ok , so im throwing the whole 700hp goal out the window , im looking at a longer build over more than a year and i figure screw going with a car ill be happy with to a car i want badly and shouldnt want more out of , my new goal is to figure out what it would take to make an aftermarket 302 or 351 based block to be a TRUE street car and put down mid to low 9's , im talking 200+ miles easy on any given day with no issues (not that it will be but i want the option) , i know this will be a damn extensive build and put me back well more than a year , but since this is the only real shot ill get at a car i want b4 i decide to actualy grow up and buy a house i want to do it right and with no regret , boosted would be prefered and since i want it streetable i assume ill want a turbo since i know i can have multi tunes to turn the boost down/off to be more streetable , i also know suspension to handle this much HP wont be cheap , so im kinda wondering what it would take top to bottom including full suspension list , thanks for all the help guys i know im a bit of a noob when it comes to aftermarket stuff.
what would it take ????
- Thread starter Xronin
- Start date
Win
Legend
Your talking $$$ a 302 base unless you go Dart will not get you in the 9's it's going to take a ton of money to get into them. I would say a 351W Based motor. or if you want to go balls out a 365 series motor like a BB 460 would be in order.
Mustanger
Well-Known Member
Lofty goals that will require TONS of money & expertise!!! You will be going into every aspect of your car front to rear...easier to go 03/04 Cobra route IMO & that still will cost you thousands...
saying it will cost alot of $$ is redundant , if it didnt everyone would have em , so i know it will take $$ witch means alot of time as well , im just interested on what it will take to do it , i know its going to take a ton of work too. i would prefer to do it myself , if not im looking at prepping a car with suspension and a tranny ment for over 1000hp and getting a pre built one from Nelson racing engines (witch i would prefer not to do cuz im sure thats more than it would cost me to do 9.s as most of there cars run low 8's (not to mention 35k for a motor build alone that i have no hand in is one YEARS of saving without seeing progress and 2 no real fun or pride imo. i might be noob but i would prefer to build my own.
Well toss the 302 block right out the window and go with a forged/stroked 351. For good street use, you're going to be restricted on cam agressiveness so you're going to have to stay with a mild cam and head setup. To get the full potential out of the car you're going to need to run a high boost turbo or supercharger, and you're going to need lots of tuning done.
jthorn9 said:
Now I was looking at a few thing , like twin turbo to make the power to keep the engine only power more streetable , I know imma need tons of tuneing since I want to keep her sleeper , as close to stock looking andsounding ( witch I assume will be hard to do)
To get to where you are wanting to go is really not that difficult given todays aftermarket options. A Boss Block 347 would be more than capable of putting you into the 9s. Which would keep your cost down a bit. As far as a forced induction application, whatever route you decide to go keep in mind you will want the RIGHT application not the biggest. The biggest portion will be in the suspension.
MustangMoser
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2010
- Messages
- 876
- Reaction score
- 0
a stock 302 block will probly break before you get to your goals, dart, boss or 351W is going to be necessary. a true street car, define that. there are different defenitions. to me a true street car is no cage, full interior, heat, maybe a/c, radio no mini tubs or full tubs, abs, air bags, etc. that obviously wont get you where you want to be. if you want something great on the street and a monster on the track turbos are the way to go, twin or single is up to you. i would recommend that you give some of your local performance shops a call and ask their advice. a 385 series engine (429/460) will get you where you want to be as well, but thats a lot more work to fit between the frame rails. You'll need a full forged bottom end and some bad to the bone heads. but like i've said before, make your goal, and stick with it. keep your budget in mind, most of us on the boards cant afford a build like this. this will be a very technical and full build, if you're a noob to building cars, you will be in over your head. no disrespect, but this build will kick your a*s. its not going to be a h/c/i swap, we're talking massive amounts of measurments and if you're tolarances are off just a kitty hair, your engine will be crossing the river styx. know what you are getting into. the body will be the ONLY thing thats not going to need to be changed.
I guess ill define daily driver in my eye , a/c , as far as a cage I don't want a full cage , no issue if it blocks the back seat but I don't want my girl being uncomfortable getting in and out of the car , full interior is a must as well , abs would be nice to keep but not a must . As for me saying I'm a NOOB ill define that further as well , as far as a car come from factory I have no issue tearing it down to the bones and rebuilding , that part I think I'm a noob on is aftermarket specs and parts that go well together , the full engine work will be done mostly by me and my stepdad who has been a mechanic for over 40 years , but in the same respect he knows stock not aftermarket , as far as transmission and rear end ill leave that to pro's also if I get confused or stuck on a part I'm not the kinda person to say ....well this should work , I would rather have it done right , once , and good , rather than a small mess making a larger one. The only reason ill be able to afford this is that my gf is pooling together all her extra $$ as well since she knows after this car ( since I alrdy have my yfz450). I'm done as far as toys go and it will all be going to .... more responcible crap , like was stated above , bigger isn't always best , I know there's no replacment for displacment but an aftermarket 302 or 351 would be best imo since bigger than that ill have to make a lot more adjustments , I have to figure out the based block I'm going with before I buy all my suspension I assume , so once I have an engine build drawn up that will make this I'm going to start on the suspension b4 the block ( I just don't want to change my mind later on so I want to do a whole build.
modo
Well-Known Member
cut me a check for 30k and ill hand you the keys to my car :icon_rr:
seriously, you can have exactly what you want with a 306 and a t-trim... there is no need to go crazy with large cubes.
my car makes close to 800 on pump gas with the help of meth, full ac, power steering etc. can drive it to california if i wanted and it gets over 25 mpg. i assume thats what you want.
you need a aftermarket block, rotating assembly of your choice... 306 can do it but a 331/347 would be better, 205cc or larger head, matched intake, cam of your choice, 1200+ cfm blower, 1600+ would be ideal. trans of your choice, rear end ideally would be 3.27 or 3.55 with a 26-28" tire, 31 spline etc.
obviously need the fuel system to be there.
suspension you don't need anything fancy but you do want to find instant center and have the pinion angle set. street car would benefit from a air bag in the passenger side rear spring over a anti-roll setup. cage is ideal but i don't like them either so a through the floor subframe would be the best option.
seriously, you can have exactly what you want with a 306 and a t-trim... there is no need to go crazy with large cubes.
my car makes close to 800 on pump gas with the help of meth, full ac, power steering etc. can drive it to california if i wanted and it gets over 25 mpg. i assume thats what you want.
you need a aftermarket block, rotating assembly of your choice... 306 can do it but a 331/347 would be better, 205cc or larger head, matched intake, cam of your choice, 1200+ cfm blower, 1600+ would be ideal. trans of your choice, rear end ideally would be 3.27 or 3.55 with a 26-28" tire, 31 spline etc.
obviously need the fuel system to be there.
suspension you don't need anything fancy but you do want to find instant center and have the pinion angle set. street car would benefit from a air bag in the passenger side rear spring over a anti-roll setup. cage is ideal but i don't like them either so a through the floor subframe would be the best option.
wannaboost94gt
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2008
- Messages
- 646
- Reaction score
- 0
FYI there are guys runnin 9's on the turbo mustang forums on the stock block, not safe but it is possible. :bootyshake:
modo
Well-Known Member
wannaboost94gt said:
would you want to lose a set of 2,000 dollar heads and 500 dollar cam / lifter setup if and when that block decides its unhappy with life? have you ever had something let loose and oil / coolant get on the rear tires while going 140+ mph during a pass? 1600 bucks for a better foundation is worth more then ones life...
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/88gt_tropical.html
Thats a pretty cool car. And it runs 9s through an auto on 18s. But you can acheive that like stated above with a 302 based motor as well as a 351. With a turbo the possibilities are endless. Determining your budget or atleast a ballpark figure would help your decision of 302/351 route. Its really up to you, because you can do it with either.
Thats a pretty cool car. And it runs 9s through an auto on 18s. But you can acheive that like stated above with a 302 based motor as well as a 351. With a turbo the possibilities are endless. Determining your budget or atleast a ballpark figure would help your decision of 302/351 route. Its really up to you, because you can do it with either.
wannaboost94gt
Active Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2008
- Messages
- 646
- Reaction score
- 0
modo said:
Hence the not safe part at the end of the comment... NOT SAFE!!!! but people do it.
Similar threads
