I was getting ready to change my oil this weekend so I pulled out the dip stick to take a look at the level and none was showing, so I added a quart and its still a little low but its not bad. This was within a 2500mile period. So either valve guide seals leaking or the rings are worn or maybe both. The car now has 162,000 miles on the original engine and who knows what kind of maintenance or lack of its had before I got it. I've been wanting to get a new engine for a while now but I wasn't expecting to do it right now but it seems like a good time. I'm thinking about a 4v swap? Lincoln mark VIII engine 97-98. I wanted to do the 5.4 but I have decided against it. Toss out some ideas for me, I'm all ears :thumb:
Well time for a new engine is coming up...
- Thread starter atrainsgt
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AaRoN
King Post Whore
Get a PI motor or go 4V :thumb:
Jrgunn5150
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2v, FTW, BTW, my original motor burned oil like that from 40k to 60 when it came out, I think it was just from sitting, I lost the valve seals or something.
Anyhow, when you are being realistic, and not living in the fantasy world most on this site seem to live in, you can build a 2v just as good for the street, for alot less money. And you don't incur any swap costs, at all.
Anyhow, when you are being realistic, and not living in the fantasy world most on this site seem to live in, you can build a 2v just as good for the street, for alot less money. And you don't incur any swap costs, at all.
J.R. said:
I remember you had told me that I could build a engine without problem since I had done my own rear end gears and such but I am still a bit hesitant. How much do you guys think I could build a forged 4.6 2v for? Buying everything new? I looked at some assembled forged short blocks and the best I could find was at MMR and I'm not prepared to spend that much. Of course the major things I need would be a new block, pistons, rods and some PI heads. Another issue that I'm running into is that this is my daily driver. I can't build myself a engine and have something wrong with it. I almost think it would be a better option for me to buy a rebuilt PI engine or the 4v I was thinking about then rebuild what I pull out of the car with forged internals.
Jrgunn5150
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You don't really need a new block, but I think they are only like 300 bucks anyway, the regular GT block is sufficient for your needs. Hell, you really don't even need a forged crank.
Eagle sells an all forged kit for like 2200 buck's, pretty much everyone is comparable on price, unless they are using Chinese machined crap. I'd budget 3500 for the shortblock, with every little nut and bolt. But if you shop around, you can find used, or just purchased and not used kits on the corral, modular depot, etc for alot less.
Eagle sells an all forged kit for like 2200 buck's, pretty much everyone is comparable on price, unless they are using Chinese machined crap. I'd budget 3500 for the shortblock, with every little nut and bolt. But if you shop around, you can find used, or just purchased and not used kits on the corral, modular depot, etc for alot less.
Definitely sounds like I need to just swap in a PI engine and rebuild what I have when I pull it out of the car. Here I was about to buy a truck, there goes that idea. Where can I get a rebuilt PI engine with at least some warranty? Or should I just go get a low mileage one from a salvage that will do a compression test for me?
Jrgunn5150
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atrainsgt said:
Most salvage yards will give you a 90 day to 6 month warranty.
Dalamar said:don't you want more powa?
go for a built motor/heads would get you more smiles
Of course I want more power! I figured I would do it through a blower down the road though not N/A. N/A is to much work for to little with these engines IMO. I see what lengths people are going to just to get 270rwhp from them. So build then boost for me :thumb: I'm trying to look down the road with this car because its only happening a little at a time.
