke or leak anything. whats weird is it never had any valvetrane noise when i went to look at it and for about the first week of owning it. its not very loud i guess just annoying.

Venomous94Cobra · Dec 10, 2009

oh and were and the crap can i find some new oem crane 1.7 rr's ive looked everywhere?

LAFENATU · Dec 10, 2009

Venomous94Cobra said:
i believe it cuz its sounds very tight

wat?

Venomous94Cobra said:
oh and were and the crap can i find some new oem crane 1.7 rr's ive looked everywhere?

Crane Cams

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-11745-16/

Ford Racing (made by crane) - SAME rocker but ~$60 more cause it has the ford part number on it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6564-A50/

Venomous94Cobra · Dec 11, 2009

i meant "feels tight" as in the bottom end doesnt make any abnormal sounds like a worn out engine. also that link to the crane rr's is for the 1.5 ratio chevrolet rr's, thanks again for yalls help.

LAFENATU · Dec 11, 2009

Venomous94Cobra said:
i meant "feels tight" as in the bottom end doesnt make any abnormal sounds like a worn out engine. also that link to the crane rr's is for the 1.5 ratio chevrolet rr's, thanks again for yalls help.

My bad...I highlighted the wrong ones.

Here ya go..

Rocker Arms, Aluminum, Pedestal Mount, Full Roller, 1.7 Ratio, Ford, 4.2/5.0/5.8L, V-8, Set of 16

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-44746-16

Venomous94Cobra · Dec 11, 2009

thanks for the link man, i was looking at some biulds and found one were he used 1.7 rr's and 1.6 rr's. i believe the 1.7's were for the intake and the 1.6's for the exhaust? what do yall think about that setup? does it really show some good results?

NXcoupe · Dec 11, 2009

No. just use the 1.7's on every valve. It's a great way to waste a whole pile of cash. You do have a camshaft in it, but not knowing the exact specs of it, just guessing what it is, isn't going to allow you to make decisions like that. I would leave as is, it is running well and should continue to do so if you keep things the same.
So the engine must have been rebuilt? Well here's another one of my engine builder secrets I'll throw out here for you guys to chew on. I have all my machine work done by a one man shop, keeps my costs down because I don't have to buy over a 1/3 million dollars worth of machine equipment and he does it exactly as I want it done. Well, ran across a customer years and years ago that had this problem, engine sounded great, but after driving for a while, and getting hot, the oil pressure would drop drastically, and the lifters would all start ticking and rattling at idle and especially when you were cruising at 2k rpms. Well I started doing back investigation and after months of looking, I found out the guy who was going to 'build' this guys engine was an 'expert' and ran a brake cylinder hone in the lifter holes to 'clean them up'. Well, problem is, Ford insists on .0005 clearance on the lifter bores. If you run a hone in, even for a couple strokes, you will increase that to over .001. What's the problem? Well most chevy guys do this as a matter of course, well, Ford runs the oil to the lifters, then down to the mains from the cam oil journals. So, if you allow this pressure to bleed off around the lifters, then there is less pressure through the ENTIRE oiling system, get it? Like a hole in an inner tube, the whole system is only as pressurized as it's weakest part. He went with a new block and his troubles went away. I found out my machinist did this to one of my blocks, and I ended up throwing it away. He said the same thing, I do it to every engine I build (marked Chevrolet), I dissussed it with him and now he leaves the alone.
this could be what's going on in your case. Check your oil pressure when hot with a manual gauge, shouldn't drop more than 20 psi from cold to hot. Hope this helps.