Stock block

[d.garza18]

Is there any cons to forging the bottom end on a Stock 2v non pi block?

 

[96blak54]

Yeah....forced induction comes to mind. Otherwise may as well leave it stock components.

 

[OLD H2S]

Not needed, really have to have big numbers and do drag racing starts with a manual transmission before a forged crank is needed. At the worst case the crank nose where the dampener sits has been damaged but was that by a crappy 20 year old dampener or not having it retorqued to 360 pounds?? Everything else is going to brake first including forged rods.

 

[98snakehorse]

I did forged rods and pistons to do 500+rwhp and havnt looked back. Depends why you want to do it but so far the pros are far beyond any cons for my reasons.

 

[d.garza18]

Looking to go forced induction this winter with full bolt on and goals of 450-550 hp so I’d rather start building the bottom end that way I won’t have to worry about chewing up the stock internals

 

[96blak54]

Look at forged pistons and stock coyote rods. Coyote rods are known to hold up over 700 rwhp and they super cheap! No reason to forge the crank as the cast crank holds up fine.

 

[d.garza18]

Thanks! What about pistons?

 

[d.garza18]

Any good piston recommendations? Also does anyone have a link to some stock coyote rods?

 

[OLD H2S]

FI? Fi for what? Drag? Street? Autocross? Roadrace? Car show? You have to define the goal first, how much power do you need to do it?
Pistons are like asking what do you want for dinner. Stock? overbore? compression ratio? cast? forged? full skirt? weight? coated tops? coated sides? valve releifes cut in..... the list is as long as the many companyies that make them. Speed cost money how fast do you want to go? Your idea is nebulus, put it on paper, then figure what level of reliablity you can live with, how much maintanance you want to do. Are you going to tear it down every 1/4 mile like John Force or take it to Jiffy Lube... don't laugh these are direct oppitsits on a piece of paper and you need to figure out where you want to be on that line. Are you going to do the assembly, do you have the tools, the CLEAN space, THE TIME???
The fastest cheapest end is to throw a centrifical blower on it and stay under 450 RWHP and be done, really, everything else costs more. As soon as you say new camsoilpumpheadsARPpistonsrods you are down the the rabbit hole and we will be here to see you to the other side...bring Bandaids.
DO NOT DO ANYTHING I DID.

 

[d.garza18]

Looking To daily this car and keep it somewhat dependable. I’m going to be 100% honest I’m lost when it comes to specs on pistons etc so I’m definitely willing to learn about it all so if someone could give me the rundown that’d be great. And I plan on doing the work myself and possibly having my buddy help me he’s built a ton of sbf sbc bb etc. I want to do it myself so I can get the experience and it’s something I really wanna pick up. I’m no stranger to a wreck I’ve done just about everything except piece together a motor yet a linen modular motor. My biggest concern is the timing but other than that I know I could pick it up with yalls help and some research

 

[d.garza18]

Also I’d like to stick a blower on it this winter so i want the bottom end to hold up to the boost

 

[OLD H2S]

How much boost? Totally stock motor is good for 450 rwhp on cast pistons and rods. At that level you now have clutch problems, trans problems, crappy rear gear bearings... This car system was designed for 215 Brake HP, you need a lot more upgrades than a stock crank that holds 750HP all day long.

 

[96blak54]

^ makes really good point!

After all said and done you need a $600 dyno tune to line it out right, so keep that in mind.

Boost usually isnt budget friendly. No fret tho, we can guide you right.

 

[d.garza18]

Yes I plan on running 373s with lowering springs shocks struts cc plates brakes rotors etc so it can handle the power. Also my cars an automatic and I’d actually like the keep it auto. Ay good transmissions that’ll be able to handle 450-600 hp? I don’t think I plan on taking the car up to 700hp but I’d like to know it could handle that amount of power if I ever decide to exceed my goals in the future

 

[d.garza18]

I’d like to run about 550hp and yes I’ve already added up everything else. But my main goal atm is to build a pretty stout bottom end on a budget. I read 98snakehorses 2v build and I believe he spent about $1500-2k if I could keep it around there that’d be great

 

[Silver95bird]

A properly built 4r70w will be fine. Just needs the right upgrades and a good TC. Read the od 101 article over on tccoa. The 11.25" stock TC is okay to 64-6500 before ballooning, iirc. It's the lockup clutch that's the weak point.

 

[d.garza18]

Do you have the list of parts in the 4r70w that I’d need to upgrade?

 

[Silver95bird]

I don't know that anyone has compiled a list directly, but the part numbers are in the article. Some people like to get a trans core from a 98-02 crown vic/ mustang and build that. A lot of things changed over the years, but those cores are a great starting point.

https://www.tccoa.com/articles/transmission/index.shtml

 

[d.garza18]

Thanks will look into that!

 

[OLD H2S]

They must have the over drive snap ring changed to a spiral lock type on the OD diode, ask me how I know...3 times.