What to do with exhaust, steering and such.

racenmotorsports · Jan 15, 2012

Ok, got a 95 v-6 5 speed I've talked about before.  Got the brakes fixed and it drives.  Now that I've got it where I can drive it and it's safe, I have three issues I need to fix, before I give it to my daughter.  1- the PO put dual exhaust on with some really loud flowmasters (I think).  It doesn't really sound good as I am finding out, it's just loud.  I'm debating on removing the dual's and get a stock exhaust from one in the junkyard, cut everything out and replace and hope it's more quiet.  Or, just getting some type of quieter muffler.  I like the look of the dual's on it but I'd like it to be much quieter going down the road.  Any suggestions on a quiet muffler? 2- Driving down the road, it has a shimmy in the steering.  Looking under the car, I see some oil on the passenger side of the rack.  Not sure where to look on this one to find the shimmy.  Any suggestions? 3- Got an oil leak out of the rear of the engine below the bellhouse.  I'm thinking rear main seal.  How hard is this replacement?  Can I do it on my back or does it have to be done on a lift?  I know a lift is easier, can it be done on my back? Thanks for the help and ideas. Ray

g36 monkey · Jan 15, 2012

you can do a rear main on your back, it requires dropping the trans, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate.

It's a pain, but but better than $500 in labor to do one.
I would look for a set of stock GT mufflers to throw on there, and make sure there is a mid-pipe, that it is not just two pipes running back. Yes I know these motors are internally balanced and don't need a midpipe necessarily, but it sounds much bettter.

racenmotorsports · Jan 16, 2012

OK thanks for the advice. It's definately true duals, but I have enough skills and equipment to put a mid-pipe in.

robb15033 · Jan 19, 2012

No mid pipe/cross-over needed for the V6's. Borla are expensive but are quiet and sound nice, Flowmaster dbx HushPower sound nice and are quiet. Thrush Welded are cheap and sound great, all these for the 3.8 V6.

racenmotorsports · Feb 14, 2012

Ok, so it's been a while, thanks for all the advice. I had duty here on the base, so I took the car to the hobby shop and got it on the lift to do a real inspection of this POS car. It needs more work than I realized when I actually bought it. I realize I probably got took on it but that's in the past now and all I can do it to get it in good working order for my daughter.

So after spending about 40 minutes under the car checking out everything, here's what I found,
Transmission leaks at the rear seal
Steering rack needs replaced
All front bushings need replaced, the rear lowers were loose, the fronts not so much.
Sway bar bushings and end links are worn and cracked
shocks are stock >93k that's where the odo stopped - enough said.
In the rear, all bushings are loose and cracked. Sort of explains why the car feels loose and going to come around on me when I'm taking corners or a bump. Not like my dirt track car, it's much more loose.

Mufflers are flotech ones and definately need replaced because they drone on and on from 1700 - 2500 rpm. Right in the range I run it at. and when they put the exhaust together they just wired in the O2 sensors, no mil eliminators so I think it may have some of the driveability issues so I'll make some elimiators and wire them in when I get to making all the repairs. I'll be doing all the repairs, I got the hobby shop on base and my buddy has a service center with all the special tools I may need, so that'll save me money

All this being said with this extremely long post, this car is going to be my daughters and I don't really want to give it to her in what I consider unsafe. We've cleaned up the inside and there's still some work to be done there and the body, but my main concern now is making it safe.
I have two questions:
First I'm thinking that I want to work the front end first get bushes, rack, tie rods, etc. Then do the rear. Finally finish up with the exhaust and the two leaks.
Second, should I consider springs and C/C plates for a car that probably will never see a racetrack?

Thanks

g36 monkey · Feb 14, 2012

I would get springs and cc plates just for looks.

If it were me, I would probably do the trans. leak first, even if it's a slow leak. Don't want to risk running too low on trans fluid.

The rest should be pretty easy

racenmotorsports · Feb 14, 2012

Good point. That's an easy fix anyway. Do you know anything about the prothane bushing kit from CJ parts? It seems like a good deal, has everything to do the whole car. Here's the link. http://www.cjponyparts.com/prothane-total-bushing-kit-without-transmission-mount-1994-1998/p/SBK19/ I haven't heard anything about them.

g36 monkey · Feb 14, 2012

I have the one from American muscle which is basically the same. Makes the car ride wicked rough. I wouldn't do it if it's for your daughter. I can't play a cd without it skipping.

I have done sound deadening like crazy and it has helped with the vibrations, but still skipping cd player. Next thing will be putting foam all around the cage haha.

I don't mind a rough ride, but I know most girls do.

racenmotorsports · Feb 14, 2012

I hear what you're saying, so what do you go with then, just stock replacement rubber?

g36 monkey · Feb 14, 2012

That's what I would do. I wonder if you can find a stock replacement bushing kit. That would be ideal. Buyig individually drives the price like crazy

racenmotorsports · Feb 14, 2012

You're right. That's what I've been doing all night, trying to price it all out and make the plan. It already rides rough, maybe i just tell her to suck it up and she'll get used to it. Maybe even give it back to me when she gets tired of shifting.

I was looking at the SVE springs, somewhere around 1.5" drop, do I have to get special (fox body) shocks or just order the stock size. Not sure what brand I'm going to go with yet. I know when we lowered the race car, we had to get special ones so I'm just curious.

g36 monkey · Feb 15, 2012

I have the SVE springs in mine, with stock length shocks. It's not "required" to get fox shocks, but if I had to do it again I would. They are just a hair shorter but it makes a difference.

CC'S95GT · Feb 15, 2012

Ford "B" springs lower the car just a tad over an inch and are progressive rate and give a decent ride. and you don't need CC plates to get it aligned correctly.Ck Summit also for a bushing kit. and the standard Mustang after market places too.The rear seal on the trans is an easy fix. Ck the D/S yoke for a groove, otherwise the new seal won't do any good.I have a my original GT catback if you close to Ga.

racenmotorsports · Feb 15, 2012

Thanks for the info CC'S I do live in GA but all the way down by the 95 florida line. I'll give summit a call, my Dad interviewed for a job up there and they have a stack of books they can look in for parts that aren't in the catalog or on-line.