wet sanding help needed

bryand

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call me an idiot if u must..... but ive been around cars forever and have been building them since high school, and i dont know what wet sanding is. used to just send the car to the shop for the pretty stuff, and no i have a kid and dont have extra money, so id like to do most of the work myself.
i would like to know how to wet sand on tinted lights, and to know if it the same on the body. dont need to do any body work as i am still just sending it to the shop. but i really want my lights tinted right. thanks for your help


and OMG i sanded and sprayed my rims and they look rough as hell, i feel like i would leave blood if i rubbed them with my hand! how do i wet sand that to smooth!
 

Crone

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I'm not a body work expert by any means, but I'm cheap and poor so I do it all myself lol. Wet sanding is just what it sounds like, sanding with wet sandpaper. You can start with a rougher grit and work your way up to get all of the scratches out. You keep the paper wet, and don't scrub too hard with it. I just put water in a bucket and dip the paper. It keeps the dust level down, and I guess keeps it from destroying whatever your working on with scratches. :dontknow: On your rims, what grit paper did you stop with?
 

MustangChris

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as for the wheels, you will have to basically start from scratch. you will need to start with rough paper and work your way up to super fine. Someone on the forum will have a better idea of what grits to use.

wet sanding (as Crone said) is using sand paper on your surface, but dipping it in water first. This will provide a natural, easy to clean, lubricant. Water is a penetrating fluid (grand canyon and niagra falls are good examples) so it will lubricate all the way into the surface of wahtever it is you are sanding. (think on the molecular level.) it litterally lifts the paper off the surface of your "canvas" as to protect against heavy pressure and uneven pressure. Its kinda like useing pencils under the palm of your hand as you slide it across a table top...

Also, water at the molecular level acts as a abbrasive (sp?) This is the leading problem with nano-technology. but anyways... lol. this helps remove molecular impurities and helps pull them away from your "canvas." In the case of body work, it is the paint that is being removed.

Depending on what you are wet sanding, and your goals... you should use a different paper grit, different amount of pressure, and a certain shape of "sanding block"

for body work, you tend to use a flat sanding block. to go to the metal, use heavy grit to get through the clear coat, then switch to a medium grit to get through the paint. once you hit paint, rinse your paper more often. the minute you think you are about to hit metal, or you see metal, switch to a finer grit. fianlly, once metal is showing, use a super fine grit to almost "polish the surface."

Once you hit metal, wash it with water. then use a harsh cleanser on it. Paint thinner, lighter fluid, gasoilne, turpintine(sp?) anything like that. drench it down. check for impurities.

let it air dry. do not use compressed air. keep it in a dust-free place (paint booth.)

apply primer.
wet sand if needed (probably use super fine grit)
apply paint.
wet sand if needed (probably use super fine grit)
appy clear.
if done properly, i doubt you will need to wet sand again, but you may.

as for the wheels, you can buy oddly shaped sand bricks to help with the oddly shaped surface you are working with.... of, my friend just turns his flat one around and uses the curved side for wheels and hard-to-reach areas. :p
 

Crone

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Why should you not use compressed air? not trying to contradict you, just curious....
 

MustangChris

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holds moisture and debris... if you lay the compressed air nozzle on the ground (like, one of the nozzles that just has a button to "shoot" the air) it can pick up dust and then you shoot it at 1000MPH at a freshly cleaned surface... since it can be so small, you cant see it... but you will certainly feel it when you run your hand accross your glossy paint...

honestly, ive painted a car in a driveway (it happened to be my mustang. lol) and it orange pealed like a mother trucker.... i now take every minor precaution.... always thinking ahead...

if you are painting your trunk lid for example. and you finish sanding it and you want to tape after sanding and before painting, dont lay the roll of tape on the decklid. the glue will come out of the side of the tape roll and stick to the decklid. you wont see it, but when you are done painting you will notice.....
 
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bryand

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hey thanks. any tips on welding on the body? going to go over the holes from the antenna and spoiler today or tomorrow. i was going to get a piece of filler metal and just tack all around it, then grind.
 

CC'S95GT

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your last step before you apply the paint is to use a tach cloth to the surface perfectally clean and only wipe in 1 direction. This step sounds to be the prob when you did your wheels.
 
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bryand

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i think two of the wheels look good, i started by sanding down the clearcoat and cleaning with brake cleaner, then many light coats, but it turned out rough so i didnt clear over them til i get that shit figured out.
 

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