what would you get?

98_MustangGT

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im looking into buying a shortblock, putting p&p pi heads, and a 2.1l kenne bell. my question is where is the best place to look for a shortblock that will hold about 600-650 hp. i do want one with forged internals.
 

MustangChris

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craigeslist.

1996-2004 mustangs
1994(??)-2004(??) crown victorias

id suggest getting a PI motor and do the swap. with the lower compression ratio you can run more boost...


edit: oh my mistake, i thought i read it taht you didnt want forged internals... i though you were gunna run like, 10 PSI. lol.

id check out http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/ and see what they got.
 

bobtsgt

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+2 for MMR if your looking for a complete shortblock. MMR is also good on internals if you build it yourself. Just bought some of their rods,Manley pistons, Melling pump and pick up for a nice price shipped to my door. I'm building a 600+ at the wheel turbo set up as we speak. Internals just arrived yesterday. That company will get my business again.
 
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98_MustangGT

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i did look at MMR. They seem to be the best for me right now since im definatley on a budget being a full time student. would all or most of my front accessories off my npi fit on one of their shortblocks with PI heads?
 

NERD

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Everything will fit, even the driver side PS/coil bracket.

You will need a dowel kit as well since they are new ford blocks.
 

ruler

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why not turbo it and just change rods and pistons. That should get you to transmission destruction axle ripping fun time and cost a little less.
 

DropTopPony

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MustangChris said:
DropTopPony said:
If i were buying a new ready to install shortblock it would be from Fox Lake. Ron is one of the nicest guys in the business and they do great work. Never heard a bad thing about them ever either.

http://www.foxlakeracing.com/modular.php

i can tell you some bad things about them. lol.

Like what? this would be personal experience?
 

MustangChris

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before i go bashing on a reputible company, I'm going to meat with my head-builder tomorrow and Ill double check on the company that messed his heads up.
 
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98_MustangGT

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ruler said:
why not turbo it and just change rods and pistons. That should get you to transmission destruction axle ripping fun time and cost a little less.

how much hp can i get without having to beef up my auto and replace my axles?
 

NERD

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98_MustangGT said:
ruler said:
why not turbo it and just change rods and pistons. That should get you to transmission destruction axle ripping fun time and cost a little less.

how much hp can i get without having to beef up my auto and replace my axles?

It's a matter of traction and supporting setup not Hp. I've seen stock axles last at 550 and running 10.90's, while I've also seen many many < 300rw break axles on hard launches.
 
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98_MustangGT

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well i dont plan on making very many track runs since this is my daily driver. i just wanna make it a more exciting car to drive and get some bite behind its bark....
 

NERD

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98_MustangGT said:
well i dont plan on making very many track runs since this is my daily driver. i just wanna make it a more exciting car to drive and get some bite behind its bark....

Stick to street radials and you'll be fine. I guess the other question is, what you realistically want to make for Hp. I never thought I wanted more the 300, then I realized it was cheaper to make 400; then if I was building my short block why not make 600. It adds up quick but the phrase, "Well I might as well" gets thrown around a lot.
 

MustangChris

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sxynerd said:
98_MustangGT said:
well i dont plan on making very many track runs since this is my daily driver. i just wanna make it a more exciting car to drive and get some bite behind its bark....

Stick to street radials and you'll be fine. I guess the other question is, what you realistically want to make for Hp. I never thought I wanted more the 300, then I realized it was cheaper to make 400; then if I was building my short block why not make 600. It adds up quick but the phrase, "Well I might as well" gets thrown around a lot.


lol +1... thats how my drivers side ball joint ended up costing me $2,000.00
 

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