Stangswagalicious
New Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2022
- Messages
- 30
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Friends, im back at it again with some more bull ish to throw at you.
So, my car is spark knocking and its pretty hard to avoid. Knocks mildly with mild throttle starting around 2k rpm and gets pretty aggressive above 3500k WOT. Its not nearly as bad when i run 93 octane but i really dont want to because gas is expensive as balls right now.
I have many new parts installed. Some a relavent some are not but im just going to throw it all out there. Again, all of these listed parts are brand new
Parts: 3 core radiator, water pump, timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, new 24lb injectors, new MAF/CAI (calibrated for the 24lb injectors) new 70mm throttle body (injectors, maf and tb were all american muscle power adder kit thing) new iac valve, egr valve and position sensor, alternator, distributor/cap/rotor, tfi module, ignition coil, plugs/wires.
I have looked around a bunch on the interwebs. I have ran through the surging idle checklist, and as far as i can tell, the o2 sensors and the tps are the only thing left. Cars 26 years old. I may just replace em to keep it dependable. I have checked the voltage of the tps rece tly and it seemed to check out just fine. Even tho (from what iv read in the haynes manual) the tps is non adjustable on the 94-95, i still got it to sit right around .91 volts at closed throttle. However in Theory, it shouldnt matter where its baseline is set since the computer re learns its idle position every time its started. I have PROPERLY set the idle, (unplugged iac, adjusted stop screw, unplugged battery for 15 min ect) idles right at about 650-700
Some other information i have is that i just changed plugs again (less than 10k miles on them) just for a health check and they all 8 looked like shes runnin pretty lean. I have a feeling that has a lot to do with the spark knock right there. I pulled engine codes doing all the self test. Koeo:111 koer:111 (both mean no codes present) and when i did the cyli der ballancer test i got 9 flashes. (Not sure what that meant) also, i brought the timing from 14 back to 10 in hopes that would help be able to run 87. Lastly, i read somewhere that the engine not running warm enough can cause some weird thi gs to happen. I posted pics of the spark plugs, and the operati g temp after iv driven around a while. The thermostat is new also, but i can never seem to get the car to run warm how it should be. The spark plugs are 1-4 on the first set of pics and 5-8 on the second. Cyl #3 is only darker because i touched the tip (giggity) with my greasy hands
Im sure im forgetting other info that could help. But thats most of it. Any questions please be ask away. This car has been a real pain in the ass




Im sure theres in
So, my car is spark knocking and its pretty hard to avoid. Knocks mildly with mild throttle starting around 2k rpm and gets pretty aggressive above 3500k WOT. Its not nearly as bad when i run 93 octane but i really dont want to because gas is expensive as balls right now.
I have many new parts installed. Some a relavent some are not but im just going to throw it all out there. Again, all of these listed parts are brand new
Parts: 3 core radiator, water pump, timing cover, timing chain and sprockets, new 24lb injectors, new MAF/CAI (calibrated for the 24lb injectors) new 70mm throttle body (injectors, maf and tb were all american muscle power adder kit thing) new iac valve, egr valve and position sensor, alternator, distributor/cap/rotor, tfi module, ignition coil, plugs/wires.
I have looked around a bunch on the interwebs. I have ran through the surging idle checklist, and as far as i can tell, the o2 sensors and the tps are the only thing left. Cars 26 years old. I may just replace em to keep it dependable. I have checked the voltage of the tps rece tly and it seemed to check out just fine. Even tho (from what iv read in the haynes manual) the tps is non adjustable on the 94-95, i still got it to sit right around .91 volts at closed throttle. However in Theory, it shouldnt matter where its baseline is set since the computer re learns its idle position every time its started. I have PROPERLY set the idle, (unplugged iac, adjusted stop screw, unplugged battery for 15 min ect) idles right at about 650-700
Some other information i have is that i just changed plugs again (less than 10k miles on them) just for a health check and they all 8 looked like shes runnin pretty lean. I have a feeling that has a lot to do with the spark knock right there. I pulled engine codes doing all the self test. Koeo:111 koer:111 (both mean no codes present) and when i did the cyli der ballancer test i got 9 flashes. (Not sure what that meant) also, i brought the timing from 14 back to 10 in hopes that would help be able to run 87. Lastly, i read somewhere that the engine not running warm enough can cause some weird thi gs to happen. I posted pics of the spark plugs, and the operati g temp after iv driven around a while. The thermostat is new also, but i can never seem to get the car to run warm how it should be. The spark plugs are 1-4 on the first set of pics and 5-8 on the second. Cyl #3 is only darker because i touched the tip (giggity) with my greasy hands
Im sure im forgetting other info that could help. But thats most of it. Any questions please be ask away. This car has been a real pain in the ass





Im sure theres in