4R70W questions...

JerZeyStangz

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What's up guys?!? For the veterans out there, can a stock 4R70W trans take the power of h/c/i car pushing over 400 crank with some lope. I did many google searches but answers are very sketch. Theres many things going through my head if the car will be jerky with cams, will the clutch bands hold the power etc. I really do not know. I'm wondering because I am holding off my stick swap in order to do the top end of my motor. ***I'm not building up the 4R70W***
 

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justinschmidt1

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What's up guys?!? For the veterans out there, can a stock 4R70W trans take the power of h/c/i car pushing over 400 crank with some lope. I did many google searches but answers are very sketch. Theres many things going through my head if the car will be jerky with cams, will the clutch bands hold the power etc. I really do not know. I'm wondering because I am holding off my stick swap in order to do the top end of my motor. ***I'm not building up the 4R70W***


With no problem at all if youve taken care of it, aka changed the fluid and keep the fluid cool.

A Jmodded Valvebody can also help increase the amount of power it will take.

The 4r70w is a strong trans but make sure you kick it out of Overdrive before you get on it. OD is a weak link.
 

justinschmidt1

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Personally, I think everyone should do a Jmod and add a cooler to the 4r70w just to keep the fluid cool and extend the life of the tranny.

Plus it will shift better/faster
 
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JerZeyStangz

JerZeyStangz

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Wise brethrens in here. Thanks for a the great responses! Will the stock stall be conflict? I saw something about the O/D band being the weak link so I'll definitely be aware of that. If I wanted to keep the trans in for another year or so, J-mod + trans cooler = good insurance?
 

MustangChris

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general automatic transmission question:

can you "over-cool" the fluid? There's this homo at the Colorado street races that has some lexus blah blah fag mobile (I really hate this guy, if you couldn't tell. lol)

Anyways, he has something like 4 coolers on his transmission (mainly because his transmission is just a Toyota street transmission he's had professionally built [3 or 4 times] to be a performance oriented transmission) and its piping hot coming out of the tranny and frigid going in.... it sounds almost dangerous to me, but what the **** do I know. lol.
 

330CubeGt

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The more stall you have the more cooler you want. The stall is a big factor in building heat. If your running a stock converter u will be less likely to over heat the tranny.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Done a bunch of research on this as I'm swapping to auto. 4r70w stock with a J-mod should be good for 500/500 at the wheels all day. Also realize they were updated in 98 and the 98s were the only years that will for sure have the VSS provision you need. The 99 and 00 transmissions still had the VSS port and its blocked off but AFIAK there is no 100% guarantee that the tailshaft in a 99-up trans will have a drive gear on it, the 98 will. Or you can just swap to an earlier year tailshaft and housing for $75 on ebay...

I'm swapping to the 4r75w but that is going to necessitate some extra work... namely a ECU/Engine harness swap and a 04 Computer.
 

justinschmidt1

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Wise brethrens in here. Thanks for a the great responses! Will the stock stall be conflict? I saw something about the O/D band being the weak link so I'll definitely be aware of that. If I wanted to keep the trans in for another year or so, J-mod + trans cooler = good insurance?

Yes, j mod + cooler are great insurance. Stock stall will be fine and will keep the fluid temps down actually.

general automatic transmission question:

can you "over-cool" the fluid? There's this homo at the Colorado street races that has some lexus blah blah fag mobile (I really hate this guy, if you couldn't tell. lol)

Anyways, he has something like 4 coolers on his transmission (mainly because his transmission is just a Toyota street transmission he's had professionally built [3 or 4 times] to be a performance oriented transmission) and its piping hot coming out of the tranny and frigid going in.... it sounds almost dangerous to me, but what the **** do I know. lol.

Yes, trans fluid has an operating range, it is possible to over cool it...theres a reason the factory tranny cooler is inside the radiater, it helps warm the fluid up to operating temperature faster.

My car wouldnt lock the converter in the winter for like 20 minutes because the fluid wasnt getting warm enough.

Typically operating temps should be somewhere between 150-200 degrees though and the low end of operating temp around 140-150.
 
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JerZeyStangz

JerZeyStangz

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Thanks for replies, I can't wait to put down like 320rwhp through the auto. As time goes by, the performance gap is getting worse and worse lol. A serious overhaul is pass do, I would love to make nice 11sec pass, and I will accomplish what I wanted to do N/A.
 

justinschmidt1

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Thanks for replies, I can't wait to put down like 320rwhp through the auto. As time goes by, the performance gap is getting worse and worse lol. A serious overhaul is pass do, I would love to make nice 11sec pass, and I will accomplish what I wanted to do N/A.


Idk what your plans are for a build but you really should consider a looser converter, ESPECIALLY if you're putting some bigger cams in that motor.

4.6s are dogs off the line man so its gonna be really hard to run good numbers with 2.0+ 60 foots.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Idk what your plans are for a build but you really should consider a looser converter, ESPECIALLY if you're putting some bigger cams in that motor.

4.6s are dogs off the line man so its gonna be really hard to run good numbers with 2.0+ 60 foots.

My 4.6 is pretty good off the line, feels a lot like my old 5.0 Cobra honestly. Agreed on the stall though. I found a PI Stallion 3500 rpm lockup converter for mine... Never driven a loose stall on the street so we'll see.

Highly suggest the OP do something similar.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 

justinschmidt1

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My 4.6 is pretty good off the line, feels a lot like my old 5.0 Cobra honestly. Agreed on the stall though. I found a PI Stallion 3500 rpm lockup converter for mine... Never driven a loose stall on the street so we'll see.

Highly suggest the OP do something similar.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2



Its the best. Feels like your spraying a 100 shot off the line all day lol
 
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JerZeyStangz

JerZeyStangz

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Idk what your plans are for a build but you really should consider a looser converter, ESPECIALLY if you're putting some bigger cams in that motor.

4.6s are dogs off the line man so its gonna be really hard to run good numbers with 2.0+ 60 foots.

By that time, I should have my T56 in. I have all the supporting hardware for it, just got tired of 230hp performance lol.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Not sure if the T-56 is really worth it at least IMO. You get more weight, no direct bolt in crossmember for our cars, expensive as fuk and you'll still lose to a modded automatic in a straight line race at a similar power level. Or even less... fun to see a car making less power with an auto win because it out 60'd and outshifted the 5 spd. You do get that extra .50 overdrive gear with the T-56 if you choose that ratio which is great for gas mileage I suppose... If you're gonna stick with a manual trans then just get the T45 built by thet45source. It'll hold as much power as the Magnum will, cost less than half, bolt right back into place (with a 26 spline clutch upgrade if you do the 26 spline input shaft upgrade and you should) and its lighter.

I can't wait to swap to the j-modded auto and PI Stallion converter. Going to have to invest in some ET streets or some better DRs than the 555s I have on there right now even with my current mods that stall is going to blow the tires off every time I floor it. I also can't want to chirp every gear without having to worry about it and launch better than I ever dreamed of before. Then comes the turbo kit next winter which is another reason I'm going auto. Turbos/autos=peas/carrots.
 
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JerZeyStangz

JerZeyStangz

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Not sure if the T-56 is really worth it at least IMO. You get more weight, no direct bolt in crossmember for our cars, expensive as fuk and you'll still lose to a modded automatic in a straight line race at a similar power level. Or even less... fun to see a car making less power with an auto win because it out 60'd and outshifted the 5 spd. You do get that extra .50 overdrive gear with the T-56 if you choose that ratio which is great for gas mileage I suppose... If you're gonna stick with a manual trans then just get the T45 built by thet45source. It'll hold as much power as the Magnum will, cost less than half, bolt right back into place (with a 26 spline clutch upgrade if you do the 26 spline input shaft upgrade and you should) and its lighter.

I can't wait to swap to the j-modded auto and PI Stallion converter. Going to have to invest in some ET streets or some better DRs than the 555s I have on there right now even with my current mods that stall is going to blow the tires off every time I floor it. I also can't want to chirp every gear without having to worry about it and launch better than I ever dreamed of before. Then comes the turbo kit next winter which is another reason I'm going auto. Turbos/autos=peas/carrots.

I totally understand where your coming from, I am not really into the drag scene to much. I just want a all around fun car. The magnum is the king T56, and has many capabilities, they are almost indestructible. The worse I've seen was on modularfords when someone destroyed the input 26 spline shaft on the transmission. I really do not want to be the fastest out there, but just have a potent setup that can hold its own for 90% of whats out there on the street.

A built and stalled auto can go faster than any stick I ever seen, but its more about pride for that third pedal more than anything. I guess if I get tired of it, I'll send my 4R70W to lentech and get it built (lol) if I ever get super serious about have really really fast 2v, but for now I just want to enjoy riding those gears out. I had this platform for almost 8 years with barely any mods, I got made fun of my auto all the time, it kind of messed me up lol, but I'll still be first to defend how potent a built auto can be.

Do you know for sure that T56 magnum is heavier than T45?
 

justinschmidt1

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I totally understand where your coming from, I am not really into the drag scene to much. I just want a all around fun car. The magnum is the king T56, and has many capabilities, they are almost indestructible. The worse I've seen was on modularfords when someone destroyed the input 26 spline shaft on the transmission. I really do not want to be the fastest out there, but just have a potent setup that can hold its own for 90% of whats out there on the street.

A built and stalled auto can go faster than any stick I ever seen, but its more about pride for that third pedal more than anything. I guess if I get tired of it, I'll send my 4R70W to lentech and get it built (lol) if I ever get super serious about have really really fast 2v, but for now I just want to enjoy riding those gears out. I had this platform for almost 8 years with barely any mods, I got made fun of my auto all the time, it kind of messed me up lol, but I'll still be first to defend how potent a built auto can be.

Do you know for sure that T56 magnum is heavier than T45?

The t56 is heavier...but its like 30-40 lbs at the very very most so who cares. lol
 
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