500hp reliably, help me build it...

Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by 1bad95, Jul 4, 2014.

  1. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    OK guys I a total noob to modulars and not too knowledgable with motor internals but pretty mechanically inclined. Hoping by end of the year to have the saleen in good running condition and be able to start buying and stockpiling parts for the motor. Looking to be in the area of 500rwhp. I'm not against a centri charger, really want to have a set of cams with some lift for that nice idle.
    Motor in car is bone stock with pi intake I believe (has aluminum crossover) and just under 130k miles and t45 trans.

    Not looking to go broke on the build but don't want to cut and corners either.

    Thanks guys!

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  2. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Coyote swap
     
  3. Musturd

    Musturd Legend

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    5.0 stroker with forged rods and pistons . Some blower grind cams with edelbrock intake and a intercooled vortech at 15lbs and you'll be just fine and dandy .
     
  4. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    As far as heads go, stock npi heads? Also use stock block or go with newer block?


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  5. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Newer block.

    Want to run e85?
     
  6. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    No e85, wanna stick with 93. Also what year blocks should I hunt for? 99-04?


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  7. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Well I know for a fact pre99 blocks will need matching work for a forged crank. I do not know when they started matching the blocks for forged cranks or if it just a cobra thing.

    No e85 get pi heads....
     
  8. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    So might be a good idea to maybe buy a newer pi motor? Have the block needed and heads. With any luck just Cleanup the heads and swap springs if needed for the cams

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  9. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Cheapest route

    Stock crank
    Stock block
    Boss rods 180w/bearings
    Probe pistons with some dish~500
    Rings
    Main bearings
    ARP rod bolts
    ARP mains studs jack screws
    ARP head studs
    Stock pi heads
    MHS valve springs
    Cms or MHS blower cams
    Stock intake
    A nice blower
     
  10. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry for what could be stupid questions, so if I went that route I could use my stock 98 block correct and 98 crank? So essentially just like a basic bottom end rebuild or refresh with the new rods and pistons?

    I know Im way early in trying to nail down specifics, but I know if I don't get a solid game plan that I will never do it. Once I get a plan I can work on developing a parts list and costs and start buying parts

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  11. 97stanger

    97stanger Legend

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    Stock block bored as necessary, cobra crank, forged H beams, Forged pistons, ARP hardware, ported PI heads, custom blower cams, Edelbrock manifold, Any centri blower that is efficient enough to push 15+ psi, intercooler, and appropriate fuel and spark.
     
  12. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Yes it would be a bottom end freshen up of sorts.
     
  13. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    Can't wait to hit some meets again and pick some of yalls brains. I wish I had more motor knowledge.

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  14. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    Another quick question. Been doing some reading, if I buy the charger first to run on the car while acquiring parts for the motor, I am buying one for 96-98. If happen to pick up a 03-04 pi motor to use to build I would just have to swap on my stock npi timing cover to the new motor and the charger would bolt right back up?

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  15. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    Yes

    I have my 96 timing cover on an 01 motor..... only thing is don't buy a Windsor......

    Romeo to romeo
    Windsor to windsor
     
  16. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    ok sounds good! Thanks!

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  17. BigBore96

    BigBore96 Active Member

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    There are a couple ways of doing something like this. Also there are ways you can save money by not going overboard and still get the power you want and the reliability you need.

    Example, switching to a forged crank is definitely stronger, but you honestly won't need it. The cast crank is more than enough for what you want and you already have one. Which saves money. Even more would be saved if you needed your block machined to clear the cobra counter weights.

    One other thing, don't go for a cam for the sound. Choose one that will perform how you want. Sound is 1 thing, but wasting money on something because it sounds cooler than a better performing cam is something a bowtie would do.
     
  18. 97stanger

    97stanger Legend

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    And with cams, if you went with a blower grind it won't be all that radical compared to a n/a grind
     
  19. 1bad95

    1bad95 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys for the info! Definitely wouldn't buy cams solely on the idea of wanting sound. Just am hoping to find a set of blower cams that at least lumps it up some.

    Definitely thinking the way to go is going to be new rods/pistons and ARP hardware for the short block

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  20. sneaky98gt

    sneaky98gt Active Member

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    A forged crank is not needed for 500 rwhp. ARP main bolts, rod bolts, or head bolts are not needed for 500 rwhp. Aftermarket valve springs are not needed for 500 rwhp (depending on what cam you run).

    The cheapest way to do it from your setup right now:
    -Stock crank and block
    -2012 Boss 302 rods (or 03/04 Cobra rods if you can find them cheap)
    -03/04 Cobra pistons, or a cheap aftermarket set
    -King OE replacement rod and main bearings
    -Total Seal rings
    -OEM main and head bolts (side bolts are reusable, and rod bolts are included with Boss 302 rods)
    -PI heads
    -MHS Stage 1 PI blower cams
    -Nice blower of your choice (2.3 TVS, 2.6 Kenne Bell, D1SC, T-trim, etc.), intercooled of course

    That should put you pretty close. You might could get away with stock cams depending on how much boost you're willing to push. But as the boost goes up, so too does the load on the valve springs, head gaskets, head bolts, and intake manifold. So you've just got to be more careful there if you're going big boost (15+ pounds). There’s other ways of doing it (higher RPM stroker with nitrous, or a turbo setup, etc.), but none of them as cheap as above. Of course, there’s a few other things involved as well.

    Machine work. Hone and clean at a minimum. Only bore if it’s required. Probably resurface the heads while you’re at it. Contrary to what a lot of people will tell you, balancing the rotating assembly is not required so long as you are using a matching set of pistons and a matching set of rods. I know of a lot of very fast cars around my area running just fine with an “unbalanced†rotating assembly. But if it makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside, go for it.

    Drivetrain. If it’s an auto car, you’ll need a converter, trans cooler, and J-mod at a minimum. A mild build is best. With a manual car, a clutch will be required if you’re going to be driving it hard at all. And depending on how hard you drive it, a set of 31 spline axles will probably be needed as well.

    Fuel system. You’ll need injectors. 39 pounders will be fairly close to maxed out at 500 rwhp. 60 pounders would be better. At least a 90 mm Lightning MAF will be needed. And of course the fuel pump. Having a 98 myself, here’s the way I’d do it: get a 97-down tank, filler neck, sending unit, and fuel pump bracket from a junkyard. Then get an AEM 320 or Walbro 405 pump, and run it all straight return style. You’ll be good to go for way over 500 rwhp with those pump and tank setups.