Torque Converter Reviews

tekcisGT

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The tq converter in my car is making funny noises, I can hear it spin after I shut the engine off and it sometimes pops!! after decel or a P to D shift on start up. I have pondered about a t45 swap and i'm pricing the difference between that and a new converter (a nice one) and since pulling the trans is needed for both, why not? I have done an AOD to T5 swap in my 89 LX and the pedals only took me about 5 hrs. on my first try. Anyway, my trans is still bangin out 1st - 2nd gear tire smoke and 3rd gear chirps so why not keep it? I have heard Circle D rocks, and Dirty Dog is a great one... Precision I have heard has bad liners? Is there any others worth reviewing? Also, anyone looking to do a t5/45 to 4r70 swap?? lol
 

Lee12609

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i have no personal experience with either, but havent heard any bad about either. i'm actually in the same boat as you and looking for a converter to replace this HORRIBLE oe unit.

hopefully we get some input here.
 

McCloud

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I have a 3600rpm Dirtyd0g converter in my 96gt. I also have a 3600rpm Circle D-relined PI converter in my Mach 1. I have no sixty foot numbers for the 96, but I have consistently cut 1.75-1.78 sixty foot in the Mach by footbraking to 2000rpm and launching. Both are great units IMO. BC-automotive is another place I would look at as well.
 

justinschmidt1

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tekcisGT said:
did you notice better acceleration or just a better launch?

Your going to notice better acceleration in first gear the most, should notice better acceleration in second gear depending on when your converter locks.
 

navarro98gt

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DropTopPony said:
Give Darin at BCAutomotive a ring.

Agreed. I?m running one of his Billet converters and valve body and love it. I went from a best 13.35 to 12.72 after the converter, valve body, and tune. The only complaint that I have is a clunk from 2nd to 3rd gear. This developed after the converter, valve body, and trans cooler install.
 

Lee12609

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anybody care to share pricing on each unit.

a converter will be one of my next purchases and i'd like to see what i'm looking at.
 

navarro98gt

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1quk50 said:
for everything? stall valve body all?

No $850 just for the Converter. I think I paid $250 for the valve body and $100 for a trans cooler......Sure does add up fast!
 

97stanger

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I paid $900 i think for the converter, had a custom valve body done for $200, and like $150 for a huge trans cooler the size of my intercooler
 

navarro98gt

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blown97stanger said:
I paid $900 i think for the converter, had a custom valve body done for $200, and like $150 for a huge trans cooler the size of my intercooler

What kind of trans cooler are you running? I'm running a Long Tru-Cool thats rated at 40,000 GVW. Thing is huge!!
 

97stanger

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I'm pretty sure thats the same one im running. Darrin just told me with my setup to go with the one he recommended and he just did the converter/cooler all at once for me.
 

jwyche

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When you are just cruising, not launching hard, or out on the freeway, does your converter feel more sluggish than the stock one did? With the stock converter, and the line pressure turned up in the tune, it would spin the tires in second and third. Now with the 3200 Stallion Billet converter, it won't do that. The launch is awesome, but, I guess, the slipping of the converter makes it feel softer. Any of you guys experiencing that, or am I the only one.
Jim
 

justinschmidt1

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jwyche said:
When you are just cruising, not launching hard, or out on the freeway, does your converter feel more sluggish than the stock one did? With the stock converter, and the line pressure turned up in the tune, it would spin the tires in second and third. Now with the 3200 Stallion Billet converter, it won't do that. The launch is awesome, but, I guess, the slipping of the converter makes it feel softer. Any of you guys experiencing that, or am I the only one.
Jim

When you go with a higher stall you should really get the tuned adjusted so the converter locks up at the right times, otherwise it stays open which sounds to me what you have going on.


The converter is definately unlocked 1-2 shift which is cushioning the shift which is why your not spinning, 2-3 the converter should be locked/same as stock...but it sounds like yours isnt locking.

And on the highway, again...the converter SHOULD be locking up which would make it feel just like the stock one.

If its staying unlocked then it will feel loose and sloppy compared to it being locked under part throttle
 

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