I am planning on building a 95 GT for the drag strip while still being street able. The only thing that I have not decided on is the motor. I am doing suspension, 4.10 gears, shift kit, 2400 or 2800 stall, MT drag radials and stripping the interior. I am debating on just a top end build with AFR heads or if I should stroke it while I already have the motor apart especially since I am buying a high mileage SN95. Any suggestions for the best option for a poor college kid who wants to run 12's?
5.0 engine build. Turbo? N/A?
- Thread starter zacmac66
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Nitrous. Done and done.
I would, but I don't want to fill up my bottle every time I go to the track. Since I go racing about every weekend, I would spend a lot on nitrous and at that point I would get better money with boost and it would always be there.
Turbo is going to be expensive and difficult to get right without a lot of tinkering. Takes away from drivability a little, I love turbo cars but there's always that extra little bit of stuff going on that makes me nervous for something that's being driven a lot. Still do able but the most involved.
Supercharger is going to be easier on the wallet than a turbo and can give similar gains except the turbo will be easier to turn up as you move to be quicker. Vortech kits are fairly simple in comparison to a turbo setup and the only real concern is belt slippage once you start building a good bit of boost.
My recommendation for nitrous is simply because its a bolt-on and go affair and can give you the power you need and drive like stock when not on the juice.
N/A will be the easiest to throw together but an aggressive cam for more power leads to worse drivability so there's a trade off there.
What's your budget?
Supercharger is going to be easier on the wallet than a turbo and can give similar gains except the turbo will be easier to turn up as you move to be quicker. Vortech kits are fairly simple in comparison to a turbo setup and the only real concern is belt slippage once you start building a good bit of boost.
My recommendation for nitrous is simply because its a bolt-on and go affair and can give you the power you need and drive like stock when not on the juice.
N/A will be the easiest to throw together but an aggressive cam for more power leads to worse drivability so there's a trade off there.
What's your budget?
not a limited budget but then again not willing to sacrifice power and reliability because I wanted to save a couple dollars. I work when I am not at school and am selling my 1966 Mustang so I have the money to do the build right, I just don't want to spend it all and realize I didn't do what I want with the car because I was impatient. I have to pass California smog which is why I am limited with so much and have to watch my budget incase it doesn't pass smog and I need a catalytic converter or something stupid like that. Strongly considering Nitrous. How long would a bottle last and how much is a normal refill?
PM-Performance
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Being said. . . Poor college kid on a budget. . . .Nitrous all the way. If you only plan to use it for the track its easy. If you want to run on the streets and always be ready to spray, then nitrous gets expensive and is a pain in the ass. At the track, you just torch the bottle and run
Yep, I think the plan will be to throw on nitrous and keep the nitrous for the track since the car will mostly be driven to the track and back. On the 5.0 with a forged bottom end and complete top end build (basically just a stock block) what shot would you say is safe to run? 150??
ranger56528
Active Member
High mileage engine and not doing the lower end but putting heads on and a turbo could be a good recipe for disaster,you might be ok for awhile if you stay around 6 pounds but depending on how wore out the lower end is it might be too much if you run it hard,I put a turbo on a 95GT with 188k but I have also built a engine to put in after I get it dyno'd and ran a bit but for now I'm going to take it easy with this old 188k engine and do a swap out this fall.
I ran into a start issue and I also had a new Monster trans and 2300-2800 convert put in a few weeks ago but ended up having some heart issues so now my mech just got back on the no crank issue,had him stop working on it while I figured out my heart issue being I can't afford working on two motors(car and heart).
If you stay around 6-8 pound on a turbo you should be fine for now but get a good chip like a Moates and a good software and then take it to a reputable dyno shop and have fun but remember the lower end is your weakest spot.
There is a lot more to doing a turbo but this was just a short rundown,nitro might be better in the short run for some but it all ends up to how much the wallet can afford.
I ran into a start issue and I also had a new Monster trans and 2300-2800 convert put in a few weeks ago but ended up having some heart issues so now my mech just got back on the no crank issue,had him stop working on it while I figured out my heart issue being I can't afford working on two motors(car and heart).
If you stay around 6-8 pound on a turbo you should be fine for now but get a good chip like a Moates and a good software and then take it to a reputable dyno shop and have fun but remember the lower end is your weakest spot.
There is a lot more to doing a turbo but this was just a short rundown,nitro might be better in the short run for some but it all ends up to how much the wallet can afford.
