A-arm bushing

bonestock3.8DTH · May 4, 2011

Me and my step dad are going to replace my a-arm bushing next weekend and I was wondering if there is any problems yall have had changing them or if yall have any secrets on changing them, thanks!

And the reason why we are changing them is because the front end of my car squeaks like an old bed and it drives me FREAKING CRAZY because when I drive by people stare at my car not because it looks good but because it sounds like some old busted car is driving by. We've looked/listened to it and it seems to be coming from the a-arm bushing.

MustangChris · May 4, 2011

i just took mine to a shop. they pressed out old, put in new. i suggest using some bushing lubricant before install, to keep moisture, dirt, and contaminants out of the pores of the bushing, and to help reduce friction on the bushing's surface.

bonestock3.8DTH · May 5, 2011

MustangChris said:
i just took mine to a shop. they pressed out old, put in new. i suggest using some bushing lubricant before install, to keep moisture, dirt, and contaminants out of the pores of the bushing, and to help reduce friction on the bushing's surface.

Yeah taking my car to the shop isnt a choice for me the funding just isnt there for that, but thanks for the advice man! Do you have an idea of how hard it will be?

Black Ice · May 5, 2011

You don't need to take the whole car to the shop just the a arms they will press out the old ones and press the new one's in.

Matt94GT · May 5, 2011

it wont be easy to do from home without the right tools.

bonestock3.8DTH · May 7, 2011

Oh, alright well thanks guys.

Goindeafonmtx · May 8, 2011

Rent a ball joint press from Autozone.

red95r · May 9, 2011

Freez, heat and oil, or press.

bonestock3.8DTH · May 9, 2011

Im pretty sure we're just going to rent the ball joint press from advanced auto, but I still have to read up on it in my hanyes manual.

Blind · May 9, 2011

drilling the rubber part with a bunch of small holes will help to get it out, you can make your own press with a long bolt and a pair of sockets that will drive the old bushing out and pull the new bushing in.

Bullitt5339 · May 9, 2011

It depends on which ones you get.

Mine had new shells, my buddy's didn't. Mine were a complete PITA, his were a piece of cake.

It was a pretty annoying job getting the shells pressed out and getting the new ones pressed in. I don't think I could have done it without a press, to be honest. And then you have to make sure that you get them spaced correctly, or else the control arm won't bolt back in. They don't press all the way in, you have to measure how much the factory ones are in there.

On his, you drilled out the old rubber, burnt the residual rubber out with a torch and then pressed the new rubber in the shells. We used a piece of allthread, 2 large fender washers and a couple nuts and just pulled them in.

If I had to do it again, I'd definitely use the rubber inserts only.

bonestock3.8DTH · May 9, 2011

Me and step dad just a little researh and we may end up buying a set of tublar a arms with all the bushings and new ball joints installed. Just another thought he had.

These are the ones we're thinking about.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRN-GMTA9498NS/

Blind · May 9, 2011

do you have a coil over kit? Those a-arms do not have a spring perch integrated so they'd require them.

bonestock3.8DTH · May 9, 2011

Blind said:
do you have a coil over kit? Those a-arms do not have a spring perch integrated so they'd require them.

I thought somthing looked like it was missing.. and no.. so thanks for bringing that to my attention!

bonestock3.8DTH · May 9, 2011

Where else could I find lower a arms with all the bushings and ball joints installed for cheapish?

ReplicaR · May 9, 2011

Quick question to throw into the mix. How do you know that it's the control arm bushings and not sway bar bushings? Have you tried unbolting the sway bar and seeing if the noise is still there?

bonestock3.8DTH · May 23, 2011

ReplicaR said:
Quick question to throw into the mix. How do you know that it's the control arm bushings and not sway bar bushings? Have you tried unbolting the sway bar and seeing if the noise is still there?

And well the reason why we think its the A-Arm bushings because we tried to pin point the sqeak and it definetly sounds like it is coming from the A-Arms but Ill tell my step dad we should check that also thanks for bringing that to my attention. But do you know of any A-Arm kits for springs? Because the easiest way it looks like doing it is just replaceing the hole shibang the ball joints a-arms the bushings and all that stuff, it may be more expensive but it'll be a lot easier and quicker to do.

Bullitt5339 · May 23, 2011

Buy the Termi A-Arms if you go that way. They have better bushings and balljoints than the GT, and when put on a 96-98, improve the steering geometry of the suspension.

bonestock3.8DTH · May 23, 2011

Bullitt5339 said:
Buy the Termi A-Arms if you go that way. They have better bushings and balljoints than the GT, and when put on a 96-98, improve the steering geometry of the suspension.

So whats the difference between them other then the better bushings and balljoints?

Blind · May 23, 2011

bonestock3.8DTH said:
Bullitt5339 said:

Buy the Termi A-Arms if you go that way. They have better bushings and balljoints than the GT, and when put on a 96-98, improve the steering geometry of the suspension.

Click to expand...

So whats the difference between them other then the better bushings and balljoints?

ball joint location is moved forward in the wheel wells compared to v6/gt a-arms, and the stamping of the arm is revised such that the larger 275/40R17 and 17x9 wheels/tires of the terminators can clear without rubbing at full lock.